Chainsaw mill plans

[gr8scott72]

Has anyone here ever used or heard of this plan:

http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/index.html

 

[bayard]

mill

looks interesting.kenny

 

[mtngun]

Seems like there is a guy on the "other" milling forum who built one. He is pretty happy with it except he had to strengthen the bed.

 

[MotorSeven]

Scott, it looks like a well thought out mill. But.....having owned a very well thought out CSM(I could cut out to 28' w/an 066), I have to say just spar the work & energy and buy a good quality used band mill. CSM's are great as a portable unit. Once they become stationary or trailered, the benefits dimish.
Don't get me wrong, I love my chainsaws( I have 9), but when it comes to milling up a log, I also love my Woodmizer LT15.

RD

 

[gr8scott72]

Scott, it looks like a well thought out mill. But.....having owned a very well thought out CSM(I could cut out to 28' w/an 066), I have to say just spar the work & energy and buy a good quality used band mill. CSM's are great as a portable unit. Once they become stationary or trailered, the benefits dimish.
Don't get me wrong, I love my chainsaws( I have 9), but when it comes to milling up a log, I also love my Woodmizer LT15.

RD

Two things that interest me over a LT15. One is price. Looks like I could build it for under $1000. Two is that I very often get logs that are over 24" in diameter and would love to be able to do something with them other than just throw them on the burn pile.

So what could I realistically look to spend on a good, used LT15?

 

[MotorSeven]

I have 100 ac of trees.....very few over 28"(logged in th elate 90's before I bought it).
That's 1K but you have to add the milling saw to the mix...another grand at least. If you are milling really big wood, yes a CSM is a cost effective system. It is however slow not only in milling but in prep....getting that milling chain sharp requires some attention to detail. For me, my sharpening technique was fine for cross cutting....not woth a hoot for milling. It's something I am still working on and have more to learn.
Do you have a way to move the logs around(tractor/loader etc)? I have a tractor w/pallet forks....it's a godsend. A portable CSM gets taken to the log, which is a big plus if you don't have heavy eqipment.
I paid 4,500 for a lighty used LT-15 last summer. Look around, a Norwood 2000 is a great mill....there are others. Check out the Forestryfourm, as they usually have some smaller mills in their classifides. The sawmill exchange has some decent deals from time to time.

RD

 

[gr8scott72]

I have 100 ac of trees.....very few over 28"(logged in th elate 90's before I bought it).
That's 1K but you have to add the milling saw to the mix...another grand at least. If you are milling really big wood, yes a CSM is a cost effective system. It is however slow not only in milling but in prep....getting that milling chain sharp requires some attention to detail. For me, my sharpening technique was fine for cross cutting....not woth a hoot for milling. It's something I am still working on and have more to learn.
Do you have a way to move the logs around(tractor/loader etc)? I have a tractor w/pallet forks....it's a godsend. A portable CSM gets taken to the log, which is a big plus if you don't have heavy eqipment.
I paid 4,500 for a lighty used LT-15 last summer. Look around, a Norwood 2000 is a great mill....there are others. Check out the Forestryfourm, as they usually have some smaller mills in their classifides. The sawmill exchange has some decent deals from time to time.

RD

I already have the saw for the CSM.

I've been milling big stuff right now (last cut was 51" across). I think I'm ok at sharpening my chains as they seem to cut alot faster after I sharpen them.

I have this little thing to help moving logs:

 

[TraditionalTool]

I have this little thing to help moving logs:

How much will those little guys lift?

I have this little guy, which lifts 6,000 lbs. He's been invaluable in regard to moving logs around. I just need a small bandmill and I'll be set.

IMO, a chainsaw mill is not worth bothering with if you have a means to lift logs. My $0.02...

 

[gr8scott72]

How much will those little guys lift?

I have this little guy, which lifts 6,000 lbs. He's been invaluable in regard to moving logs around. I just need a small bandmill and I'll be set.

IMO, a chainsaw mill is not worth bothering with if you have a means to lift logs. My $0.02...

It'll only lift about 1,500 lbs but it's been enough so far.

I hear what y'all are saying about csm vs. bandmill but even a used small bandmill is almost 5 times as much as what I think I could build that csm for. I could cut alot of boards with that before I ever had $5,000 to drop on a bandmill.

 

[TraditionalTool]

It'll only lift about 1,500 lbs but it's been enough so far.

Ah, that's why my mentor talked me out of one of those...my logs weigh about 3,000-4,000 lbs. The other factor is lifting them up 12 feet to stack. The forklift I got will lift 15 ft.

I hear what y'all are saying about csm vs. bandmill but even a used small bandmill is almost 5 times as much as what I think I could build that csm for. I could cut alot of boards with that before I ever had $5,000 to drop on a bandmill.

That's not really comparing apples to apples though, you can build a bandmill also...one of the big advantages of a CS mill is that they are the most portable, and in cases where you need to drag it to the log to mill, they can't be beat.

In the case where you have a way to lift the logs and move them around, the bandmill is just a better option. You can get used bandmills for about $3500 for a decent one, IMO. They just aren't plentiful.

1500 lbs. is a bit limited though, since if you figure a 36" trunk of walnut is about 400-450 lbs. per foot, you'd be lucky to lift a 4 ft section. Even mine is limited for hardwood like that, but I could get a 12'-15' section on my forklift.

I'm working mostly with eastern white pine, and figure my 32' long logs weigh about 4,000 lbs. I have a 28' cant for my beam joist which is 12"x14" and I figure it must weigh about 4,000 lbs. also. The rest of my logs are milled to 8" thick.

I figure a small bandmill will pay for itself for the wood I need to complete the inside. When I was milling the logs down to build with, some of the boards were 24" wide, damn that stuff is beautiful, I wish I could have had most space on the trailer to ship some of it out west...I'll find a bandmill in time though which I'll be able to afford, I'm pretty sure.

 

[TraditionalTool]

I hear what y'all are saying about csm vs. bandmill but even a used small bandmill is almost 5 times as much as what I think I could build that csm for. I could cut alot of boards with that before I ever had $5,000 to drop on a bandmill.

Scott,

One thing you might consider if your going to build your own is that you can get a kit to build a bandmill, less the motor, from Linn in various stages of kits. Would cost you just a tad more, and you would still need to get a motor, but you'd have a bandmill.

 

[gemniii]

There seems to be a lot of ignorance of previous threads.
There's at least three threads of people previously building CSM's almost exacly like the guy's $160 plans.

for small bandsaw mill:
There's my thread on the Harbor Freight/Hudon/Hud-Son mill which will handle a 16" cant for about $2.2K w/ engine NEW.

Then there's the NEW big name small mills - woodmizer, Hud-Son, Norwood that start at $3K w/ support.

If you've got the skill, equipment and space it seems the ideal would be to build one of these and adapt the cage so you could either put on a big bar CSM or a bandsaw head, such as the Linn.

 

[Brmorgan]

Has anyone here ever used or heard of this plan:

http://www.procutportablesawmills.com/index.html

Those saws are built in a city about 2.5 hours' drive north of where I'm at. I've been meaning to go check them out; only problem is that's about the only reason I have to make the drive so I've never gotten around to it yet. But if I end up there for some other reason I'll be dropping in.

 

[MotorSeven]

Scott, if your picking on 51 inch diameters on a regular basis, I'd stick with a CSM. But, building a CSM trac/rail system to hold that big of a log is gonna be a job. I'd go the BobL route & stay portable........stick & move!
My tractor FEL can lift 2,800 & a 20' Ash that was about 18" on the butt end was all it could handle.

RD

 

[TreeWinder]

Scott,

I made mine last year, based on "ProCut" design. I did change a couple of things but used his recommendations for the frame. Nothing light about it for a CSM, side rails are 3"x5", cross members 4" channel. Here's a pic when I got the frame welded up.

 

[Vern]

I bought the plans and built this mill about 6 years ago.(procut) I think the plans were about 120.00. Built a nice barn (1800 sq ft ) with it ,worked real nice.1200.00 in steel and parts + axle . Put it together in about a week. sold it last year for what I had in it. Slow cutting but got the job done. It`s all I could afford at the time.
If I had it to do over I would have went for a small band saw .any band saw is faster than a chain saw.
4 years ago I bought a Cooks MP 32 power up and down and power feed. If you can in my opinion try to get into a small band saw alot less work.

 

[yukon7]

I also bought the plans and built the mill I believe about 8 years ago. Built a shop, couple of sheds, 2 decks and in the process of cutting for a cabin. I have modified it several times, the carriage is totally different now. It is a little slow although the cutting is only about 20% of my time the rest is log & lumber handling and clean up. I have some pictures I will try to dig up.
I am satisfied with it as it has done everything I needed. It is a good starting point for a economical sawmill.

Jon

 

[gr8scott72]

I also bought the plans and built the mill I believe about 8 years ago. Built a shop, couple of sheds, 2 decks and in the process of cutting for a cabin. I have modified it several times, the carriage is totally different now. It is a little slow although the cutting is only about 20% of my time the rest is log & lumber handling and clean up. I have some pictures I will try to dig up.
I am satisfied with it as it has done everything I needed. It is a good starting point for a economical sawmill.

Jon

This is the whole reason I am looking at it with interest.

 

[Vern]

I had the metal shop where I bought my steel, cut all the steel to the right lengths. you pay a little extra maybe 25 cents a cut .Was worth it ,no grinding and all that cutting on my band saw.
nice if you have a flat area to do lay out...................can you weld a little ?

 

[gr8scott72]

I had the metal shop where I bought my steel, cut all the steel to the right lengths. you pay a little extra maybe 25 cents a cut .Was worth it ,no grinding and all that cutting on my band saw.
nice if you have a flat area to do lay out...................can you weld a little ?

Nope. But want to learn.