Logosol F2 CHAINSAW MILL

[Skipper_T]

Just bought this mill slightly used -- looking forward to milking our first boards some time soon!

Anyone have any tips or set up tricks for this portable chainsaw mill?

I have an over kill 36" bar that I prolly need to drop down to a 24" for milling on this mill? Does this sound right?

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

I have an over kill 36" bar that I prolly need to drop down to a 24" for milling on this mill? Does this sound right?

Is end of the bar supported on it or is it open ended? Definitely drop down to min width bar if it doesn't have the end support. What saw are you going to run on it? I don't trust my open ended small log Granberg mill to stay straight on the cut beyond 16" or so. F2 seems a great rig for dimensional lumber milling up to 12" widths, not as practical a slab rig. They've gone toward 3/8" lo pro bars chains and sprockets a lot for Logosols in Europe cause it makes most sense for lumber milling, like this setup - https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/prod...e-links-read-and-check-description-carefully/
but Logosol US doesn't sell any of the lo pro gear nor does anyone else here so I've ordered all my stuff from the UK so far. Smoother cut, less waste making lumber. Gets here in less than a week usually with free shipping and no tax so not much different than ordering inside the US. What part of Florida you in? I grew up in Stuart.

 

[Skipper_T]

Hey-- thanks for the response, I ordered the Bar Nose/Top Steering for it yesterday for more stable and accurate cuts.

My Saw:
I planned to use my HUSQVARNA 592 XP to mill wood. It came stock with a 36" "X-Tough Light bar".

Honestly-- I would appreciate recommendations on setting up my husky to mill. I was thinking a 24" bar would do the trick? So Husky or Oregon doesn't make a Lo Pro milling bar for this set up?

We are up in the Northeastern part of Florida, along the St Johns river. Palatka, Florida. I know Stuart-- beautiful town and beaches there, and great sailing community.

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

Hey-- thanks for the response, I ordered the Bar Nose/Top Steering for it yesterday for more stable and accurate cuts.

My Saw:
I planned to use my HUSQVARNA 592 XP to mill wood. It came stock with a 36" "X-Tough Light bar".

Honestly-- I would appreciate recommendations on setting up my husky to mill. I was thinking a 24" bar would do the trick? So Husky or Oregon doesn't make a Lo Pro milling bar for this set up?

We are up in the Northeastern part of Florida, along the St Johns river. Palatka, Florida. I know Stuart-- beautiful town and beaches there, and great sailing community.

Ah, I know Palatka. Pretty part of the St Johns there, I did a little kayak trip there once. Net some nice shrimp right off of docks there at times. You've got all the power you need to run any kind of 24" bar without blinking w that 592xp, so you could run regular 3/8 fine but I think you'd get better results with .325 .050 chain. I'm sure Oregon or Husky makes one, but finding the right one w the mount for your saw that's solid steel instead of laminated in that size isn't as easy as it could be. If you want to keep it simple and not have to change out your drive sprocket, probably best to stick w 3/8" that your saw came with so you can switch back to your 36" bar for other sawing.

Oregon 240RNDD009 Powercut bar is a solid body 24" bar for your saw, 3/8 .050. Then you need 84dl ripping chain in 3/8 .050 and you're set to go. Can get both from a ton of different places. There's off brand ripping chain available from Archer and Forester around $26.95 for a loop up to Oregon 72RD084G chain for $50-ish a loop (though Amazon has it for $39).

That UK site I mentioned has become the dominant milling supply place to all of the UK and Europe because they went to the effort of being milling specific, creating their own in house brand of mills and chain and some bars (Panther brand), carrying Stihl and all the other ripping chain brands, partnering with GB which makes outstanding bars to supply the entire line of GB bars from lo pro to .404, and supplying the rare lo pro drive sprockets for 60+cc saws which can't be found in the US except by special order from an obscure timber products company in Washington state. Most importantly, they matched everything up in ready to go packages. A few online shops are doing milling packages in the US now, but mostly for big bar milling setups. So it's still unnecessarily confusing to figure out the best milling setup for something like a Logosol in the US. And lo pro simply isn't available - GB (Aussie company) is the only company in the world to bother making lo pro bars over 20" aside from the high priced Cannon Super Mini ones.

 

[Skipper_T]

Ah, I know Palatka. Pretty part of the St Johns there, I did a little kayak trip there once. Net some nice shrimp right off of docks there at times. You've got all the power you need to run any kind of 24" bar without blinking w that 592xp, so you could run regular 3/8 fine but I think you'd get better results with .325 .050 chain. I'm sure Oregon or Husky makes one, but finding the right one w the mount for your saw that's solid steel instead of laminated in that size isn't as easy as it could be. If you want to keep it simple and not have to change out your drive sprocket, probably best to stick w 3/8" that your saw came with so you can switch back to your 36" bar for other sawing.

Oregon 240RNDD009 Powercut bar is a solid body 24" bar for your saw, 3/8 .050. Then you need 84dl ripping chain in 3/8 .050 and you're set to go. Can get both from a ton of different places. There's off brand ripping chain available from Archer and Forester around $26.95 for a loop up to Oregon 72RD084G chain for $50-ish a loop (though Amazon has it for $39).

That UK site I mentioned has become the dominant milling supply place to all of the UK and Europe because they went to the effort of being milling specific, creating their own in house brand of mills and chain and some bars (Panther brand), carrying Stihl and all the other ripping chain brands, partnering with GB which makes outstanding bars to supply the entire line of GB bars from lo pro to .404, and supplying the rare lo pro drive sprockets for 60+cc saws which can't be found in the US except by special order from an obscure timber products company in Washington state. Most importantly, they matched everything up in ready to go packages. A few online shops are doing milling packages in the US now, but mostly for big bar milling setups. So it's still unnecessarily confusing to figure out the best milling setup for something like a Logosol in the US. And lo pro simply isn't available - GB (Aussie company) is the only company in the world to bother making lo pro bars over 20" aside from the high priced Cannon Super Mini ones.

So you would recommend an Oregon Bar over a Husqvarna 24 in. Bar Lam Clam Chainsaw Guide Bar, 84 Link? I am interested in knowing why the Oregon bar over the husky for milling?

Oregon 72RD084G:
So this did not pull up a chain length... But I read online its for 24/25" bars. Is it normal that ripping chains are named differently from other chains?

Thank you for taking the time to help me get set up!! Truly-- appreciate the notes here, and your comments. I have the chain and new bar on order now.

Quick last Q: is it advisable to use the 24" bar with a normal cutting Skip-Chain for bucking firewood? Or should this bar be put aside only for milling so I don't FUBAR and cause unnecessary ware and tare? Thoughts?

 

[Coralillo Lo Pro]

So you would recommend an Oregon Bar over a Husqvarna 24 in. Bar Lam Clam Chainsaw Guide Bar, 84 Link? I am interested in knowing why the Oregon bar over the husky for milling?

The Husqvarna bar is a laminated steel bar I believe (most 24" and under are) which there's nothing wrong with, but I think it's a better idea to use solid body bars for milling. It's a must when using unsupported outer end systems, but even with you getting the outer support for the F2 for your bar, I'd still run solid body single piece bars.

72RD is Oregon's 3/8 .050 ripping chain code designation. 084 is the number of drive links that correspond to the 24/25" bar. Not sure what the G stands for. If you want more about chain and bar codes than you ever need to know, this is a useful page from Frawley's Saw Shop. https://www.frawleyssawshop.com/chain-codes.html

I use my same bars for everything. Not a problem. Just take good care of them and dress them regularly. As long as you don't run dull chains, you shouldn't build up lips on the rails much. But it will happen over time. My first bar I milled with a lot, a big 42" .404 bar, I had to file the outer lips of the rail groove flat all the time because I ran dull chains way too often. But my lo pro chains which cut easy and I keep the chains sharp, I haven't had the rails deform at all yet.