Chainsaw Mill !

[Newfie]

well, the description of his mill explains why your lumber isn't square. He has no way to insure a square cant. This guy is gonna kill himself one of these days. He's gonna have a log get loose and bind up the blade and tear the whole thing apart.

 

[clyde]

bman I think the small mill with a little smaller saw is exactly what you are looking for. Like thompson 1600 said, you have to be aware of bar flex on the alaskan, but it is not to hard to master. Much easier and probably MORE accurate than a large mill that must be balanced on a small cant. I buy and use GB mills now. The mill clamps onto the saw at the bar mounting studs, and the bar is not clamped.
You can't buy a "small mill" like the grandberg. I buy double ended mills and split them in half. I then use my own excrusions to make two small mills that are stronger and more stable than the grandberg. They also adjust much easier.

 

[clyde]

pyro..... the small mill would work fine but you lose some bar length with the mill. you will lose about 3" off of you 16". The widest you could mill in one pass would be about 13".

 

[pyromaniac guy]

pyro..... the small mill would work fine but you lose some bar length with the mill. you will lose about 3" off of you 16". The widest you could mill in one pass would be about 13".

thanks clyde. that's what i wanted to know. most of the trees that i want to clear and mill are in the 8" - 12" size anyway....

 

[Toddppm]

Thanks for this thread, convinced me to go ahead and order the small mill and accompanying stuff. Had two oaks fall down in the storms last week and will be taking down another next week. Hate to waste the wood as the 2 are Chesnut Oaks, had a similar one fall that was only 12" diameter but over 100 yrs. old! Wood feel bad burning that!
Also ran across this if someone is interested in building their own finger remover mill http://cgi.ebay.com/How-to-Build-a-...552140361QQcategoryZ42938QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem