Chainsaw sharpening

[savageactor7]

Laird don't give up learning to hand file...after awhile you'll get it right. re-read the instructions that come with you'll saw.

Tighter the chain on the bar and secure it in a vice. Try just drawing the file across the chain once while you rotate the file a third turn or so with your thumb and fingers.

It's very imp when sharpening anything that you get comfortable over the object and keep your feet steady...you need to be foot steady when filing to keep the same incline over each tooth.

Take a black marker pen and blacken off the flat part of your starter tooth. Do all teeth on one side then the other.

Remember that it's the points of the chain that do all the cutting so your objective while drawing the fire across the tooth is a nice sharp point. So you are slightly rotating the file up toward that point.

Until you get it right the 1st time keep a length of log by your garage so you can cut a 1" round to see if it's cutting square.

If it's cutting to the left then draw the file once along the right teeth to even it up.

You do that once/twice a day for a week and you'll lock down the mystery of hand filing...and don't think you have to take much off either cause ya don't until you run in to barbed wire or rocks.

All chains can get dull with use so don't think it's just you.

 

[Laird]

Thanks guys, I guess I'll keep plugging away at it till I get it right. Been awhile since I've made the effort. Maybe I'm more patient now that I'm a little older:deadhorse:

 

[Dok]

Actually, my NT grinder helped teach me how to file by hand. I kept practicing hand filing but would also use the grinder to put the chain back in spec. Eventually I got a feel for it. Couldn't have done it without the grinder fixing my mistakes again and again.
Dok

 

[forcedintoit]

I broke down and bought the oregon grinder very nice machine and very easy to use. It has paid for itself already but there are three guys using it.

 

[WetBehindtheEar]

Are the chains sharp and just don't cut straight? Could be the bar on your saw if it's going side ways that bad? Worn out/loose slot on your bar will do that everytime because the chain "folds" whenever you start too put any pressure on it. If it's not too badly worn you can have it squeezed together or swaged with a swaging tool.
QUOTE]

+1 :agree2:

DEFINITELY check out the bar in this case - another thought, have you looked at the drive sprocket? Are the teeth worn in such a way that somehow the chain is being pulled through at an angle?

Just a couple of questions. :greenchainsaw:

 

[bluequill56]

If you don't mind droping some coin, the Stihl bench mount guide absolutely rocks. Easy to set up and adjust, and takes the guess work out of it. Great trainer. I usually freehand now, but I still use it a lot when it's time to true up angles. Rocked chains get ground, then touched up with a file.

 

[cityevader]

Also remember that your different arm muscles give different pressure if filing the right or left side of the teeth. (number of file strokes mean nothing if applied pressure is different)

I'm right handed and easily file the left teeth (right to left) because the stronger bicep and pectoral muscles are being used....once I flip around and file the right side (left to right) only a goofy application of much weaker tricep muscles are used.

I used to always cut a left-curve. Now, while sharpening the right side, I use my left thumb to apply pressure to the file guide against the teeth. Vastly improved consistency of cut.

 

[68kaiser]

Yes' if you are going to cut wood you must know how to sharpen your chain by hand. I have been doing it for 3 years now (Don't sound like much) but am very meticulous about it and yes I ave F'ed up many chains.Now I even touch up factory chain before I use it with great results, the key is the gullet.

sharpen some by hand and after some time you will look back at old chain that you have sharpened and laugh. If I where closer I would show you how wile drinking a beer.

 

[TallElf]

I picked up an Oregon bar mount sharpener and use a Stihl file in it. Had no major issues and as a matter of fact spit LARGE chips.. only issue I had was when I knicked a rock and tried to sharpen it out.. didn't realize that I had to keep on sharpening until the chisl was flat again. was pist as to why it wasn't cutting. stopped down to the hardware store to pick some seasoned knowledge from the resident chansaw guru...

 

[MJR]

A grinder will make you cut crooked even fast. That was good advice about the bar. Baileys has some good deals right know on bars. Good luck

 

[AT sawyer]

Here's ONE way to hand sharpen

This site will show how to hand sharpen a chain and what to be aware of when doing so. Chain manufacturers stamp safety and alignment markings on chains for a reason; learn to follow the correct angles and you will have a sharp, straight-cutting chain. You don't need to spend a lot of money.

http://blueandwhitecrew.org/resources/tips/chainsaws.php

 

[Brian VT]

Bar mount

I want to start with a bar mount guide and then learn to file free-hand.
I grabbed an Oregon guide. I'm unsure how it's supposed to sit on the chain. The directions are unclear to me. I'm thinking about returning this and getting a Granberg, but it looks much the same.
- When you put it on the bar should it sit down on top of the teeth behind the one you intend to sharpen and then you tighten the rear thumb screw ?
- The chain clamp. It says to clamp the "T-Bars" on the center of the rivets. I don't feel confident that I'm getting it clamped accurately every time as it seems to want to wander a bit while clamping. It seems to me you'd want a more consistent anchor point ?

Sorry for :deadhorse:

 

[GrndsKpr-Wlly]

Alot of good info and tips....
From what I understand too from others is it depends on if your right or left handed as to how well you sharpen what side of the chain.... Now don't y'all jump on me... It's just what I heard... Who knows.. But if I pay attention and do a nice slow job, it cuts like never before, after I'm done.. And I freehand on older chains I have, just follow the marks on the teeth at back edge...... I usually buy a new one just before I block my 8 cord in spring.. for 30.00 it's worth it... (Oh yeah, read directions on Oregon box, soak chain for 24 hours before using,,,, Who knew?? Nobody I talked to!)

This year coming will be the first year for the 2171 to do the full 8...

 

[jburlingham]

I want to start with a bar mount guide and then learn to file free-hand.
I grabbed an Oregon guide. I'm unsure how it's supposed to sit on the chain. The directions are unclear to me. I'm thinking about returning this and getting a Granberg, but it looks much the same.
- When you put it on the bar should it sit down on top of the teeth behind the one you intend to sharpen and then you tighten the rear thumb screw ?
- The chain clamp. It says to clamp the "T-Bars" on the center of the rivets. I don't feel confident that I'm getting it clamped accurately every time as it seems to want to wander a bit while clamping. It seems to me you'd want a more consistent anchor point ?

Sorry for :deadhorse:

The devise works ok for me, its real advantage is consistency from tooth to tooth as far as angle and file placement. Untill you have filed a bunch and become proficient maintaining the angle and getting a file in the right part of the tooth is tricky. Some time with the guide and you may feel more confident to try free hand.
You are correct in your statement about lousy directions. The T-bar has a screw on the back side if you want to make it super tight. I have found I don't tighten it a lot as you have to loosen it to rotate the chain to the next tooth. the rear bar mount is the important one tighten.

 

[Brian VT]

I've gotten a feel for tightening the thing but I don't understand where the jig is supposed to be sitting before I clamp everything tight so that I can do it the same every time.

 

[jburlingham]

Like they say in the instructions (and i feel your pain on this part) The T Bar is supposed to be at the center of the rivets. It will initially look as if its cockeyed, but from my experience with it, as you tighten it it seems to straighten out.

 

[avalancher]

Another factor to consider; try and sharpen your chains BEFORE they get so dull they dont cut anymore. When the chain gets real dull, you end up having to take off so much teeth to get an edge and a point that it can lead you into making an incorrect angle. As a matter of habit, I swipe the file across the teeth after every second fill up, regardless of its cutting good or not. One swipe and on to the next tooth.
I also have a NT grinder, the one for 89 bucks and I love it, it does a good job. But in all honesty, I never use the thing except for a rocked out chain. Grinders take off a lot of tooth, and they dont do any better than a properly used file. In fact, I have found that a light pass with a file gives me a better edge and point to the tooth.
Just be patient, it takes time to teach your hands and eyes to work together in hand filing.

 

[dnf0929]

:agree2:

I run the file across once or twice at each fill-up and it seems work like a charm. Plus it makes the whole cutting experience much more enjoyable. Dull chains make dull days.

 

[mtfallsmikey]

Hey AT: I used to be a PATC overseer on the Big Blue...it passes near me. Knew some of the Cadillac Crew.

 

[Burvol]

Yes' if you are going to cut wood you must know how to sharpen your chain by hand. I have been doing it for 3 years now (Don't sound like much) but am very meticulous about it and yes I ave F'ed up many chains.Now I even touch up factory chain before I use it with great results, the key is the gullet.

sharpen some by hand and after some time you will look back at old chain that you have sharpened and laugh. If I where closer I would show you how wile drinking a beer.

Why?