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Just typed a response and lost it somehow.

I have not considered a dolmar only because I have never seen one in my area, but I like the idea of an adjustable oiler.

We are on the same page, perhaps just saying it differently. Disposable to me is a $200 saw that if ran over, broke, blown up, whatever is note a huge loss vs a $5-600 pro saw that has a $250 port job on it. The other thing I did not mention is having a saw I could lone to someone without worrying so much about it.

So far a refurb 435 is $175 shipped, MS180 is $200ish and the Dolmar PS-32 is $200 shipped. I am all about buying once and being done with it hence me looking at the saws mentioned vs something like a ryobi. Not knocking the ryobi but I would like a better saw than that for what I have ahead of me.

Thanks to all for the replies.

I wish there was one clear better saw but I guess I should let price dictate since there is not way I can handle each saw.



There is.
I told you what it is.
Compare price, features, quality and value.

Then buy the Dolmar and thank me later.


Mike
 
There is.
I told you what it is.
Compare price, features, quality and value.

Then buy the Dolmar and thank me later.


Mike

If he is looking for a new or refurb then the dolly is the clear leader. I was thinking more on the lines of a Homelite XL tophandle or Poulan tophandle. They are cheap, almost indestructible, parts are dirt cheap, and super easy to repair. When I head to the woods for trail cleaning I usually have either a Poulan Pro S25DA or a Homelite XL in the bed of my ranger.

For what he is describing they will do everything he wants and come in under $50, if he shops right that could include a new bar and chain.
 
You're likely to spend more time running this junk saw for this duty than you will your goods ones. Make sure you get something with A/V, which rules out a Wild Thing, but not the Poulan Pros. And I'd recommend a strato engine to reduce fuel use and fumes. Probably the refurb 435 would be perfect
 
You're likely to spend more time running this junk saw for this duty than you will your goods ones. Make sure you get something with A/V, which rules out a Wild Thing, but not the Poulan Pros. And I'd recommend a strato engine to reduce fuel use and fumes. Probably the refurb 435 would be perfect

Not enough clutch on those......take a look at one....
 
There is.
I told you what it is.
Compare price, features, quality and value.

Then buy the Dolmar and thank me later.


Mike


The more I look the more I tend to agree with you.

$199.95 to my door, and all the features you mentioned.

I looked at the PS35 not a lot more money but a little more power and weight, then the 420/421, and then and then and then I am right back to the weight, power and price tag of my 261. I have rulled the husky out as too much trouble to tune the carb with MM, and it runs 325 chain. I dont love the idea of the tool less adjuster on the 180 and if I MM it I wil need to buy another carb, so leaning away from it. I looks like the dolmar will run the same chain as my 261 )3/8s .050), but not sure if bars will swap. From the pics it looks like I can adjust the H and L side of the carb on the dolly so big plus there and it has a cat muffler so I gota assume a MM will wake it up a bit more.

For you guys that have a 50/70cc combo is there any point in looking at a 40cc saw? Or should I look more in the 30cc range?

I am a more is better kinda guy when it comes to power but the whole point of getting a smaller saw is, well, to get a smaller saw.

Thanks for the all the responses.
 
Just typed a response and lost it somehow.

I have not considered a dolmar only because I have never seen one in my area, but I like the idea of an adjustable oiler.

We are on the same page, perhaps just saying it differently. Disposable to me is a $200 saw that if ran over, broke, blown up, whatever is note a huge loss vs a $5-600 pro saw that has a $250 port job on it. The other thing I did not mention is having a saw I could lone to someone without worrying so much about it.

So far a refurb 435 is $175 shipped, MS180 is $200ish and the Dolmar PS-32 is $200 shipped. I am all about buying once and being done with it hence me looking at the saws mentioned vs something like a ryobi. Not knocking the ryobi but I would like a better saw than that for what I have ahead of me.

Thanks to all for the replies.

I wish there was one clear better saw but I guess I should let price dictate since there is not way I can handle each saw.

As far as I know, all of the echo saws have an adjustable oiler as well. If you're looking at "buying something once and being done with it" then you're probably a lot better off spending a little more money up front.
 
The echos are running about $20-50 more than the dolmar and I cant seem to find weight or power ratings on them.

Edit I did find the weights
 
Last edited:
The more I look the more I tend to agree with you.

$199.95 to my door, and all the features you mentioned.

I looked at the PS35 not a lot more money but a little more power and weight, then the 420/421, and then and then and then I am right back to the weight, power and price tag of my 261. I have rulled the husky out as too much trouble to tune the carb with MM, and it runs 325 chain. I dont love the idea of the tool less adjuster on the 180 and if I MM it I wil need to buy another carb, so leaning away from it. I looks like the dolmar will run the same chain as my 261 )3/8s .050), but not sure if bars will swap. From the pics it looks like I can adjust the H and L side of the carb on the dolly so big plus there and it has a cat muffler so I gota assume a MM will wake it up a bit more.

For you guys that have a 50/70cc combo is there any point in looking at a 40cc saw? Or should I look more in the 30cc range?

I am a more is better kinda guy when it comes to power but the whole point of getting a smaller saw is, well, to get a smaller saw.

Thanks for the all the responses.


I'm telling you find a 341 or 401 dolmar then. I've seen them around here on CL for $60. They really wake up with a MM
 
I'm telling you find a 341 or 401 dolmar then. I've seen them around here on CL for $60. They really wake up with a MM

If I could find one I would be all over it. I got no problems buying used but I need this saw sooner rather than later and I have literally seen 2 dolmar saws for sale on CL locally in the past month. You just dont see them in my area.
 
The more I look the more I tend to agree with you.

$199.95 to my door, and all the features you mentioned.

I looked at the PS35 not a lot more money but a little more power and weight, then the 420/421, and then and then and then I am right back to the weight, power and price tag of my 261. I have rulled the husky out as too much trouble to tune the carb with MM, and it runs 325 chain. I dont love the idea of the tool less adjuster on the 180 and if I MM it I wil need to buy another carb, so leaning away from it. I looks like the dolmar will run the same chain as my 261 )3/8s .050), but not sure if bars will swap. From the pics it looks like I can adjust the H and L side of the carb on the dolly so big plus there and it has a cat muffler so I gota assume a MM will wake it up a bit more.

For you guys that have a 50/70cc combo is there any point in looking at a 40cc saw? Or should I look more in the 30cc range?

I am a more is better kinda guy when it comes to power but the whole point of getting a smaller saw is, well, to get a smaller saw.

Thanks for the all the responses.




The Dolmar will run a 3/8ths low pro so no they won't interchange.


Mike
 
The Echo CS400 is more than capable to handle anything you may find laying across the road.

[video=youtube;qGSmofO_FQY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGSmofO_FQY[/video]
 

I've been doing exactly this for the last two winters and since I've worn out one used J Red 2036 and dang near wore out another I bought a Dolmar 420. After five tanks I can definately say it's easier on you A/V wise than the throwaways.It's thirstier but it ain't broke in yet.The goat thing is not a joke if you aren't cutting during the winter let the critters eat the green stuff and then go in and cut.Clearing fence row in Georgia..... in the summer.....shesh!
 
I've been doing exactly this for the last two winters and since I've worn out one used J Red 2036 and dang near wore out another I bought a Dolmar 420. After five tanks I can definately say it's easier on you A/V wise than the throwaways.It's thirstier but it ain't broke in yet.The goat thing is not a joke if you aren't cutting during the winter let the critters eat the green stuff and then go in and cut.Clearing fence row in Georgia..... in the summer.....shesh!

I work outside year round (and a lot of it is building fence and clearing right of ways for fence) so its not biggy. Just pace yourself and drink plenty of water. We are rebuilding the fence to run long horns in there. They are the goat of cows.

I am going to order the PS-32 today. For $200 delivered I dont think I can go wrong. It is supposed to have good AV. I would like a 421 but the weight is only about .8lbs less than my 261 and the price is is about 75% more than the 32. Kind of getting away from the cheap and lite theme.

Thanks to all who replied. Not that anyone cares but I will report back on how the lil saw runs, then MM it and see if that helps.
 
Stihl MS-180

We do a lot of work on our farm clearing out fence rows as well, which is the same work you would be doing I assume. My dad bought a used MS180 for like 110 bucks from our local dealer with a bunch of new parts-bar, two chains, air filter, fuel line and filter, 2-stroke oil packets and a quart of oil. I didn't think much of it until we used it clearing fence rows. You definitely want a lightweight saw when working in the brush right next to the fence, our saw filled up with a 14" bar weighs less than the 261 without a bar. Stick with a small bar, 14" or so, and buy extra chains, cause you will tear up a few once you get a hold of that fence, which eventually happens. our saw came with green picco micro chain, which most of the guys on here will tell you sucks, but it is perfect in those fence rows. kickback will throw the bar right into the fence=ruined chain. For the record though, I would have purchased the PS-32 if it was my choice, but that little MS180 starts every time, and works hard, which is all I ask of a saw. Just some notes from experience from a guy who has done a LOT of what you are about to do. Drink lots of water, wear PPE, and Advil is your friend!
 
We do a lot of work on our farm clearing out fence rows as well, which is the same work you would be doing I assume. My dad bought a used MS180 for like 110 bucks from our local dealer with a bunch of new parts-bar, two chains, air filter, fuel line and filter, 2-stroke oil packets and a quart of oil. I didn't think much of it until we used it clearing fence rows. You definitely want a lightweight saw when working in the brush right next to the fence, our saw filled up with a 14" bar weighs less than the 261 without a bar. Stick with a small bar, 14" or so, and buy extra chains, cause you will tear up a few once you get a hold of that fence, which eventually happens. our saw came with green picco micro chain, which most of the guys on here will tell you sucks, but it is perfect in those fence rows. kickback will throw the bar right into the fence=ruined chain. For the record though, I would have purchased the PS-32 if it was my choice, but that little MS180 starts every time, and works hard, which is all I ask of a saw. Just some notes from experience from a guy who has done a LOT of what you are about to do. Drink lots of water, wear PPE, and Advil is your friend!


Have you ran a PS32? Howd it compare to the 180?

I kinda wanted the 180 but I know I will mod this saw and I didnt want to have to buy a new carb. If the pics are accurate I can adjust the H and L on the 32, one of the big reasons I got it, plus the AV and adjustable metal oil pump.

I have cut miles of right of way, cut cedars privet and everything else under the sun out of fences and its always been with the cheapest saw my dad could get (I work for/with him) wich is usually a ryobi or poulan that runs like a weak 40cc but weights like a heavy 50cc. Oh, and think I am gona pick up an HT130 too. My work is going to get it for me so that will be a big help as well
 
Have you ran a PS32? Howd it compare to the 180?

I kinda wanted the 180 but I know I will mod this saw and I didnt want to have to buy a new carb. If the pics are accurate I can adjust the H and L on the 32, one of the big reasons I got it, plus the AV and adjustable metal oil pump.

I have cut miles of right of way, cut cedars privet and everything else under the sun out of fences and its always been with the cheapest saw my dad could get (I work for/with him) wich is usually a ryobi or poulan that runs like a weak 40cc but weights like a heavy 50cc. Oh, and think I am gona pick up an HT130 too. My work is going to get it for me so that will be a big help as well

I have a HT 130, and it is great. It will also make anything else you use, including the 390xp feel light! That thing is a serious shoulder workout. I was also thinking you could just buy a shorter bar for the 261 and save the 200 bucks. That'd lighten it up a little and make it more nimble
 
I have a HT 130, and it is great. It will also make anything else you use, including the 390xp feel light! That thing is a serious shoulder workout. I was also thinking you could just buy a shorter bar for the 261 and save the 200 bucks. That'd lighten it up a little and make it more nimble

True but I also wanted a cheaper loaner saw. The PS32 is about 2.5lbs liter. I could put a 16 on the 261 vs the 18 but not sure its worth it, plus the 261 (that I have not got yet) is brand new and ported and I just didnt want it to start life out in such conditions. Sure it was made to work but I am going to use it for play at first.

I was considering the Kombi system vs the HT130, andy input? I suppose I could get the 100 but figure the more power the better for a pole saw.
 

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