checking

[NuggyBuggy]

I have a few slabs that I cut, they are about 2"x 28". They look great, but I have notice some small cracks on the surface (not ends) of the slabs. I sealed the ends before I cut them. They have been drying for about 4 months - outside, but covered in a portable shelter in Central Ontario.

Is there something I ought to do, is this normal, or am I going to end up with a stack of toothpicks?

thanks!
terry

 

[gemniii]

What type of wood?
Some wood always splits.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

What type of wood?
Some wood always splits.

Right. This is a matter of some debate. I've heard a bunch of opinions from neighbours - red oak, maple, ash. not sure that any of them are very knowledgeable, however.

the leaves are long gone and I am far from an expert. I posted pictures elsewhere and also got a range of responses. I could post better this weekend.

thanks. !
terry

 

[BobL]

What type of wood?
Some wood always splits.

Especially if it is near the heart.
On some Aussie hardwoods I also seal sections of slabs near the heart.

 

[Burlhunter13]

Especially if it is near the heart.
On some Aussie hardwoods I also seal sections of slabs near the heart.

Glad you brought that up Bob....thought i was the only one doing that. Figured it was my obsessive wood-bug nature! I seal any exposed end grain (knots/pith) on slab faces. Sometime a whole strip down the middle of the face, been having decent results doing this.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

these slabs weren't near the heart. But, the cracks I noticed were on the top slab (did not check the others). Is a top slab more likely to check due to not having something bearing upon it?

Another (dumb) question: if you seal the faces, how does the slab dry?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

these slabs weren't near the heart. But, the cracks I noticed were on the top slab (did not check the others). Is a top slab more likely to check due to not having something bearing upon it?

Another (dumb) question: if you seal the faces, how does the slab dry?

It's never really "sealed", you are just slowing down the process...

SR

 

[Dave Boyt]

What do you use to seal the wood? Anchorseal?

 

[NuggyBuggy]

I sealed my ends with a wax from Lee Valley. I haven't sealed the faces, but at the prices for the wax I will have to find a cheaper alternative. Though, since I am looking at several years to dry, the prospect of slowing down the process is not too appealing, though better than ending up with nothing. I have an impatient wife wondering when the investment in Woodworking and milling tools will bear fruit. LOL

 

[BobL]

In Australia any small quantities of petroleum based stuff for hobby type folk like "end check" and "anchor seal" costs an arm and a leg. The last time I bought some at a wood work shop it cost $40 a quart! The ridiculous thing is that you can buy 50 gallons for about $250!

I used to use plastic paint but I have run out of all my old paint and even seconds paint from hardware stores is not cheap so I've started using a mix of Paraffin wax (candles) and turpentine.
Two regular candles to a gallon of turps seems to work - melt candles in an electric fry pan and add turps. When it cools it does go pretty sludgy and separates out but a quick shake and stand in the sun for 30 minutes and it suspends bak up OK. I have no idea how it will work in colder climates.

 

[Dave Boyt]

Thanks, BobL. I'll have to try that! If it's cold, I'll just throw a batch in the microwave. You sure wouldn't want that stuff to catch fire!

 

[gemniii]

For end checking hit yard sales for cans of latex paint.

 

[NuggyBuggy]

With wax and/or latex paint on the surface, how do you guys work with it when ready ? Do you have to belt sand all that stuff off before jointing/planing ?

And, how does latex paint affect pinless moisture metering ?

 

[john taliaferro]

Got to be careful as the dust and chips from turning makes polished concrete floors or painted very bust your butt slippery

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Two BIG reasons i no longer use any kind of paint.

First of all and biggest is, it doesn't work all that well, even though it may make you "feel better" because you are putting "something" on the ends. (yes i tried it side by side with Anchorseal)

Secondly, the grit in it is hard on what ever is cutting through it. It's just like hitting a bit of sand on every cut. Anchorseal has no affect on blades, and doesn't dull them.

IF the log is of high enough quality to be worth grade sawing, it's worth enough to be putting "Anchorseal" on it!

SR

 

[BobL]

Two BIG reasons i no longer use any kind of paint.
First of all and biggest is, it doesn't work all that well, even though it may make you "feel better" because you are putting "something" on the ends. (yes i tried it side by side with Anchorseal)
Secondly, the grit in it is hard on what ever is cutting through it. It's just like hitting a bit of sand on every cut. Anchorseal has no affect on blades, and doesn't dull them.
IF the log is of high enough quality to be worth grade sawing, it's worth enough to be putting "Anchorseal" on it!
SR

We've had these arguments before but what the heck, why not lets have them again

Here's where I have been doing most of my cutting.

Twice a day, almost every day, there's a stiff breeze that blows sand, limestone dust and cement from the limestone brick factory across the milling yard. If I seal log ends with paint, the paint is dry in an hour and very little sticks to it after that. If I seal with anchor seal it always stays sticky and it builds up a layer of limestone dust on it. Plus if an anchor sealed log is moved around in the dirt, rocks and grit is much more likely to stick to it than dry paint. My paraffin wax and turps sealing mix dries out a lot more and leaves a less sticky layer than anchorseal but it still picks up some grit. For the parts of the log and lumber that are not sealed a quick wash with a garden hose is all that is needed to get it clean.

One simple solution to stuff stuck to the sealed ends is to buck an inch or two of the ends of the log before milling. In some Aussie hardwoods it is a good idea to buck the ends anyway because even with anchorseal the ends become as hard as rock and it knocks the stuffing out of the chain. It does mean re-sealing the ends of the lumber again but that is much better than killing the chain and struggling through the log. The same goes when thicknessing and resawing.

I do agree that anchorseal does work better than paint and if the log is worth it and you are in the milling business then you can pass on the cost of the anchorseal to the cost of business. But many of us are not and I have never lost even a quality log by using paint.

 

[1953greg]

With wax and/or latex paint on the surface, how do you guys work with it when ready ? Do you have to belt sand all that stuff off before jointing/planing ?

And, how does latex paint affect pinless moisture metering ?

i do not paint/seal the surfaces. just the ends and preferrably in the log before milling. i use cheapest latex paint. works for me. i have never had any surface cracking other than hairline.
i have put clamps across some 3"x 28" x10' slab ends that i tightened weekly for a year or more that i wanted no chance of cracking. all thread & angle iron makes good clamps.

if the entire slab was painted it wouldnt dry

 

[BobL]

if the entire slab was painted it wouldnt dry

It will dry, just a lot slower. Paint is not impervious to air or water vapor. If it was, an open can of paint would develop a thin skin and then the underneath would remain permanently liquid.

Green timber does not dry by liquid water evaporating from the surface but because liquid water inside the wood is converted to water vapor. The vapor more easily penetrates through the fibres and will also penetrate paint, albeit very slowly.

 

[gemniii]

We've had these arguments before but what the heck, why not lets have them again

Could there be a difference between the effect of paint on a chain and paint on a blade?

Especially if you are using the chain to make 2"+ slabs versus a blade to make 4/4 or less.

 

[BobL]

Could there be a difference between the effect of paint on a chain and paint on a blade?

Especially if you are using the chain to make 2"+ slabs versus a blade to make 4/4 or less.

Most paint contains Titanium Oxide which is much more abrasive than wax based sealers - an example of this is trying to plane/thickness painted lumber but there is a big difference between the many times a planer cutter strikes a painted surface, and the single 1/64" paint film that a blade or chain has to make one pas through.

The problem disappears if an inch or two is removed from the end of the log.