D
Deleted member 117362
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You would think he would have heard piston smacking cylinder head. Have seen a bottom rod bearing fail and blow cylinder off of saw. If he used a base gasket that should not happen.
#$%^ Chinese 660 Stihl clone saw.
- Thread starter dls
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I had read of a couple instances where the counter weights were hitting the inside of the piston skirt and chipping off bits of aluminum and getting into the big end bearing and causing it to fail. I checked for this when I built mine and it was hitting. I took my Dremel and slightly beveled the inside edge of the skirt and it gave it enough clearance.
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noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
I agree. He should have noticed that. Most of the cylinders anymore have been so tight on the squish that it is impossible to delete the gasket. Also the paper gasket that comes in the kit is able to be crushed to the point that it doesn't allow clearance as well... Whatever the reason, there is no way that the Piston just mysteriously hit the top of the cylinder out of nowhere and broke the connecting rod.. if it hit once, it hit every time. Something that could have been avoided. Just saying.. it is easier for me to blame someone than to consider my own ignorance.
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
This is funny... Give the person to his right my number.
I re read the original post and I am unsure if the op meant the rod bearing failed causing the piston to hit or if the piston hit first causing the bearing to fail. It's very possible the bearing failed first due to aluminum shavings in it and then the piston hit the top of the cylinder.
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Matt93eg
ArboristSite Operative
This!
I guess I don't understand the OP, you buy something such as this, and then ***** when it doesn't work out???? Really??? All I can do is SMH.
noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
If all else looks good, then I would presume no other failure...
He definitely said the rod bearing was gone.
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noodlewalker
ArboristSite Guru
Very possible... It will be interesting to see how it turns out.
I've seen an 045 Super Madsen's hotrod that was on rebuild #3 have the bottom end get some slop and hammer itself to an early death. Fortunately all was not lost as there was a pair of 056s and an 045 Super II that needed some crucial bits off of the saw. But, that was after 3 top end rebuilds, not 7 or so cuts. That definitely sucks. Was it a blue thunder or a carrot top?
dls
ArboristSite Operative
I was warned by people on the forums the chain brake handle is way off. Expected it but have not yet figured out the fix. Others told me the problem had been remedied. Also was warned about the compression release. I built 12 of these things for others and kept 3 for myself and warned the guys I built them for to replace the compression release because the knob falls off and the valve falls in the cylinder trashing it. When I took it off, sure enough, the comp valve can be pushed all the way through and certainly down far enough to hit a piston. I do not think the paper cylinder gasket crush was off issue because I had damaged the gasket and purchased a stihl one to replace it. Everything was clean on one saw but I did have one saw that had aluminum dust all over it and ran all the parts through the extra dishwasher (which fades the crap out of paint on fake or real stihl if you use dishwasher soap but cleans everything well). All the carbs on the 440 and 460 kits suck. The choke sticks open or sticks closed. Nothing I have been able to do keeps them from sticking other than honing the bore through the venturie a little bigger. Almost every chinese carb I have found, the lever that rests against the idle screw positioned wrong on the shaft and the idle cannot be adjusted. I used to order the bearings in sleeves of 10 each for the saws but were gritty as stated and no-longer do that. Some issues like plastic fitting to match the compression release button are better but on the big saws fuel tanks still seap a little. Fuel and oil caps have been improved. Stihl finally improved their caps too. I had hell with stihl caps. This summer the dealer showed me 4 revisions on the Stihl caps and I think they finally got that right. I've not broken one, had them twist out of place or had to pry one out of the bore since the latest cap and o-ring version. The flywheel nut on the 440 and 460 kits is not a flanged nut and I think it should be tossed and replaced with a real flanged on. I was not going to build any kit saws but I had requests and a challenge to do so, so I did after a guy talked me into selling him the other eight 044's I rebuilt. I just cannot get used saws needing work here. A non running piece of junk 044 brings $250 -$275 as everyone knows parts are available and they are easy to rebuild. Same with the 066. Takes longer to tear down an old saw, clean it and put it together. Kit takes 2 1/2 hours but if done twice? I am doubting. This saw that crapped out at full throttle in the cut ran awesome. I finished the tree with the MS200 and it was a downer compared. Not complaining about the 200. It has been my favorite little saw for 10 years. Thought I would post this so ppl had an idea what to expect. They cylinders have been improved. Seem a harder material than the older kits. Castings seem more complete. No noticed pits in castings. I will try to post a picture of a casting pit in the bore on a saw I repaired if I can get the camera to focus inside it. Shipping has been about 12 days but if something is missing or a defective part, it takes 2 months of emails to get farmtech to finally send a part. VERY frustrating. Individual parts may come in 2 weeks, may come in 8 weeks. That is frustrating too but is the blasted dealers had inventory which they USED to have, I would probably go to the dealer. Since the dealer wait is 2 weeks for parts, why buy from them when you can buy for 1/6th the price and maybe get it 2 days earlier?
Chinesium!!!!
I have respect for the few folks capable of building one of these kits into an actual reliable usable worksaw. They are the fine minority though. When building with OEM you trust each part that comes out of its sealed bag and while you make some checks, you proceed with confidence & 99.9% of the time you get quality. Being a successful kit saw builder takes more skill, as I said I respect those few who turn them into good saws. Those guys are usually backed with a ton of knowledge & experience.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
You're missing the part where someone repairing has to troubleshoot a bad part to know they need to order a new one in a bag...
dls
ArboristSite Operative
Normal expectation is a new part does not need trouble shooting but all used parts need inspection. All these things have some play side to side on the rod connection to crank but I missed up and down. Usually you just notice something that is just not quite right. It grabs you so I take a second look. I only work on a few model saws. At 70 years old it is too hard to stay familiar with all makes and models. Likely did not not help that I do most my saw work from 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. when all other work is done and everyone has gone to bed else I might have noticed new junk crap straight out of the box. In a similar fashion, I assemble nearly the entire engine of an 046 with the crankshaft in backward. First time ever. When I went to the dealer to get new gaskets and seals to re-assemble it, their mechanic was visiting with me and he told me if that was the first time I have ever done it, I was doing good as they have done it several times. 
I always expect some chinese parts like carbs and release valves to be junk. Stihl has their issues too like the 044 that I had to leave the washer behind the clutch out. After trying to resolve it and suspecting that would work, several here told me they had to do the same thing. Some Stihl cranks are slightly different. Dealer says they sub out to companies to make them is the reason for the discrepancy. There are days I get frustrated and want to put my entire Stihl part inventory and tools on ebay and be done with it, then someone will ask me to fix a saw that the dealer told him would cost $300 to fix and I do it for a $15 part. Still no response from Hutzl/Farmtek on my missing parts or the 660 issue. I do not think they will respond. Slow when they do. It can take weeks sometimes and still no replacement for bad or missing parts. Sometimes they say out of stock, sometimes no answer, sometimes say factory is closed to improve the product which it appears they have improved some. SMH. No reputable business left on globe planer earth.
I always expect some chinese parts like carbs and release valves to be junk. Stihl has their issues too like the 044 that I had to leave the washer behind the clutch out. After trying to resolve it and suspecting that would work, several here told me they had to do the same thing. Some Stihl cranks are slightly different. Dealer says they sub out to companies to make them is the reason for the discrepancy. There are days I get frustrated and want to put my entire Stihl part inventory and tools on ebay and be done with it, then someone will ask me to fix a saw that the dealer told him would cost $300 to fix and I do it for a $15 part. Still no response from Hutzl/Farmtek on my missing parts or the 660 issue. I do not think they will respond. Slow when they do. It can take weeks sometimes and still no replacement for bad or missing parts. Sometimes they say out of stock, sometimes no answer, sometimes say factory is closed to improve the product which it appears they have improved some. SMH. No reputable business left on globe planer earth.
windthrown
361 Junkie
Only good thing China ever made were Norinco firearms.
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
and beef lo mein
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Which are reverse engineered copies of well known, well respected European models- without the same kind of quality of fit, or standard of materials.
When not European patterns- they dissected the M1 rifle and offered variants of that.
The JW15 works- but it aint no BRNO Model 1.
The one I built runs very well. The experience came from trial and error working through all the problems I had with it. I had no experience prior to that. The knowledge came from the guys on here that built them before me I couldn't have done it without them.
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I found them highly overrated. Solid and reliable, yes, but accuracy wise they were about the worst new firearms I have ever owned. My MAK90 was a 5 MOA rifle on a good day. The Romanian AK’s I’ve owned were crude and had misaligned scope rails, but they would reliably shoot 3MOA or less. Russian Saigas were in another league entirely. Those will typically shoot 2MOA and while the finish on them isn’t anything to write home about, they aren’t the crudely put together rifles that the WASR10’s were.
