Chuck question for turning on a lathe

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Ax-man

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Does a self centering chuck hold a work piece as good as they show on U Tube for hollowing out the end of a bowl as an example?????

I have been wanting to try my hand at making a bowl but never had the right accessories to do this until recently when I bought another lathe that came with some faceplates and a four jaw chuck. The faceplates work good enough for what little I have used them but installing screws just isn't really my thing. The four jaw chuck I have is not working out for me. The chuck is not a self centering type chuck and has three steps in the jaws for different diameter stock. One has to adjust and tighten each jaw separately. The problem comes when the hallowing process starts. The work piece slips out of the jaws.

I did a little digging on the internet on chucks and the one I have may be more suited to a metal lathe. The self centering chucks for doing wood work on a lathe are not really not much different in the jaws than what I have now . Eventually I will probably get a decent chuck for a wood lathe but don't really want to spend the money on one if the same thing is going to happen with the work piece falling out of the chuck when doing hollowing work on end grain.

I am not the most experienced turner by no means. I just might be missing something here when it comes to turning with a chuck and if anyone can pass along a few tips it would be appreciated. Any tips on chuck selection would be helpful.

At the present time I am just going to forget about the chuck and work with the face plates a little more because I feel safer with the faceplates verses using my present chuck.
 
I am in the same position as you are.
Problem is if you buy the wrong one your our some big $$$.
 
Bite the bullet

Don't go with the HF el-cheapo not-self-centering 4-jaw chuck unless you enjoy frustration and flying wooden objects. I went with Grizzly H7820 4 Jaw Chuck 1-1/2" X 8 TPI via Amazon for $150 and it works fine. Be sure to spend some time on the www videos, use the right chisels and learn how to keep 'em sharp (very sharp). It's not as easy as it looks.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll remember the name Grizzly. I can relate very easily that it is not as easy as it looks. As much as I enjoy working with the lathe keeping tools sharp has been another challenge. I have a very fine stone on one of my grinders but no jigs for the gouges so I have to use an degree finder for the tool rest on the grinder and freehand it by taking my time and keep a watchful eye as I grind. I figure I might as well practice my sharpening on the junk chisels that came with the lathe before investing in some real good tools and a jig and a proper grinding stone .

The skew is my favorite tool but I have been getting better with the roughing and spindle gouges. Don't have an actual bowl gouge yet but I can get by without one and a chuck for the present. The face plates and the spindle gouges will give me a little experience to do some minor hollowing just to get a feel for what I need to buy
 
I have a PSI 4 jaw chuck with interchangeable jaws for different sized pieces. I also have a set of flat jaws that have pins in them to hold bowls, etc... from the edge so you can work the bottom. I normally mount my blank, which is a half log, between centers and turn a tenon or recess on the bottom. Then I turn it around and grab the bottom with my 4 jaw and turn the inside of the bowl and most of the outside. Then I use my flat jaws to grab the top of the bowl and finish the bottom. This works out very well and saves a lot of time and trouble. Get or made some flat jaw extensions so you can turn bigger pieces.
 
I bought a Vicmarc Chuck and I have never looked at another chuck since. It has great holding power, good repeatability, and a great selection of jaw types. I start my piece by drilling an 4"ish hole with a forstner bit on the drill press and then expand the chuck in the hole, turn the foot and bottom of piece and then flip it and compress grip the the foot to finish top and inside the bowl
BurlVS.jpg

Keep your tools sharp and use your live center/tail stock whenever possible.
 
Does a self centering chuck hold a work piece as good as they show on U Tube for hollowing out the end of a bowl as an example?????

I have been wanting to try my hand at making a bowl but never had the right accessories to do this until recently when I bought another lathe that came with some faceplates and a four jaw chuck. The faceplates work good enough for what little I have used them but installing screws just isn't really my thing. The four jaw chuck I have is not working out for me. The chuck is not a self centering type chuck and has three steps in the jaws for different diameter stock. One has to adjust and tighten each jaw separately. The problem comes when the hallowing process starts. The work piece slips out of the jaws

I did a little digging on the internet on chucks and the one I have may be more suited to a metal lathe. The self centering chucks for doing wood work on a lathe are not really not much different in the jaws than what I have now . Eventually I will probably get a decent chuck for a wood lathe but don't really want to spend the money on one if the same thing is going to happen with the work piece falling out of the chuck when doing hollowing work on end grain.

I am not the most experienced turner by no means. I just might be missing something here when it comes to turning with a chuck and if anyone can pass along a few tips it would be appreciated. Any tips on chuck selection would be helpful.

At the present time I am just going to forget about the chuck and work with the face plates a little more because I feel safer with the faceplates verses using my present chuck.

I use a Oneway Stronghold on both my big lathe (Oliver 20B) and the small one (Oliver 2159). It is self-centering (yes, it works as claimed) and I have three different jaw sets for different sized turnings. A good set of jaws is important. Woodturning jaws are not like metal turning jaws - you'll see from your internet searches how different they look. Smooth jaws avoid marring the surface, but the ridged jaws give more solid grip. I use ridged jaws exclusively.

A good woodturning chuck can be used either on the outside or inside. In other words you can expand the jaws if you have an opening into which they are inserted, or you can clamp them down as on a tail piece. When using them in 'expansion mode' make sure you have enough stock onto which they can grab - otherwise the piece will come off which is not optimal. ;)

The cheap chucks are certainly serviceable and relatively inexpensive. If you do a lot of turning on anything of moderate or larger size you'll eventually want to step up to the better (and more expensive) chucks. Oneway is one of the best but there are others in the same league.

And advice above about tools is very important. Videos are helpful, but the best way to learn is to find a local turning group and join. Turners typically are very happy to help those interested in learning and the best way to learn is standing beside someone who knows what they are doing.

Good luck and enjoy!

George
 
I has been awhile since I checked on this thread, I see there have been more replies.

Well I am happy to say that I have a new to me lathe. It is a Jet 1442, what a difference this lathe is is compared to antique Craftsman lathes I have been using. I bought it from an elderly woman whose husband can longer work at a lathe. The lathe came with many accessories including face plates and a One Way Stronghold self centering chuck for making bowls, along with the bowl gouges.

The new to me Stronghold chuck is a vast improvement over the P.O.S. chuck that started this thread. The holding power is impressive, the self centering makes life so much easier. I actually feel safe using it which I never had using that other chuck. I have only had time to make a few bowls with it but it sure is fun when you have the right tools.
 
Here are a few of my first attempts at making some bowls. I have done a few more but don't have the pics downloaded from my camera. Starting from right to left is apple ,spaulted maple and cherry. The cherry didn't turn out as I might have hoped. Cherry can be colorful wood but this one didn't have much grain to it and is kind of featureless with too much sapwood. I guess it takes the right piece of wood.
 
I have been trying but don't seem to have any luck. They have changed things around a little.
 
Hmm,hope I can figure this out. Got it. I just didn't wait long enough for the download to the site
 

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I use an inexpensive 4 jaw chuck, I think it was like $100.00 on line, it works well, the thing you need to do is when your roughing the blank, be sure to make a good tennon on what is to be the bottom of the bowl and make sure its got a good angle to it, this will help with keeping the piece stable on the lathe and DONT try and take big cuts... go easy, a nice light touch with really sharp tools is the key. I also use my el cheapo three jaw chuck and never had a slippage problem unless I got a pretty big catch... man I hate when that happens... lol
 
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