Climbing Hitches - What's your hitch?

[dts99]

my question for the spiderjack... i climb about 80% of my trims starting with a big shot and climb up into the canopy on a treeaccend with dueling pantins, i then switch over to a vt, can i do this even if my tie in spot is not right infront of me, like say still 20 feet over my head or what ever, or do i need to slide it onto the rope and then back over a limb or thu a friction device? or can it be put on before i climb, or should i just buy it and adjust my system to use it. maybe clip a pulley to my treeaccend and use drt off Dbrt, and have all the benys from everything.... on this note and old timer called me a gadget climber, i said how whould you get up there, he said i wouldnt.

my question was answered mostly i didnt see there was a page 2, next question on sherrill tree there are 2 spiderjacks , costing a few bucks apart, with the same discription, whats up with them?

 

[sir_nick2]

Watch spiderjackery 3 and it'll all be explained, you would have the SJ aleady on your line, set your TIP with the throwline leave the SJ on the ground setup, ascend drt as you would normally once you are there lanyard in remove your acenders and pull the working end of the line down and the SJ will self tend up to your position then you can work Ddrt from there

 

[TreeAce]

my question was answered mostly i didnt see there was a page 2, next question on sherrill tree there are 2 spiderjacks , costing a few bucks apart, with the same discription, whats up with them?

Does one have a swivel?

 

[dts99]

Apon further investigation the more expencive one (by 5 bucks) is the spidejack 2, it just doenst say that, i think it only requires 1 carabeaner as aposed to 2 for the sj1 , im guna get one when i feel like dropping the cash

 

[Timbit]

I havent every seen a spider jack in person, so I was just relaying what the store owner had to say. You are right, you are probably more likey to get a puncture wound from something else, like branches. I am a big dude. I am about 6'2" tall. But I have alot of musle. In college, I could leg press 1000lbs. Went to buy 16" climbing boots, and found out that they wont close around my calves. Think my calves are like 20" around.

If you got the coin there is the ID 20 (I think around $245 or 5 beaver pelts), I used it lots on 1/2" static kernmantle rope for positioning and descending. Works great, easy to use, can be put mid rope, handle is small and not really in the way.
BTW I will keep your number handy for my next bar fight. :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[TreeAce]

If you got the coin there is the ID 20 (I think around $245 or 5 beaver pelts), I used it lots on 1/2" static kernmantle rope for positioning and descending. Works great, easy to use, can be put mid rope, handle is small and not really in the way.
BTW I will keep your number handy for my next bar fight. :hmm3grin2orange:

Do you have any more info? ID 20 didnt show anything tree climbing wise when I searched it. I watched that spiderjack3 video. Its pretty good.

 

[Timbit]

Do you have any more info? ID 20 didnt show anything tree climbing wise when I searched it. I watched that spiderjack3 video. Its pretty good.

TreeAce - try this link: Descenders and Figure 8s for Tree Climbing and Rappelling

 

[Timbit]

Do you have any more info? ID 20 didnt show anything tree climbing wise when I searched it. I watched that spiderjack3 video. Its pretty good.

here's another one with more product info ... I'D S | Petzl

 

[TreeAce]

Ok I got it,thx. I am familiar with the ID. I guess the "20" threw me off.

 

[2treeornot2tree]

i have a id already. It is great for coming down, but to go up, you either have to be heman to pull the rope up threw the device or attach a pully above the id as a redirect. ( i think sherrill tree has a detail showing the pulley and id setup). The nice thing about the id is it can acutally lock it so it doesnt move on the rope no matter what. (The handle moves the cam and pinches the rope.)

 

[minuteman tree]

hitch

I typically use a klemheist (5/16 ultratech) with 1/2" yellow streak and a cmi foot ascender. It tends to lock up under my weight though.

 

[squad143]

Schwabisch, nothing fancy but very reliable. I can just take a flying leap and it'll catch everytime.

I a Schwabish fan as well.

 

[dts99]

I a Schwabish fan as well.

from looks a shwabashki is just a distel with the botton wrapped opposite, id think the distal would act the same and just hook to your carabeaner smoother?

 

[jimbo666]

Wow ive read all the post nobody use this???? i use Machard Tresse 4wrap all the time
sometimes Valdotain Tresse kind of french prussic really smooth! dosent grab a lot tho, sliding but really good for fast climb , i use it on Yales BlueMoon with a short beeline or 22''tenex 10mm

 

[beastmaster]

I use one of two set-ups these days, on 11mm blaze I use both a vt with a hitch climber pulley, and a gri gri with a hand ascender and pulley for SRT. I some times interchange systems converting my SRT to double rope still using the gri gri, and my Vt and hitch climber pulley with a rope wrench for SRT. I like the rope wrench set up but Im not comfortable ascending on it yet, but its sweet for working through the canopy of big trees. I have my eye on a SJ my self, but that's a lot of money to drop with out first trying one.
I think more important then what hitch to use is using a hitch with a pulley to advance your line. I don't know how I did it for all those years with out a pulley to one hand advance my climbing line. Iv'e also got rid of all those big heavy clips and use light weight carabiners, makes a big difference at the end of the day.

 

[jefflovstrom]

I use one of two set-ups these days, on 11mm blaze I use both a vt with a hitch climber pulley, and a gri gri with a hand ascender and pulley for SRT. I some times interchange systems converting my SRT to double rope still using the gri gri, and my Vt and hitch climber pulley with a rope wrench for SRT. I like the rope wrench set up but Im not comfortable ascending on it yet, but its sweet for working through the canopy of big trees. I have my eye on a SJ my self, but that's a lot of money to drop with out first trying one.
I think more important then what hitch to use is using a hitch with a pulley to advance your line. I don't know how I did it for all those years with out a pulley to one hand advance my climbing line. Iv'e also got rid of all those big heavy clips and use light weight carabiners, makes a big difference at the end of the day.

You are a tough bastid, Beast!
If I did actually climb again, it would be on a monkey fist, a scare strap and some other stuff.
Jeff :msp_w00t:

 

[BigUglySquirrel]

I have to say, I think almost everyone goes through this type of progression:

A) Tauntline on a traditional tie-in with a rope snap or a pair of half hitches at the attachment point
B) A Blakes hitch on a traditional tie
C) A Blakes hitch on a split tail
D) Add a tending pulley to the split tail
E) Eye to eye split tail with a distel or schwabish and a tending pulley
F) VT or something similar with a hitch climber

Somewhere in there, it seems most people discover some sort of friction saver...which I recommend...especially if your a bit...um..."stout", such as myself. Honestly...I see no reason to go past that for DdRT. Of course, there are accessories and variations (pantin, Anchor Bridge system, variations to the hitch climber system...)
that one can employ to suit whatever application arises, but I am so happy with the VT/hitch climber setup, that I haven't thought twice about the spider jack/lock jack etc. (That's my personal opinion....you may love some sort of mechanical friction device...keep an open mind)

Now, this isn't taking SRT into account. I haven't spent much time with those systems, but I really see the benefit of at least knowing how to use those systems and owning the minimum gear involved to take advantage of them when needed. The static tie in point really appeals to me, as I usually don't have any means of feasible rescue coming from the ground crew. Just a few things to consider.

My last piece of advice: Never allow yourself to stop learning. Arborculture and climbing are constantly changing....so should you.

I should also add, that I use Samson Arbormaster rope and either 8mm Oceans Polyester or HRT eye to eye tails.

 

[Iustinian]

I usually start a new eye-to-eye (I've been splicing my own out of ocean poly or vectran 8mm) with a VT or XT, and when the cord starts to develop memory, then I switch to distel or michocain until the memory changes again and I switch back or buy or make a new e2e. I've used ultratech and 8mm beeline alot, but ocean poly and vectran seem alot better, Sterling RIT is tough as well, but so far the best is the newest Donaughy's Armor Prus -- really awesome stuff.

 

[tramp bushler]

I havent every seen a spider jack in person, so I was just relaying what the store owner had to say. You are right, you are probably more likey to get a puncture wound from something else, like branches. I am a big dude. I am about 6'2" tall. But I have alot of musle. In college, I could leg press 1000lbs. Went to buy 16" climbing boots, and found out that they wont close around my calves. Think my calves are like 20" around.

Viberg will build the 16" double sole Lineman's boot to fit you like a glove. Just have them send you a fitting kit. It comes with a tape and instructions on where to measure. My calves are 20" also and my 16" 148s lace up just right. I am close to 280 lbs in the spurs with a climbing saw on.

 

[Tree services.]

VT,Bee-line 3 wrap