Clutch issues with m290

[scut207]

I was trying to diagnose a stuck clutch. I dissasembled it, and the interior drum and shoes were covered in a really thick and hard to clean black grime. The drum was a real PITA to work off the clutch. I scrubbed it all out and reassembled. I used a rattle gun to tighten it back on.

I replaced the drum and the washer and sat the e-clip in perfectly it spins inside the goove, however when ever I try to run the saw the e-clip pops off and its still running the chain occationally at idle.

if I wack on the side where the bar is, it will stop running the chain at idle.

Ive put the eclip on like 3 times and it keeps popping off when testing. The clutch doesnt look like its closing down like it should, I checked it when I was popping the e-clip back on.

I'm guessing I should replace the whole clutch/drum assembly. but so many folks have said that these rarely go bad.

the next issue is I think it has an 8T .325 and all the available that I can find are 7T 3/8.

Is .325 on stihls an older chain that they are moving away from? will the 3/8 work on the same 20" bar? The bar identifier and all the markings have worn away.

 

[user 122190]

First thing is to get a new e-clip. Any hardware store will have an 8mm e-clip. For the clutch sprocket, look harder. Go to your dealer if you must.

 

[scut207]

First thing is to get a new e-clip. Any hardware store will have an 8mm e-clip. For the clutch sprocket, look harder. Go to your dealer if you must.

does it make sense to swap over to the 3/8 chain? The bar is rather beat up. I just dont understand the market well, is .325 being obsolesced by stihl?

 

[user 122190]

does it make sense to swap over to the 3/8 chain? The bar is rather beat up. I just dont understand the market well, is .325 being obsolesced by stihl?

I ran a 3/8 on my 290. It is a good swap. Saw has plenty of power to drive a 3/8 B&C and it is easier to keep sharp and there are more chain options.

.325 is still alive and well. It is for home owner saws, or small cc displacement saws. You have a capable rancher saw, so no reason to stay with the .325 when the 3/8 is perfectly fine with the 290.

-- edit --
In doing the swap -- You're going to have to buy a new bar, chain, and clutch sprocket. Go with a rim sprocket, as you are probably currently running a spur sprocket. And 7 tooth is the more common size. Take the clutch spring mechanism in to the dealer and ask if you should replace it. It is probably okay, but you might as well ask, and it might not be all that expensive. Could save you some aggravation down the road. Good Luck!

 

[grizz55chev]

I was trying to diagnose a stuck clutch. I dissasembled it, and the interior drum and shoes were covered in a really thick and hard to clean black grime. The drum was a real PITA to work off the clutch. I scrubbed it all out and reassembled. I used a rattle gun to tighten it back on.

I replaced the drum and the washer and sat the e-clip in perfectly it spins inside the goove, however when ever I try to run the saw the e-clip pops off and its still running the chain occationally at idle.

if I wack on the side where the bar is, it will stop running the chain at idle.

Ive put the eclip on like 3 times and it keeps popping off when testing. The clutch doesnt look like its closing down like it should, I checked it when I was popping the e-clip back on.

I'm guessing I should replace the whole clutch/drum assembly. but so many folks have said that these rarely go bad.

the next issue is I think it has an 8T .325 and all the available that I can find are 7T 3/8.

Is .325 on stihls an older chain that they are moving away from? will the 3/8 work on the same 20" bar? The bar identifier and all the markings have worn away.

Some pics would be really helpful in diagnosis of the problem.

 

[Captain Bruce]

I was trying to diagnose a stuck clutch. I dissasembled it, and the interior drum and shoes were covered in a really thick and hard to clean black grime. The drum was a real PITA to work off the clutch. I scrubbed it all out and reassembled. I used a rattle gun to tighten it back on.

I replaced the drum and the washer and sat the e-clip in perfectly it spins inside the goove, however when ever I try to run the saw the e-clip pops off and its still running the chain occationally at idle.

if I wack on the side where the bar is, it will stop running the chain at idle.

Ive put the eclip on like 3 times and it keeps popping off when testing. The clutch doesnt look like its closing down like it should, I checked it when I was popping the e-clip back on.

I'm guessing I should replace the whole clutch/drum assembly. but so many folks have said that these rarely go bad.

the next issue is I think it has an 8T .325 and all the available that I can find are 7T 3/8.

Is .325 on stihls an older chain that they are moving away from? will the 3/8 work on the same 20" bar? The bar identifier and all the markings have worn away.

Stihl tech here, with 18 x 1127-series saws having come across my Bench. Thats this year....

These saws a bullet-proof. Sounds like this, to me, and maybe, other forum readers. Replace the clutch, drum, bearing, and when buying a drum, simply make it 3/8"? If the .325 isn't badly worn, keep it for the versatility. You have a worn out clutch, with weak springs, a bad bearing that is no longer true, and the drum is along for the ride. Also, the reason you are having trouble with the clip is because you aren't marking, and indexing the slot for the oil gear. $25 from now, your 290 will we making chips and smiles again!

 

[stihltech]

If the clip.can be spun around the crank when installed, replace it. Ditto on lining up the clutch drum and drive tang.

 

[cookies]

Get the rim kit, its a bit more expensive up front but comes in .325 and 3/8. you only need to swap the 8.00$ rim to change the chain pitch this way or if it wears out.

 

[scut207]

I was taking care to line up the oil drive lever with the drum/bell slot if that was in question, and it was oiling. But I think you're all correct just get a whole new rim/clutch kit.

 

[cookies]

If the new E clip gives you issues simply swap a snap ring in its place

 

[thenne1713]

I was trying to diagnose a stuck clutch. I dissasembled it, and the interior drum and shoes were covered in a really thick and hard to clean black grime. The drum was a real PITA to work off the clutch. I scrubbed it all out and reassembled. I used a rattle gun to tighten it back on.

I replaced the drum and the washer and sat the e-clip in perfectly it spins inside the goove, however when ever I try to run the saw the e-clip pops off and its still running the chain occationally at idle.

if I wack on the side where the bar is, it will stop running the chain at idle.

Ive put the eclip on like 3 times and it keeps popping off when testing. The clutch doesnt look like its closing down like it should, I checked it when I was popping the e-clip back on.

I'm guessing I should replace the whole clutch/drum assembly. but so many folks have said that these rarely go bad.

the next issue is I think it has an 8T .325 and all the available that I can find are 7T 3/8.

Is .325 on stihls an older chain that they are moving away from? will the 3/8 work on the same 20" bar? The bar identifier and all the markings have worn away.

REPLACE NEEDLE BEARING, AND GREASE DAILY