Convert obsolete to modern can it be done?

[Ndfan6464]

Good day folks. Newbie here so guess I should intro myself before the question. Iam just starting out in the vintage chainsaw world. Got bored with restoring vintage wood working machines and I've always loved chainsaws. So after cruising the forums and being inspired by what I saw and the amount info you all have I figured I'd give it a try. So if I do something newbish please forgive me and set me on the right path.

As far as my question goes. I picked up a Sears/ David Bradley 917.60044 to work on. I know the chain pitch is obsolete and if your lucky to find some its really expensive. So is it possible to convert this saw to modern pitch and if so what needs to be done? Thank you for time and any help.

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

You would need a new drive sprocket and bar. Good luck finding a 3/8" or 0.404 sprocket. Come to think of it, good luck finding the stock 1/2" sprocket.

You may have better luck finding 1/2" chain. I'm sure that there is someone here who can help you source some.

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looks like 1/2" chain on it now - that's what is on mine. If you can find a .404 sprocket, you could change to to.404 chain and use the same bar - I believe the bar groove is .063. Probably better luck finding 1/2" chain. The chain on it in the photo looks decent - why not just sharpen and use it? The adjuster is missing too.

 

[buzz sawyer]

On a second look, that may be 7/16 or .404 already. Measure across three rivets, center to center, and divide by 2 - that will give you the pitch.
Mine is the gear reduction version and has 1/2" chain.

 

[67L36Driver]

Before you jump thru hoops, get a dial caliper and see what it actually is.

Being a direct drive you may luck out with .404”.

 

[Ndfan6464]

Thanks guys for all the great advice. I do believe its 7/16 pitch. The old timer I got it from believed it to be the orginal chain. But being 90 he couldn't remember.

I'll measure it out tomorrow when I get home from work and report back.

My reason for wanting to change it out is because of it being such a hard size to find. Guess I'd hate to have something happen to it. So figured I'd try and convert it to modern size so I can use it without fear. If I need a new one I could just get one. Make sense?

 

[Remle]

My advice would be to sharpen it as best you can and trim the rakers back farther than you ordinarily would. Those old saws were slow and torquey.

Then, look for a slightly more modern saw. There were a lot of McCullochs and Homelites made in the 60’s and 70’s that are still great saws today. My own experience however is that the saws from the 40’s and 50’s aren’t really something you’d want to make more than a few cuts with.

 

[Justsaws]

That chain has way more life left in it than the average person will have desire to use that saw.

 

[Little Al]

Good day folks. Newbie here so guess I should intro myself before the question. Iam just starting out in the vintage chainsaw world. Got bored with restoring vintage wood working machines and I've always loved chainsaws. So after cruising the forums and being inspired by what I saw and the amount info you all have I figured I'd give it a try. So if I do something newbish please forgive me and set me on the right path.

As far as my question goes. I picked up a Sears/ David Bradley 917.60044 to work on. I know the chain pitch is obsolete and if your lucky to find some its really expensive. So is it possible to convert this saw to modern pitch and if so what needs to be done? Thank you for time and any help.View attachment 682407

Bring up & register on the chain saw collecters.se forum Magnus's site although Swedish is in English & deals with older makes /models of saws

 

[Little Al]

Thanks guys for all the great advice. I do believe its 7/16 pitch. The old timer I got it from believed it to be the orginal chain. But being 90 he couldn't remember.

I'll measure it out tomorrow when I get home from work and report back.

My reason for wanting to change it out is because of it being such a hard size to find. Guess I'd hate to have something happen to it. So figured I'd try and convert it to modern size so I can use it without fear. If I need a new one I could just get one. Make sense?

If the chain you have is near new (Sharpen)or you can source a new one it will give you enough cutting time to look into replacements either same or different size With old models the acquiring of parts requires a goodly amount of patience

 

[pioneerguy600]

As already mentioned, no one would wear that chain out with the little bit of cutting one would really do with this chainsaw. Pitifully slow and the vibration while actually cutting wood will prevent any amount of chain wear, your hands will give up first.

 

[Ndfan6464]

Man where these that rough on the human body when in use? If so, crazy to think that men used them all day back in the days.

I truly appreciate everyone's input and guidance on this. It's my first restoration when it comes to chainsaws. I normally rebuild 20' to 40's era machines. So I am looking forward to branching out.

Any good advice on what I start with first, tips and tricks I am all ears. Should I start a new thread when I start the resto?

 

[kz1000]

Really looks to be in nice shape, good luck with your down hill spiral into the word of chainsaw collecting!

 

[pioneerguy600]

On all the restorations I have done, quite a number by now, I totally strip them down to single components and spend a day or so cleaning and inspecting every part. Make up a list as I go and then the search begins. By the time you do several restorations if like me I have boxes of NOS parts already squirreled away for future rebuilds.

 

[Ndfan6464]

Okay then I was on the right mindset. Was thinking of doing the same. How hard is it to find carburetor rebuild kits for these? Just curious. Haven't had the chance to to try and run it yet. Works got me busy so itll be this weekend when I get a chance too

 

[pioneerguy600]

Real easy.

 

[Little Al]

To the OP you realise the types of saw you are getting into restoreing are either "shelf queening" or 1/2hr running on a summer weekend BBQ as said the saw you have even when up together is slow, vibrates like a bugger & are more temperamental than a child with ASD, interesting but if you are into running at resto end I would suggest more modern & mainstream (Brands still in business) Good luck & enjoy

 

[Ndfan6464]

Yes Sir, I did realize they were slow and little more abusive to use. But I Didnt know they were that bad to run. As this being my first restoration of a chainsaw I figured it would be a good place to start. I still have lots to learn, especially what brands and years are worth restoring and good to use as a go to tool.

when I restore something I like to try my hardest to get back to working conditions. As my knowledge grows I'll dive into the more user friendly saws. I wasn't planning on making it a tool for everyday use.

Plus I am bit of a Craftsman fan so this being a Sears model it would fit in with the rest of my shop. Lol.

I know bit off topic from orginal post but does anyone have a good suggestion of what saw to look for next that would be of the vintage era but a good user?

 

[pioneerguy600]

The later P series Pioneers with rubber AV mounts are good vintage runners. Any old saw without AV system are really a bugger to run any length of time. Homelite and McCulloch made lots of really good saws but if they are solid frame to engine mount they will all be rough to use for extended periods of time.

 

[Little Al]

As PG 600 says any older saw with AV & (I don't know your feelings on with/out Chain brake ) some folk won't run a non fitted saw some of the older Dolmars,114/125, series Olympics, Poulans ,& a bit newer but still historic italian Alpina the deal killer on a lot of these is NLA of parts, in the resto of older saws patience is a necessary part of the thought process + an acquision of available parts at the point of advertising even if you at that time you don't require them, dependent how deep you get into resto's