No idea why the newer chain cuts sooo much better ripping.
Though initially a fan of bigger is better after getting an impossibly good deal on a new 880, my go to milling setup for most logs these days is my old 87cc Stihl 045 Super with a 32" bar. Saving the 880 for the big work. I think a 660 will be plenty for most everything you want to do. Much easier starting it and much lighter to handle lifting on and off the logs. Like I realized in an above post, becoming a master sharpener is about the biggest favor you can do yourself in milling, so you can constantly touch up the chain sharpness while milling. A small bit of extra work that will save you untold hours of labor in the long run.I will be getting a 48” mill with either a ms660 or an 070 that I may possibly upgrade later to an 090 jug(if needed). An 880 or 3120 is just out of the question. I’ll mostly be milling white oak and eucalyptus and the occasional pine/spruce/cedar.
Heard people talk about it but had been satisfied enough with the curved lower guide on my Granberg mill that keeps me from hanging up. Still does periodically though on the irregular wood I mill, so might be worth me giving it a shot. Judging by Granberg's G988 (which I'm not sure they make anymore) all you do is drill some holes further outboard in the lower guide clamp, get some old rollerblade urethane wheels and bearings and attach them to some 2.5-3" long 8mm bolts. Would use 8mm nylon locknuts, one to tighten the bolt to the clamp, and then sandwich the wheel between that and a locknut below it. https://granberg.com/product/g988-10-roller-bracket/"Inboard Rollers" to keep friction down when the chain pulls the saw hard up to the edge ?
Does anybody have pics of what they have used for that modification? I really want to try this!
Greetings from little Barbados. I have been tinkering with saws for a little while (even tried my hand at porting Shinny 488) and I love woodwork. last couple years I have been doing my own milling with a mill that I made from PV racking extrusions. I was looking at rollers too as you mentioned, they may work well but I think I may just stick to the standard skids, got to be better than what I have now (which is nothing). will Likely use 1/8" thick Aluminum bar welded to the clamp like the Granberg. Has anyone here made their own Auxiliary oiler? cheaper than buying the Granberg kit?Looks like Lowes has some sliding patio door rollers that could be modified with a longer bolt
What are everyone’s thoughts on using an 8 pin sprocket for the 40” bar in softer woods or even smaller hardwood? Will the extra chain speed outweigh the loss in power?
Thanks BobL.In say 30” wood, if max power is utilised in both cases, then pin number and chain setup are trade offs. If the chain is optimised for 7 pin and then you switch to 8 pin the power head should bog down, If VV then more dust and less chips should be made. If the chain is optimised for each pin count you should get about the same cut speed. With a 7 pin the chain setup can be a bit more aggressive so with its slower chain speed it removes about the same about of wood as a less aggressive setting when used with the 8pin. Then if you use skip or full comp this changes things again
On my 880 (with mild muffler mod) with the 42" bar I use, 3/8 full comp chain with an 8pin and 6.5º raker angle in much harder wood than anything you guys see in NA. The only time I will swap to a 7 pin with the 42" bar would be for something like Iron bark. Thats about twice as hard green as your hickory is dry. With the 60" bar I use the 7 pin.
Once again, it's possible to optimise both a 404 and a 3/8 to get close to the same cutting speeds.In your opinion, does the 3/8 chain cut faster or smoother than the .404? If so, enough to warrant switching my sprocket noses over? I have two chains for each bar in .404, by the time I’ve wore through those it would be fairly cheap to switch to 3/8 full comp ( then I could buy rolls of chain and make my own loops as all my other saws run that already for firewood)
In terms of cutting speed. in wide, long cuts, I found full chisel cuts like a demon at the beginning but then fades so that it slightly slower at the end of these cuts than semi.Also do you recommend full or semi chisel?