I have a tool box full of the tools dedicated to CS ops and milling that I keep in a tool box in my home shed and always put those tools back in there so I can just pick it up any time and go milling.I have a check list that is a word document that I print out so I can check to make sure I have everything I need loaded in the truck. I wish I had enough duplicate tools to not have to take some out of my milling tool box but such is not the case.
That's way too organized for me but I definitely tips me hat to you!I list everthing I might need including food & water. that way I can check it off and know I didn't leave it sitting on the kitchen counter. I find this list particularly helpful when I havn't been out to mill for several months.
PLUSMilling Check List
075/076 with 42" bar and soon the 880!
051/441 with 24" bar and soon a 660 !
homelite/check with 20" bar
guide board/I use unistrut rails
cordless drill /check
Regular screw driver/check
#2 phillips screw driver/check
carb adjusting screw driver/check
vice grips /check
tape measure /check
wood chisel/ Nope but good idea!
driver tips #2 & #3/check
allen wrench/I take a whole set
ear plugs/Peltor Muffs
Here's a link to a thread showing my modified GB mill.
As you can see I'm using a through bolt on the roller nose so I can change chains without dismounting the saw.
Anybody have pics of oil reservoirs you made? I'd rather trade money for time and just buy one but need to keep cost down pending some head cutting at my company withing next 4-5 weeks. Never know. Anyway I saw aggies ball valve from a bathroom sink but didn't see the whole unit. I was thinking of an aluminum oxygen bottle cut down what capacity is optimal?
My reservoir is just made from a 3" PVC pipe, cap and clean-out.
I reckon somewhere around a quart works pretty well.
I emptied, stripped, and inverted an old fire extinguisher, put a ball valve on the neck and a hose leading to a fitting on the bar, and cut a hole in the bottom (now top) of the fire extinguisher as a fill point. Cost: $0
This post is about bar noses and oiler delivery points. Look at post number 3Nice-that would be easy too.
Nice examples-I'll have to see what's lying around. What point is optimal to drop the oil down onto?
Was thinking seam on nose between rails and chain-almost 1/8" gap there on a new rollernose. Guess I could do a paper test and see how much oil flings off at certain points but you guys probably have this nailed already. Drip rate for 36-42" bars? I'll look at pics again. Be nice to segment a thread into categories so info isn't spread all over. Thks
Here some pics of the oiler. I have since drilled the bar and have the oil going directly into the roller nose but I can't find the pics.
The large section of hose just below the valve acts like an IV drip so I can see exactly how much oil is being delivered.
Ah ha . . so its more or less identical to a "bolts onto the bar at both ends" with no bar underclamps, type alaskan?
I also thought your sawdust guard was connected to your saw but I see it is not, does much sawdust sneak past the edge of the guard?
My new 880 setup has also got a little away from the original BIL Mill connection (plus more sexy ally work courtesy of BIL!) I ended up using a longer support plate because the 880 is longer at the front of the saw than the 076 so I had to move it back from the mill a bit to get it to fit.