Cuts wander on thicker logs

[golem]

Attempts to cut anything larger than 4" in diameter has the saw blade wandering to the left (clockwise). Ultimately this results in binding of the chain/bar. This same tendency to rotate is noted on both down and up cuts, although counter-clockwise on the latter.

The saw in question is just a cheap consumer grade Poulan 2150. Everything looks to be in alignment and nothing seems twisted. The blade is adjusted, albeit a bit duller than it should be at the moment. I've had this little-used saw for a number of years and it has always exhibited this "problem" but was not a major concern as it's mostly used on 3" in diameter and smaller branches. Currently though it's being tasked with 6"-10" tree felling so the need for fixing has finally come.

Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Terry

 

[stihl sawing]

Bar is bent or chain is sharper on one side. Bar rail could be wore out too and letting the chain run crooked in the rails.

 

[KMB]

I'd get the chain sharpened. If you sharpen your own chain(s), you might be getting the cutters on one side sharper than the other. Someone will be along shortly to add (or to correct) my info.

Kevin

 

[LouieIV]

I'm pretty much a newbie, but I've read that if the chain isn't sharpened evenly it can cause the saw to pull one or the other direction.

The teeth alternate which side they are on. If you hand file the chain and are inexperienced or just don't have that touch that some do you can easily sharpen one side more than the other. Over time this can cause the pulling you describe.

It could also be a worn bar. If the grove is overly worn the chain won't sit vertical in it.

-LouieIV

 

[LouieIV]

Bar is bent or chain is sharper on one side.

I'd get the chain sharpened. If you sharpen your own chain(s), you might be getting the cutters on one side sharper than the other. Someone will be along shortly to add (or to correct) my info.

Kevin

Dang you guys are fast.

 

[golem]

Wow! Looks like I hit upon a quality forum!

Thanks so much for the lightning quick replies...along with the consensus. I'll definitely take a closer look at the bar/rail while I'm getting the chain pro sharpened (or pick up a new one).

Appreciate the input.
Terry

 

[Creeker]

Hey Golem, also get the cutter bar dressed, this will take the burr off the sides and make sure both sides of the groove are the same height. Yr. chainsaw shop will probably have a large bench mounted belt sander to do this job, its not expensive, and you could do it with a file at home, don't cut yourself on the burr though.
Good luck mate.

 

[GASoline71]

There is definately an issue with chain sharpness, or a bent bar. A saw shouldn't pull either way... especially in wood no more than 10" in size...

It's easy to not have one side of the chain as sharp as the other when you are first starting out attempting to sharpen your own chains. Also check the bar for straightness, and see if the rails are worn unevenly. This will cause the chain to ride unevenly forcing the saw to cut crooked.

Check the bar nuts and make sure they are snugged down... no gorrilla torque is needed on bar nuts. Also make sure your chain is not overtightened... if the chain is too tight it will cause heat, and can aid in the saw binding and cuttin' crooked...

Gary

 

[Mike Van]

Terry, the bars sometimes get a burr along the rail, you can feel it, see it if it's big enough - You can take the burr off with the bar in a vise & a good file. Every few sharpenings, flip the bar & use the other edge - The writing's upside down then, but they last twice as long.

 

[oldirty]

rakers? did you take them down unevenly? uneven rakers will have you cutting in circle's. or your bar is bunged up.

 

[treeclimber jul]

You said the saw has "and it has always exhibited this "problem" " When new.
Maybe the chain was never the right gage to begin with, All the rest of the suggestions are good, but while you are in the shop have them see if the chain is the right match for the bar.

With the chain on the bar, try moving it side to side, there should be vary little play.

welcome to AS

 

[golem]

I have a little feedback...the good, the bad, and the ugly.

Making use of the plethora of knowledge so freely offered here I figured I'd make a cursory inspection of all the parts in question. First thing I noticed was the very uneven heights of the rails of the bar. It was worn so much more on one side that it was easily detected, possibly a good .020"-.030" in difference. This was combined with a bit of a bur running the length. I could also see one rail was thinner than the other (even after removal of the bur) which I'm assuming is indicative of wear on the inside face of that particular rail. Also checked was the chain to bar channel free-play. The chain is .050" while the channel is .065". With this .015" wiggle room there is some side-to-side play of the chain but doesn't seem excessive, keeping in mind I'm not too chainsaw astute. Aside from these faults I could find no bends or twists in the bar (machine shop flat surfaces used for inspection).

Having identified the above mentioned items I decided it might be worth giving it a go at tuning up what I can and see what happens. Well, I made a jig and got those rail heights nice and even, removed the burs and, gave the chain a quick four even shots on each cutter followed by a final tension adjustment.

With confidence I took her outside, found a nice 8" greenie left over from our tree-snapping storm of last week, and had at it. Beautiful full chips were flying out but sadly, as she continued gnawing away, her old habits come to light. To the left, to the left, to the left.

All in all it was worth the try but in the end it's to the shop she goes. Just wish it were a saw worthy of spending money on. Probably cost more for a quality bar and chain (if required) than I originally paid for this one-step-up-from-electric saw.

Almost forgot, to address oldirty on rakers. The saw has been used very little over the 4-5 years I've owned it and has had only a few 3-5 swipe sharpenings. I expect not enough to warrant addressing the rakes, plus, I don't have a gauge.

Thanks again everyone for your input and suggestions. This has definitely been the most active board of any kind I've had the pleasure of using. Can't believe I didn't get hassled considering it's a 2150.

Cheers,
Terry

 

[slowp]

I'd take it to the PNW get together and give it to gologit. He'll cut straight with it and then pronounce it is you, not the saw. Which was not a surprise in my case.

 

[Gologit]

I'd take it to the PNW get together and give it to gologit. He'll cut straight with it and then pronounce it is you, not the saw. Which was not a surprise in my case.

I knew that would get me in trouble. No good deed goes unpunished.

 

[JLROOT]

"Four even shots on each cutter?" Were they sharp afterward? My Grandpa told me to always take same number of strokes on each tooth. Don't believe that for one minute!! Sharpen until each tooth is sharp. Watch your angles from one side of the chain to another.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

The chain is .050" while the channel is .065"

Either the bar is WAY worn or your have 50 ga chain in a 63 ga bar. That will cause it to run crooked too. Figure out which is the case and either buy a new bar or a new chain of the correct guage or pitch them both out and buy a bar and a chain that matches.

Ian

 

[g.moore]

Personally I would say it's the saw. Before I get flamed, this happened on my now DOA Crapsman. I bought a new Oregon B&C set, cut crooked out of the box. Exchanged them for another set, same thing. Bought an OEM set from Sears, same thing. I finally gave up, figuring it must be the saw after going through 3 B&C sets. The 025 cuts straight. The 051 cuts straight. The 455 cuts crooked only when I use the dogs, if I hold the dogs back from the wood it cuts straight.

 

[Creeker]

I reckon H.H. could be on the money!

OR

It would be interesting for the average length of the teeth on each side to be accurately measured.

A lot of blokes (R/handed ones like me) find it easier to file the teeth on the right side, & hence the L side teeth are longer, have more cutting area above the depth gauges (aka as rakers) and cut more wood, thus - pulling the bar to the left in the cut.

 

[Tazman1602]

Attempts to cut anything larger than 4" in diameter has the saw blade wandering to the left (clockwise). Ultimately this results in binding of the chain/bar. This same tendency to rotate is noted on both down and up cuts, although counter-clockwise on the latter.

The saw in question is just a cheap consumer grade Poulan 2150. Everything looks to be in alignment and nothing seems twisted. The blade is adjusted, albeit a bit duller than it should be at the moment. I've had this little-used saw for a number of years and it has always exhibited this "problem" but was not a major concern as it's mostly used on 3" in diameter and smaller branches. Currently though it's being tasked with 6"-10" tree felling so the need for fixing has finally come.

Any suggestion would be much appreciated.

Cheers
Terry

You've gotten some good suggestions, make sure the cutting teeth are the same length. Take a chain to someone with a grinder who can straighten it up for you if the bar/rails aren't bad.

...and if it's got that stupid semi-skip safety chain on it that they come with -- Throw that chain away and get an Oregon bar/chain, about $30.

I work for a Landscaping company in the summer and we usually buy six new Poulans every year. "Wild Things" the last couple of years. They are "throw away" saws. I keep them running all summer but by the end of summer they are just plain wore-a** out.

The guys use these saws for stump removal, cutting landscape timbers, and anything else they can find. They plunge the bars into the dirt but that's the point of buying $100 saw. In spite of Poulan's bad rep, for what they are used for, those saws run a long time and are pretty reliable.

Another thing I've run into is whoever is adjusting the carbs at the factory doesn't have a clue as to what they are doing. Some of them have been so rich out of the box they won't run. There are special tools you can buy in order to adjust them.


:greenchainsaw:

 

[Dibbs]

I had a second hand bar lying about which I had bought in a job lot, I tried it on the 070 but it ran so crooked in a 10 inch log it would get stuck.
Turned out one of the bar rails was worn much more than the other which ran the chain a bit twisted, bar rail dressing later and it cuts perfectly.