cutter injury

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i appreciate the feed back on this thread becouse i had this exact same thing happen to me a #of years ago and could never figure out what i done wrong. the only thing that was different was mine as you all call it barber chaired the second i started the back cut. how ever i had a big tree beside me to hide behind when it happened and the thought had crossed my mind that something like that could happened. have a nice day
 
It's nice when you have some tree to work with also.
You make that bore cut leaving the bar in the bore, move towards the hinge then back the bar up cutting away from the hinge .
Leave sufficient holding wood at the back, pull the bar out and cut the holding wood from the back side of the tree.
They usually let go fast.
Always use the bottom of the bar to start your bore.
If and when you ever have a barber chair, don`t think twice about it.
Leave the saw and get out of there fast.
 
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I've cut this same tree down many times as I'm sure most of you have. I have never used a bore cut. I see the advantages to a bore, and I'm sure I'll start using it more going forward, but I see a slow/incomplete backcut as the problem here more than anything else. I bet 1/2 in into the back cut he heard snaping and saw the tree moving so he (being inexperienced) thought that the tree was on its way down so he stopped cutting.

Visualize your hinge prior to cutting, cut fast to create that hinge, and get the hell out of the way.

Greg
 
Chainsaw Training/Felling

Hey Guys!

After reading a few threads on here and noticing how many unexperienced fallers are out there I thought maybe some of you would be interested in the following:

Samsel LTD Sawmill and Sawshop along with Forever Green Forestry will be hosting a number of classes this spring into early summer. The instructor will be Ken Lallemont of Timber Resources, LLC. This guy is ???? good at what he does and very intelligent. This class is hands on learning and you will be running a chainsaw and falling some trees. Class size is limited to 10-12 people.

Here are the class dates:
Feb 8 Level 1 $20.00
March 8 Level 2 $80.00
March 22 Level 1 $20.00
April 5 Level 3 $80.00
April 26 Level 2 $80.00
May 3 Level 3 $80.00
May 19 Logger Training (Call 1-800-551-2656 to register)
June 7 Level 4 $80.00

All classes are held at Samsel LTD located outside of Hancock, WI. Contact Paul Ahlen at [email protected] or call him at 715-249-5602 for more information etc. All classes start at 8 AM. Bring a lunch and PPE. If you don't have any PPE they will provide you with some. You do cut rain or shine so dress appropriately.

I attended level one last spring and learned so much. Ken is a great instructor. As far as I know you will prob be falling some small diameter pine but I know Ken talked about getting into some hardwoods...just have to wait and see!! I will be attending the rest this spring so I hope to see some of you up in Hancock.

Be safe out there
 
More Info

I am sure many of you have heard of FISTA or the Forestry Industry Safety Training Alliance, INC but if not they offer many classes also regarding logging etc. Here is their web site:

www.newnorth.net/fista/
 
are you guys familier with technic of felling leaners called the 'dogs tooth cut' its standerd practice over here..its simple and idiot proof
 
here a Technique we use overhere in the UK for all leaning trees its called a 'dog tooth cut' ..its simple to do and works everytime.i have included a diagram and yes the two back cuts do overlap usualy by the time the two cuts meet its over she goes anyway


1; face cut as usual

2,bore cut leaving several inches of holding wood [amount depends on size and lean of timber]

3, angle cut meeting bore cut ,cut through fast and accurate

4, bingo never another barbers chair
 
to be perfectly honest i have no idea ,this has come to my mind a few times but when i was at college this was how we where taught.i have used this cut lots of times and i havent thought about changeing it ..but now you have brought the question up i will look into it further ..unless someone else on here can tell me the advantage of an angled cut..by the way the chap who taught me the technique is known as one of the best hard wood loggers in the country
 
Probably the (supposed) reason for the angle cut is to avoid having the saw get snatched when the holding wood goes.  I don't see it, though.  The final cut should be made below the bore cut (for safety) and it should be parallel to it (perpendicular to the stem axis) (for expediency/safety).

Glen
 
Very good discussion, now let me say something, not familiar with much ash, though the dia. of this tree it seems that murphy has a sound assesment, the faceon this tree is problematic at best, what size/sharpness of saw was being used, cause a good level face and a lower backcut may have had a different outcome, also sometimes instead of taking a head leaner with its favor a swing cut can also prvent a barberchair, using this alot on heavy alders with a great deal of sucess. that ground looked favorable, alot of places ijhn the West arent conducive to good esxcape routes and sometimes the fastest attack is the best. The fundamental mistake here was with the Bullbuck this guy should have been under supervision or at least been given some groundrules. I use the boring backcut often, bore the face alot and use the Coos Bay cut alot. But I wonder why a proper face/backcut with a good sharp saw couldnt have gotten this tree down better?
 
Maybe the angled cut in Rolly's post (the felling cut) is intended to help prevent the falling stem from kicking back over the stump? May be effective in a few cases, but probably not a majority of drops.
 

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