Cutting consistent firewood lengths

[Joe Kidd]

For those who are anal about cutting consistent lengths of firewood like myself, what method gives you the most speed? BTW I typically cut everything 16"
I cut a few cords to sell, and my thinking is "take it or leave it".

 

[turnkey4099]

I've tried all the methods over the years, mark the log before beginning cuttin, flip/flop saw and eyeball on the bar, carry a marking stick to guage each cut (that's my current method), cut-off guage on the saw. None of them will give you a 'perfect' 16" IME. I am satisfied to hold the lengths +/- 1" althoughI usually come closer than that.

Harry K

 

[Mac88]

For those who are anal about cutting consistent lengths of firewood like myself, what method gives you the most speed? BTW I typically cut everything 16"
I cut a few cords to sell, and my thinking is "take it or leave it".

My bucking saw has an 18" bar. I use that as a quick gauge and just back off a couple inches for a 16" cut.
You could always paint a 16" stripe on your bar. I usually run down the log and put a shallow cut every 16"
then go back and buck it up.

 

[T. Mainus]

Bailey's - The Mingo Marker Firewood Marker


I don't go out in the woods without mine anymore. Cutting mostly crowns, it is very easy to mark out a bunch and then have at it.

Tom

 

[Laroo]

Spencer logging tape and lumber crayon, everybody gives me a hard time, but it all fits in the stove, and the woodbox, not to mention it stacks better when everything is the same length.

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Practice

Years of practice cutting 25 to 50+ cord per year. Once your eye is trained you're good to go regardless of what saw and bar length you're using.

I always say if you're selling CSD, miss to the short side. If you miss 1/4 inch long and the customer can't get his stove door closed on one piece you'll never hear the end of how you sold them X number of cords of wood all cut too long. If the customer requires a specific maximum length use a Sharpie and a straight edge to mark a line on the splitter beam 1/4 inch shy of that length. When placing the round on the splitter if it extends past the mark set it aside. When you can't see the line anymore just redo with the Sharpie.

Take Care

 

[ShaneLogs]

Yes, If you are good at you don't need a tape or anything. I usually try to cut mine around 16". The little ends get stacked in the pile for the firepit.

 

[Laroo]

I got in the habit of measuring and marking all of my cuts years ago while cutting logs for cellar timbers, ( timbers for the construction of potato cellars) they had to be a min 30' six inches short and that $150.00 log became blocks in a load of $45.00 a cord firewood. It was a mistake I only made once! I suppose old habits die hard.

 

[J1m]

Measure from the end of your bar toward the power head to your 16" (or whatever length you need). Take the trusty $.99 Sharpie out of your junk drawer and mark the bar (or side case of the saw, whichever is appropriate).

If you're cutting from the left side of the log, with the tip of the bar at the end of the log - swing the saw 1/4 turn and your cut is directly under the aforementioned Sharpie mark....If you're cutting from the right side of the log, swing your saw 1/4 turn with the Sharpie mark at the end of the log - your cut is directly at the end of your bar.

Guys that absolutely, positively MUST have a mark ON the log...Well, this method probably isn't for them...But in my experience you can always find a sawdust chip, piece of moss or other bark imperfection to use as your "mark". 35ish cords using this method last year and the Sharpie marks are still on my saws...And all of my wood is the same length!

 

[BarkBuster20]

you can eyeball firewood well if you are cutting wood that is all close in diameter. If you go from eyeballing 10" stuff to 30" wood, your probly gonna mess up. i usually use my bar, or chalk or a fat crayon to mark it all off. I try to not cut anything smaller then 14" in dia just because i dont wanna take too much time measuring and cutting, i prefer the big rounds. when you look at how much wood you get off a 20" round, its definitely worth measuring. i like nice stacks.

 

[Streblerm]

I only cut wood for myself so I don't worry about it too much, especially on the smaller stuff. As long as it fits in the stove it's good for me. On the 20"+ diameter stuff I will sometimes measure and mark. I carry an old tape measure and a can of marking paint in my firewood hauler.

 

[BarkBuster20]

I only cut wood for myself so I don't worry about it too much, especially on the smaller stuff. As long as it fits in the stove it's good for me. On the 20"+ diameter stuff I will sometimes measure and mark. I carry an old tape measure and a can of marking paint in my firewood hauler.

Yeah...but think of how much prettier your stacks could be...sometimes after i add a row onto my stack ill just sit there, and stare, and fondle my saw...and drink a beer.

 

[stihl023/5]

I bought a round flat magnet with a hole in the center then cut a damaged aluminum arrow to 16" and screwed it on using the tip of the arrow. Simply stick it on the bar and nick the log to mark lengths drop it off and cut away. Just be carefull around loose bark. Cheap and works great

 

[Whitespider]

Ummmm.......
Well, here's 6 pages on that subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/192347.htm

 

[BarkBuster20]

Ummmm.......
Well, here's 6 pages on that subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/firewood-heating-wood-burning-equipment/192347.htm

 

[Mac88]

It seems like some folks make this a lot more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be.
Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose, but I'm all about quick and dirty. Yea, I have some crooked stacks
and my splits aren't all nice and consistent size, but they all heat the house, and that's what works for me.
If it's not rotten, or treated with something nasty, it goes in the stove.

 

[Coldfront]

I don't sell wood but if my stove max log length is 18" I cut by eye to 16" that gives me a 2" margin of error. I very rarely go over 18" it is amazing how good you get at eyeballing 16" + or - a 1/2". On the rare occasion I go over 18" I just put the piece in diagonally.

 

[stihly dan]

It seems like some folks make this a lot more complicated and time consuming than it needs to be.
Whatever floats yer boat, I suppose, but I'm all about quick and dirty. Yea, I have some crooked stacks
and my splits aren't all nice and consistent size, but they all heat the house, and that's what works for me.
If it's not rotten, or treated with something nasty, it goes in the stove.

I'm surprised you haven't had an issue with your stacks, being years ahead as you are. I have done the eyeball route, and it seems after 2 yrs the stacks really want to fall. Now that there all the same size, the stacks are nice and solid. No space for the wood to shift. My stacks are typically 5'w 6'h 8'-25'L

 

[Coldfront]

What does having them all the exact same length have to do with no space for the wood to shift? My stacks start to lean do to not having a solid ground foundation and settling. Nothing to do with length. If I catch them leaning I straighten them out by tapping the ends with a maul, works good.

 

[Zeus103363]

I use and old golf club shaft for measuring my firewood length. 21" is what I cut. My insert will take up to 24", but just I case my dad needs some wood I cut to the same length he uses. There is a black tape ring on the shaft, and a can of spray paint to mark the wood. Aside from marking the wood length, I have had to press the golf club into service on more than one occasion to take care of a snake too! Has served my needs for probably 10 years. My dad cut the shaft off just a little so it fits inside the rack on the atv. It usually goes on atv rides too. I usually take it with me on those early scouting missions to the deer woods too. Great walking stick! If I loose it I will have to have another!