Dang, Tillotson/Homelite has me stumped and mad!

Treestuff
Shop deals on ebay
Wesspur
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got a few minutes to reinstall the new governor and try the saw again.

It runs ok with the H screw turned all the way in. Seems a little rich yet as I had to push it into the wood to get it to clean all the way out. It was only a 12" maple though so not much of a challange for this beast.

I got some 24" oak out back to give it a better test.

Why did this thing start acting like this all of a sudden? More then one member here has run this saw before and they will tell you it was fine.

Why has this not came to light before with all of the 925's owned by members here. Brad had one that he modded and I'm sure if this
H screw is supposed to be closed he would have had trouble with it?

I guess I'll just put it back in the shop with the Poulans, Partners and Husky's so they can laugh and make fun of it. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Sounds like Joyce is sending me some documentation on this situation with this HS carb and I will get it scanned and post it here for all the other members.

I got to thinking, if that main nozzle check valve is what drives this fiasco, why could I not replace it with a non check valve nozzle? If I did, I would think that this carb would adjust like normal then.

My Poulan HS's like the 168A and 176A use a brass main nozzle that I think may not have a check valve in them. I can't find a listing for the IPL on those carbs though to get a part # for that nozzle.

The only other difference then would be the H&L needle spacing on them but I seen some Husky HS's that have the close spacing without a main needle check valve I do believe.
 
Here is the pictures mostly for Jerry to see.

The complete carb is a HS 176A and you can see the brass nozzle in it without a hole in the center of it.

The other pictures show the brass main nozzle thats so called a check valve. You can see the hole in the center of it that would seem to make it act like a fixed jet.

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php

attachment.php
 
Modifiedmark said:
Why did this thing start acting like this all of a sudden? More then one member here has run this saw before and they will tell you it was fine.
Click to expand...

Because you tryed to sell it.:cry: LoL

I had 925's bought new, ran them for years and don't remember setting
H screw at 0 to get it to run right.
 
Mark do you have the PDF manual for the HS carb? i was just reading threw it and it says in BOLD LETTERS...

H = 1-1/4
L = 1

It also says this in the troubleshooting section.

Carb runs rich with high speed mix screw closed ---> The 7/32 “ diameter nozzle welch plug, or nozzle check valve cage, is not sealing. ---> Install new plug or new cage.
 
Last edited:
Mr. Bow Saw said:
Because you tryed to sell it.:cry: LoL

I had 925's bought new, ran them for years and don't remember setting
H screw at 0 to get it to run right.
Click to expand...

Yeah I guess your right, I guess it liked it here after all. I just figured I myself would never really use it much again, I would just sell it to make some more room here and let someone else enjoy the raw power it puts out.

Your right about the 0 out, I had 4 of these at one time last summer and none of them tuned any different then the others.

Wildman1024 said:
Mark do you have the PDF manual for the HS carb? i was just reading threw it and it says in BOLD LETTERS...

H = 1-1/4
L = 1

It also says this in the troubleshooting section.

Carb runs rich with high speed mix screw closed ---> The 7/32 “ diameter nozzle welch plug, or nozzle check valve cage, is not sealing. ---> Install new plug or new cage.
Click to expand...

Yes I did read that! I installed a new nozzle check valve did I not?

At this point I'm still not convinced that the new one is not defective. Problem is I never had to mess with a nozzle check valve before so I'm not sure and don't have another carb here like this one to compare it to.

I'm thinking of trying some way to close that hole in the top of it off on the old one and just see what happens if reinstall it in that carb. I'm betting it will fix it and adjust out like normal..
 
Mark, the nozzle you have is for the HS 195A with a .027 jet
The one for your carb is a 363-528 that has no jet size mentioned so maybe it does not have a jet hole but acts like a plug and you run the carb off its mixture needle settings.
Did your original nozzle have a jet hole in it? Ok just read back from the beginning and it did have a jet but no check
Pioneerguy600
 
Last edited:
This is turning out just like the Walbro mysteries I solved a few years back when those carbs started giving everyone around here fits. It was a similar problem with getting the correct nozzles into each carb. Those lil buggers gave some shops fits and more foul language than a handful of sailors could muster in a lifetime, saws getting tossed out the door or over the top of the woodpile etc. Well for the most part we got that settled down and the carbs and saws back up and working.
Pioneerguy600
 
pioneerguy600 said:
Mark, the nozzle you have is for the HS 195A with a .027 jet
The one for your carb is a 363-528 that has no jet size mentioned so maybe it does not have a jet hole but acts like a plug and you run the carb off its mixture needle settings.
Did your original nozzle have a jet hole in it? Ok just read back from the beginning and it did have a jet but no check
Pioneerguy600
Click to expand...

Jerry, that nozzle that I took a photo of is the orginal that came out of this carb, a HS151B. That 363-544 nozzle check valve is what was listed in the HS parts list from the Tillotson website that I downloaded quite some time ago.

Just so you know the new 363-544 nozzle is indentical to the one in the photograph and is already in the carb and running just like the original, like crap.
 
8800--only runs well at 1/4 out.

Glad to read this thread today. I'm a rookie saw mechanic, but I've been messing w/ a Homelite 8800 that I bought at a going-out-of-business pawn shop last week. The saw seems perfect, but I can only get it to run strongly at about 1/4 to 1/3 out. I'm worried that it shouldn't be run this way, yet it sounds good and cuts well. The carb is a walbro WJ-60.

Anyway, I'll be lurking to see what solutions you come up with.
 
I bought a New 8800 about 10 years ago and had a similar problem. Ken Dunn had told me that the carb has an additional jet that acts like a governor, something that was probably used on the MP-88 concrete saw. I opened up the carb and silicone the .020" hole shut. It has run great even since, and the High screw is about 1 1/4 turns out.

Good luck!, Jonathan
 
It's fixed

It's fixed. Damn Homelite should have known better then to tick off a old redneck.. :cheers:

Just as I suspected, it was drawing all that fuel through that main nozzle hole. I think there is supposed to be some sort of check valve in it for sure and I think the new one I got was defective as well.

No other reason for me to have this saw run perfect the last year or two that I have had it. I ran this saw quite a bit also. I will withhold final judgment till I see that Homelite document that Joyce is sending me.

You guys need to rep here all you can.

The fix was that I sealed that hole in the top of the nozzle with a small dab of Seal All glue. This stuff is gasoline resistent and I have a few Poulan 3400's with the Homelite duckbills glued on inside there gas tanks with it and this stuff has not disolved yet.

I would still like to come up with a regular nozzle without a check valve to put in it though.


I set it at 1 1/4 out on the H needle and it was pretty close right there. It four strokes a little at WOT and cleans right out and sings as soon as you drop it in the wood. Just like it is suppose to and just like it aways used to.

I may nitpick a few faults on these Homelite SXL-925's but you will never hear me say that they have not enough power. This ole SOB pulls like a freight train, and a fast train at that.
 
Last edited:
HomeDelight Man said:
I bought a New 8800 about 10 years ago and had a similar problem. Ken Dunn had told me that the carb has an additional jet that acts like a governor, something that was probably used on the MP-88 concrete saw. I opened up the carb and silicone the .020" hole shut. It has run great even since, and the High screw is about 1 1/4 turns out.

Good luck!, Jonathan
Click to expand...


What type of silicone did you use that would hold up to constant gas exposure?

Curious minds want to know.. :)
 
Wildman1024 said:
Glad you got it figured out Mark. Now go ahead and get it boxed up...You know the address. :cheers: :givebeer:
Click to expand...

Yep I got your address and your number as well LOL.

You also have my address, just sign that check, leave the rest of it blank and send it to me. :cheers::cheers::cheers:

We will see what happens to it, but more then likely it will be getting a new home anyway.
 
Modifiedmark said:
Yep I got your address and your number as well LOL.

You also have my address, just sign that check, leave the rest of it blank and send it to me. :cheers::cheers::cheers:

We will see what happens to it, but more then likely it will be getting a new home anyway.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you leave me a little for fuel after you fill in the check :cheers:

I have a beautiful NEW SugiHara 24" bar that would looks slick on that thing! hehe
 

Similar threads

Sameoldclifford
Stihl MS250 - Leaking seals mimic carburetor problems
Replies
1
Views
1K
pioneerguy600
pioneerguy600
Patrick62
carby cause it do drop dead?
Replies
1
Views
462
thompsoncustom
thompsoncustom
C
Homelite 360 Keeps Flooding Out
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
hotshot
hotshot
O
MS361 help, saw will not stay running!
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
James.Morris609
James.Morris609
B
Stihl 026 (1998 Model) has no impulse going to the carburetor
Replies
6
Views
570
irhunter
irhunter

Latest posts

Back
Top