Dead MS361

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For one thing, NEVER USE an ether type 4-Stroke STARTING FLUID IN A 2-Stroke! That is a good way to score the engine because it does not have any lube in it.

As we also own and operate several diesel engines, Henry, I've always been tentative when it comes to starting fluid. It becomes a necessary evil at times, however, so I simply go very sparingly with it. I did a search on the web and, yes, there is more than one "Stihl flooding" article that recommends the use of starting fluid. Is there such a thing as two-cycle starting fluid? This would make a very interesting topic in its own right. ;)

You were the first to mention it, Brad, so I'll ask you first … Are there aftermarket "modded" mufflers available for the MS361? I'd also be interested in knowing what a "Snellerized" saw is.

Thanks again for your time :clap:
 
Are there aftermarket "modded" mufflers available for the MS361?[/I] I'd also be interested in knowing what a "Snellerized" saw is.

1 - No there are not. You must build one.
2 - A saw woods-ported by Brad Snelling.
 
In short, performance engine work.

Cylinder port modifications, piston shaping and lightening, timing advance, muffler mod, and maybe some other stuff. Depends on the builder. Different classes of service.
 
To answer some noob questions here:

There are custom modified mufflers available for the 361, by the likes of Wojo on Ebay. His is a Lakeside Andy brazed tube muffler mod design.

Snellerized is a term for a Brad Snelling modified saw. MM is either a muffler mod, or a MasterMind (Randy) modified saw. Brad and Randy are but two of the many saw builders out there. They use different methods of modifications, and there are different levels that they go to.

Woods ported saws are moderately modified saws intended to be used for long hours, rather than race ported saws that are more highly modified saws intended only to be used short term in races.

Never believe everything you read on the internet, and do not use starting fluid in a 2-stroke engine, or you will risk scoring the engine.

As the search engine here is funky with all the AS issues of late, here is a simple StihlBilly shark gill 361 muffler mod. It can also be screened over and a Husky muffler baffle riveted or screwed into place on top of it. They are very effective, and are easy and quick to do. The USA version 361 has a very choked up muffler, and they run better, start easier, run stronger, and run cooler after being opened up slightly. Just cut slits in the side with a Dremel rotary tool, and lever them open with a flat screwdriver. This location seems to be about the best for this saw.

361 Hillbilly muffler mod.jpg
 
As we also own and operate several diesel engines, Henry, I've always been tentative when it comes to starting fluid. It becomes a necessary evil at times, however, so I simply go very sparingly with it. I did a search on the web and, yes, there is more than one "Stihl flooding" article that recommends the use of starting fluid. Is there such a thing as two-cycle starting fluid? This would make a very interesting topic in its own right. ;)

You were the first to mention it, Brad, so I'll ask you first … Are there aftermarket "modded" mufflers available for the MS361? I'd also be interested in knowing what a "Snellerized" saw is.

Thanks again for your time :clap:
I have used starting fluid on 2 strokes with out any issues. Mostly to see if they will fire at all. I have seen a old snowmobile pro that would spray a little wd 40 in the cylinders and pull it over slow a couple times to lubricate it and then use the starting fluid. Seems like a safe way of doing it.
 
You guys that are so concerned about starting fluid need to note the contents. When I was younger, starting fluid for the most part was pure ether. Maybe because people were chuffing it to get high or whatever, pure ether starting fluid hasn't been seen by me for quite some years (maybe more than ten). Every can of starting fluid I have purchased in the last five years or more has been a mixture of flammable stuff and they ALL have top lubricant in them for the protection of the engine. My contention is that using starting fluid to see if a saw will pop (like testing a new acquisition that doesn't have fuel in it) is perfectly fine and the dire threats of scored cylinders, etc. are largely based on old info. fwiw. Check your starting fluid cans and see if any of you have pure ether or have some with no lubricant. (I'm curious)
 
That's preposterous. Just remove it and plug the dang thang. I hate it rigged up.

Yah know, I get more shyte responses every time I post this fact. Its just what they did. Simple, no tools or parts required except wire cutters to cut the zip ties, could be done on the fly with no cost involved, and it was a solution to the problem. If you have ever worked in public service, you do not usually get to work with what you like. You get to work with what they have. Often times equipment is second rate, outdated, broken, or just plain stupid. But that's what it is, an that is how they solved it.
 
Hey, Brush Ape. What's the story on that cool looking firewood processor in your signature space? I'd love to learn more about it.
 
You guys that are so concerned about starting fluid need to note the contents. When I was younger, starting fluid for the most part was pure ether. Maybe because people were chuffing it to get high or whatever, pure ether starting fluid hasn't been seen by me for quite some years (maybe more than ten). Every can of starting fluid I have purchased in the last five years or more has been a mixture of flammable stuff and they ALL have top lubricant in them for the protection of the engine. My contention is that using starting fluid to see if a saw will pop (like testing a new acquisition that doesn't have fuel in it) is perfectly fine and the dire threats of scored cylinders, etc. are largely based on old info. fwiw. Check your starting fluid cans and see if any of you have pure ether or have some with no lubricant. (I'm curious)

the best I found is John Deere and it's 80% with upper lube, I think they all have it.
but 100% I have not seen for years
so we save the John Deere for seating beads on tires;)
and use the cheaper stuff for washing parts, hands, and starting diesels
 

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