Dealer told me that my muffler mod was worthless

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There you go thats the same saw modded by Timberwolf Im betting its cutting nearer to 13000rpm than 9500.
Looks like the ported cut twice as fast going by the times.

Probably not just a muffler mod......:laugh::laugh::laugh:

:cheers:
 
my dealer

So he basically just lost himself another customer because YOU do what YOU want with YOUR own stuff? Around here dealers will take any saw and fix it no matter what you do to it.

Yup that's the way my dealers are. I brought my muffler modded 066 to show him how she looked after I resurected it. He said lol "it's got two big smoke stacks.." I said heh heh "those smoke stacks are power stacks." He said start her up I wanna run er'. So we went to the back to the test log and he buried the bar in it and when it just kept going, when he thaught it was gonna lug down he got a big ole smile on his face..an said "that SOB right there cuts man.." I said "yea that's that muffler mod talkin." Now when I go there, that's all he wants to talk about is modden saws...lol:greenchainsaw:
 
My dealer kind of seemed like they were against modding the muffler but not enough to act like that d'bag. I bought the parts from them today to do the muffler mod for the 361 on this site.

I guess they sort of have to be loyal to the EPA, or at least some of them think so....:confused:
 
Dyno is the ultimate tuning tool atleast for cars.


With saws as well, comparing saws with one cutting attachment, in one size and kind of wood sure has its limitations....

....sure it is "real-world" - but still just a snapshot of one situation.
 
Or they think if it works dont touch it not sure though I didnt talk too much with them about it. They are good guys tho and seem to have good prices.
 
There you go thats the same saw modded by Timberwolf Im betting its cutting nearer to 13000rpm than 9500.
Looks like the ported cut twice as fast going by the times.

I'm not convince it is closer to 13k rpm, it sounds more like 10-11k to me but I'd like to see a cutting tacho reading before I'd believe it. Both saws hits 13k+ when the saw is accelerated at the start of each clip but then both saws drop off RPMs significantly when they start cutting. The modified saw clearly cuts faster even at about the same rpm clearly showing the improved torque even at the reduced rpm
 
I took my saw (064) into the dealer to ask him a question about someting. I only go in for parts once in a while so they don't know me all that well. He saw my muffler and asked if I did it myself. I told him that I did and then he wanted me to come into the back with him, he wanted to show me something. (I planned to run if he went for his zipper). He just got done modding his 460. He just opened up the hole but wanted a pipe like mine. He asked what I used and how I liked the culvert. I think I made a new friend.
 
Went to my dealer awhile back to get goods for muff. mod. Told him what I was doing and he seemed pretty open. I'll have to show him My 361 sometime.
 
Not to mention I'm looking for any chainsaws I can get that need some work on. I asked him if they ever get any in that people have screwed up or don't want to mess with. He said they do from time to time. He took my number and said he will call next one they get and see if I'm interested. He said he would just take their shop fee from checking it out. It may be the start of no return.
 
I have not modded a chainsaw "yet", but have done minor work to my dirt bike. When dealing with expansion champers, it is the pick of the draw. Depending on how you want the engine to perform determines what pipe you put on the bike. Lets say you have a trail bike that never hits above 6,000 rpm. Then you get a pipe that is tuned for that rpm range. Now lets say you ride dunes on the west coast, then you get a pipe that is tuned around lets say 9,000 rpms depending on the bike. A chain saw is no different, as you are dealing with the amount of back pressure on the exhaust port. Even though the muffler is not near as efficient as a tuned pipe, the muffler's back pressure effects do change the power output on the engine. The only reason I know this is dealing with my kx500. I have changed the pipe, KIPS valve position, jets, air filter, and added a flywheel weight. The bike flat out hauls. grin
 
I have not modded a chainsaw "yet", but have done minor work to my dirt bike. When dealing with expansion champers, it is the pick of the draw. Depending on how you want the engine to perform determines what pipe you put on the bike. Lets say you have a trail bike that never hits above 6,000 rpm. Then you get a pipe that is tuned for that rpm range. Now lets say you ride dunes on the west coast, then you get a pipe that is tuned around lets say 9,000 rpms depending on the bike. A chain saw is no different, as you are dealing with the amount of back pressure on the exhaust port. Even though the muffler is not near as efficient as a tuned pipe, the muffler's back pressure effects do change the power output on the engine. The only reason I know this is dealing with my kx500. I have changed the pipe, KIPS valve position, jets, air filter, and added a flywheel weight. The bike flat out hauls. grin

Yeah but its kind of difficult to tell just how much difference, isn't it as they are not exactly short of "Flat out haul" in the first place.

I take it that you go on kxriders.com?

That was the site I was meaning and the information about tuning on that site has got quite a lot more reliable recently, the KX500 Engine Modifications section has made it a much better resource.
 
It was not difficult with my bike. When I bought my kx500 it was bone stock. When you rolled the throttle back the bike would just go "bah, bah" then just kinda turn loose. Now the power is instant and smooth through out the throttle position. It has enough power now where I can peg the throttle in 3rd gear and the front wheel still rises off the ground with me sitting on the tank and I weigh 245.
 
Another dealer that hasn't learned we are in the service industry. While he is in his right to tell you your warranty is violated by making mod's, his approach was a bit off. I'm guessing you are either in Philly or Pitt. Both areas seem to have the same attitude, do what I tell you or get out.

If you're near Philly, bring the saw by and I'll show you how to adjust your carb. If not, let me know what area and I'll direct you to a decent service facility.

Either way, find a new dealer.

Living in Pittsburgh, I find that a VERY interesting comment. I asked the dealer from whom I bought my MS290 for that service. I've adjusted the carbs on my Poulan/Craftsman saws for a long time, but nobody ever showed me anything, I just treated them like my BMW Bings -- too rich, too lean, just right. I'm always looking for the chance to learn from somebody who knows their stuff, though, and I figured since I'd just dropped 4 bills on stuff he wouldn't mind taking a minute, especially since this was my first new saw in 10 years and I didn't know anything about limiter caps or "intellicarbs." He said not to touch them, that the carb was fine from the factory. "What about over-lean settings from the factory to satisfy EPA requirements?" I asked. "Nope, never had a problem," he said.

All righty, then. He's a "Factory Certified Service Technician," eh.

Jack
 
He told me that it would be a week and a half before he would have enough time to adjust the carb, I told him that I needed the saw for the weekend and you would of thought I had asked him to cut off one of his arms.......

Hey, that's quick compared to the Stihl dealer down the road from me. (he makes my life so easy. LOL)

Guy buys a 270. Thing doesn't idle right and shuts off if you set it down. Simple adjustment right? Kind of thing we do for our customers for free while they wait. Tells the guy he can't look at his saw for a MONTH! Brand new saw that only had maybe two or three tanks of fuel through it. Incredible, isn't it?

With competition like that, who needs to advertise? :clap:
 

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