Dehumping RM2 chain

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Haywire Haywood

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Anyone ever done it? Is it worth it, and is it safe assuming I take care not to heat the link too much? I thought about getting my 4" grinder out and removing those humps from the chain I got with my saw in an attempt to make it cut better. I mean just the tie strap humps, certainly not the depth gages. I exchanged the extra RM2 chain I bought with it for RSC, they didn't have any straight RS.

thanks,
Ian
 
CaseyForrest

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RSC is basically the same as RS, no real noticeable difference other than its smoother in the cut. RSC replaced RS in 3/8 chain.

Take the grinder to those hump straps and dont look back. You wont be the first one to do it.
 
Freakingstang

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computeruser said:
Tried it once. Gave up after a couple links. Not worth my time, probably not worth yours either. Seeing as you can get a 20" loop of good chain - Oregon, GB, WoodsmanPro - for $12, spending any time "fixing" the RM2 seems silly.


Another good post.

I tried that with some of the safety chain i got with one of the Makita home depot saws i bought...It wasn't worth the effort for semi chisel chain.
 
wmthrower

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The last two posts are right on. If you have to cut something you know has/had nails, screws, staples, etc use that safety chain. I just used one to cut some roots where I was trying to pour a footer for my chimney.
 
SteveH

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Yeah, don't trash it, keep it for cutting up some old lumber, etc... My 84 yr. old neighbor [my closest one, half mile up the road] decided to cut a new doorway in one wall of his cabin. Used his chainsaw, didn't work out too well, unless you like really rough, non-square openings. He hit a bunch of nails, he laughed about it showing me. Trashed the brand new chain, of course. Never know when you might be tempted, though, and you don't want a good chain for it. If you do what my neighbor did, wear a mask...the chain shredded fiberglass insulation and drywall and dust and garbage was all over his place and likely all thru his lungs.
 
lastradicaldude

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Works great. Easy fix.

I have dropped these troublesome saftey links many times. Began by using a 3 inch cutoff wheel while the chain was mounted on the bar. This is what I routinely use to drop the depth guages. Use caution and a good pair of reading glasses so you don't over do it when dropping the guages.
But regarding the safteys, I discovered that it was easier to take the chain off the bar and fold the chain so as to do one link at the time on a bench grinder. Works like a charm. Fast. It is only necessary to lower them slightly lower than your depth guages would ever need to be lowered. About 5 minutes or less for a 14 inch chain. No problem.

hope this helps! :blob2: :rockn:
 
Butch(OH)

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Lakeside53 said:
Use if when you HAVE to lend your saw to a relative..

I have a newly acquired 30 lb David Bradley for loaning to relatives, two non-runners for loaning to in-laws,,,

and an ax for everyone else.
 
Brushwacker

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I have little problems with stihl rm2. I usually file the drags soon after I put it into use a couple strokes each.With carlton saftey chain it is almost impossible to bore with your saw. With RM2 it does well enough boring for my average woodchores. I doubt it would work well enough for serious loggers who do much boring. Give it to me if you do'nt want it. I'll wear it out:chainsaw: The only time the hump effects the depth of your cutters is where it is going around the bar nose it portrudes out where the chain is curved so the cutter can't bite very deep around the bar nose lessening but not eliminating the chance of serious kickback.
 
KenneSaw

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Old thread here......

I found this thread becuase I have toy'd with the idea of grinding down the RM2 hump straps, now that I have acquired "bootleg" 26RMC chains from a member in another state. (26RMC chain is not carried in every region, GA/AL/TN being one of those regions. Stihl really should make it easier to acquire supplies that your regional distributor does not carry. Local dealers are captive to the decision of that regional distributor, hence it is "not possible" to buy RMC chain in Georgia, only RMC3. This is essentially the word from Stihl corporate.)

I may leave it alone. I have always found my old RM2 chain cuts pretty well. It has been durable for sure.
 
Brushwacker

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Old thread here......

I found this thread becuase I have toy'd with the idea of grinding down the RM2 hump straps, now that I have acquired "bootleg" 26RMC chains from a member in another state. (26RMC chain is not carried in every region, GA/AL/TN being one of those regions. Stihl really should make it easier to acquire supplies that your regional distributor does not carry. Local dealers are captive to the decision of that regional distributor, hence it is "not possible" to buy RMC chain in Georgia, only RMC3. This is essentially the word from Stihl corporate.)

I may leave it alone. I have always found my old RM2 chain cuts pretty well. It has been durable for sure.

If your bar nose isn't in the wood its not much differant, but when the nose is buried in the wood it reduces the bite to little to none in the tip area.
 

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