Didier splitters

[pondnstream]

Thanks for the timely conversation with Ernie, My Didier is at the shop and they are struggling finding the seals out by the Gland Nut. I am going to provide them with your list with the hopes that it will help. I have a 26f with the H cylinder, so hopefully, your research will help get this thing back together soon.

With so may cylinder configurations and seal sizes , types etc in the market , it’s best to carefully look at the original cross section (they are small) , measure carefully and match up. Most seals are still available.

one source of many
https://herculesus.com/

 

[ErnieG]

With so may cylinder configurations and seal sizes , types etc in the market , it’s best to carefully look at the original cross section (they are small) , measure carefully and match up. Most seals are still available.

one source of many
https://herculesus.com/

So after a valiant effort I wasn't able to break the nut loose . I'm going to have to take the cylinder to work tomorrow..luckily I work with some very good heavy equipment mechanics that'll have all the rite tools to help me out .
I couldn't find any locking or set screw anywhere on the cylinder and I looked all around the cylinder and nut but didn't see any . Could you possibly elaborate a little more where I should be looking ?
The only thing I see is a slice just behind the nut in the cylinder maybe about 2 inches long and a 1/16 wide.
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

So after a valiant effort I wasn't able to break the nut loose . I'm going to have to take the cylinder to work tomorrow..luckily I work with some very good heavy equipment mechanics that'll have all the rite tools to help me out .
I couldn't find any locking or set screw anywhere on the cylinder and I looked all around the cylinder and nut but didn't see any . Could you possibly elaborate a little more where I should be looking ?
The only thing I see is a slice just behind the nut in the cylinder maybe about 2 inches long and a 1/16 wide.
Ernie

Picture please.
Those gland nuts are often put on very tight. It’s probably best to leave the cylinder bolted down tightly in the splitter frame then put your pipe wrench on the gland nut, follow that with a 4’ piece of pipe on the pipe wrench handle. You can’t do this with channel locks.

 

[ErnieG]

Picture please.
Those gland nuts are often put on very tight. It’s probably best to leave the cylinder bolted down tightly in the splitter frame then put your pipe wrench on the gland nut, follow that with a 4’ piece of pipe on the pipe wrench handle. You can’t do this with channel locks.

I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump .
I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ?
Thanks ..Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump .
I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ?
Thanks ..Ernie

Yes sounds right , there are China made 11gpm pumps for about $100 online.
I see that indentation, I’m not sure what it is but I hope it’s not some form of thread locker that the manufacturer did to make sure the gland nut doesn’t come out. If that indentation is for the purpose of keeping the gland nut from turning and you simply can’t budge the gland nut even with an extension, then you could carefully grind out the indentation (start with a angle grinder , finish with a Dremel) and weld the resulting slot hole closed later. If you’re careful and grind away just the indentation then you’ll probably not damage the gland nut. Observe that the indentation is away from the end of the tube which is where a couple of rubber O-rings are. The idea was probably just to make an impression or tight spot on the lower part of that big gland nut.

Many people would say to forget this and just buy a new cylinder but I say at this point you’ve nothing to lose , everything must come apart and the metal fragments cleaned out.

 

[triptester]

I had a pile wrench on it but I don't have a pipe to put on the end . Here are some pics of the cylinder and the pump .
I couldn't find much info on the pump besides what I have read here that it's a 11gpm pump . Does this sound rite ?
Thanks ..Ernie

The pump appears to be a MTE, the slot in the cylinder is likely for a lock wire.

 

[ErnieG]

The pump appears to be a MTE, the slot in the cylinder is likely for a lock wire.

Thanks for the additional info !

Could anyone recommend a good quality pump for my application ...an 11or 13 gpm would be fine ?
Thanks very much... Ernie

 

[triptester]

Concentric/Haldex , MTE are the major US brands. Aluminum body log splitter pumps are almost always imports.

 

[ErnieG]

Concentric/Haldex , MTE are the major US brands. Aluminum body log splitter pumps are almost always imports.

Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult .
Will post some pics when it's complete.
Thanks for the help ...Ernie

 

[ErnieG]

Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult .
Will post some pics when it's complete.
Thanks for the help ...Ernie

Some pics of the cylinder ...

 

[pondnstream]

Well an update with bad news ...was able to get the cylinder apart and it's scored very bad . I ordered a new one from a local supplier at a decent price . It's going to need some fabrication to make it work but it's not going to be to difficult .
Will post some pics when it's complete.
Thanks for the help ...Ernie

We await your cylinder autopsy report with lots of pictures!

Did you find any metal fragments inside?

Was the damage caused by metal fragments or by worn out O rings that allowed the piston to rub against the cylinder wall?

What size cylinder did you get and how much did you pay?

what are the required modifications you have mentioned?

 

[cumminstinkerer]

@ErnieG , that sure looks like something upstream from the cylinder crapped out bad, have you pulled the valve apart yet? also be sure and remove and flush every line and fitting, that is catastrophic failure and sent s*** everywhere in your hydraulics including the tank. That is a real bummer for sure, do yourself a huge favor and clean the entire system, would really suck to spend the money and install time on new cylinder and wipe it out the first cycle because of some debris still in there or another part failing.

 

[ErnieG]

We await your cylinder autopsy report with lots of pictures!

Did you find any metal fragments inside?

Was the damage caused by metal fragments or by worn out O rings that allowed the piston to rub against the cylinder wall?

What size cylinder did you get and how much did you pay?

what are the required modifications you have mentioned?

The only metal fragments I found were in the pressure side port of the pump . I removed all the lines..which I'm going to replace all of them .
I'm building a new hydraulic reservoir that's going to hold 3 gallons which will help with oil temp and I'm also adding a 10 micron filter in the return line to the tank .
I believe the damage was caused by the worn seals..looks like the end cap in the piston was rubbing the inside and scored it very badly . Its beyond repair . I found a new 4"bore by 24" stroke cylinder on eBay that was just in my back yard so I lucked out there and they gave me a price break on it because the shipping wasn't very far . I asked about local pickup but because of covid-19 they were only shipping . I paid $240 for it ...shopping around I found that to be a decent deal . It has the clevis style pin mount on the end of the cylinder so I'm just going to cut that off and it will mount just like the original.
Im going to have to see how the push block lines up with the clevis style on that side ...I had to torch it off the old cylinder ..I couldn't get that to budge for nothing . Once I get the new cylinder on the splitter I can line up the push block and figure something out .
I was able to give it a few coats of paint and repack the wheel bearing .
The new pump should be here by Wednesday ..fingers crossed !
The only piece I have left that may contain pieces of metal is the valve ..I'm not sure how that comes apart . Any advice on how to clean that out would be appreciated !
Keep everyone posted on the progress ..thanks for all the help !
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

The only metal fragments I found were in the pressure side port of the pump . I removed all the lines..which I'm going to replace all of them .
I'm building a new hydraulic reservoir that's going to hold 3 gallons which will help with oil temp and I'm also adding a 10 micron filter in the return line to the tank .
I believe the damage was caused by the worn seals..looks like the end cap in the piston was rubbing the inside and scored it very badly . Its beyond repair . I found a new 4"bore by 24" stroke cylinder on eBay that was just in my back yard so I lucked out there and they gave me a price break on it because the shipping wasn't very far . I asked about local pickup but because of covid-19 they were only shipping . I paid $240 for it ...shopping around I found that to be a decent deal . It has the clevis style pin mount on the end of the cylinder so I'm just going to cut that off and it will mount just like the original.
Im going to have to see how the push block lines up with the clevis style on that side ...I had to torch it off the old cylinder ..I couldn't get that to budge for nothing . Once I get the new cylinder on the splitter I can line up the push block and figure something out .
I was able to give it a few coats of paint and repack the wheel bearing .
The new pump should be here by Wednesday ..fingers crossed !
The only piece I have left that may contain pieces of metal is the valve ..I'm not sure how that comes apart . Any advice on how to clean that out would be appreciated !
Keep everyone posted on the progress ..thanks for all the help !
Ernie

Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.

 

[ErnieG]

Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.

I'm hoping it is or at least usable to attach to the push block .
I may be able to fabricate the clevis end and weld it to the push block .
Ernie

Those clevis ends are sometimes threaded on.

I'm hoping I can remove it from the cylinder easy enough then weld it to the push block ..that works make installation very easy .
Ernie

 

[pondnstream]

I'm hoping it is or at least usable to attach to the push block .
I may be able to fabricate the clevis end and weld it to the push block .
Ernie

I'm hoping I can remove it from the cylinder easy enough then weld it to the push block ..that works make installation very easy .
Ernie

My push-block and cylinder rod are connected with a single 3/8” bolt that goes thru a hole in the end of the rod.

 

[ErnieG]

My push-block and cylinder rod are connected with a single 3/8” bolt that goes thru a hole in the end of the rod.

My push block was a attached to the cylinder with a large nut welded to the block and threaded on the end of the cylinder. I removed the set screw and tired to unthread the block but even with lots of heat couldn't get it free so I ended up having to torch the block off the old cylinder .
Ernie

 

[blades]

For the price of a valve vs time and who knows what else to rebuild- replacing the valve would be a better choice.

 

[pondnstream]

For the record, I too came into possession of a ruined Didier splitter and am in a slow restoration process. In my case it was free and I have been able to restore most components (I hope but won’t know for sure until it’s running):

-cylinder, was able to make a hone and remove scratches, got new seals etc

-pump , dismantled, got new bearings, cut custom gaskets from 0.015” thick brass shim stock , sealed with anaerobic sealant, new seals

-valve, new seal kit

- filter , added one on suction

- frame etc, repainted it
Need to push on and finish this project and see if I actually got all the metal fragments out !

 

[ErnieG]

For the record, I too came into possession of a ruined Didier splitter and am in a slow restoration process. In my case it was free and I have been able to restore most components (I hope but won’t know for sure until it’s running):

-cylinder, was able to make a hone and remove scratches, got new seals etc

-pump , dismantled, got new bearings, cut custom gaskets from 0.015” thick brass shim stock , sealed with anaerobic sealant, new seals

-valve, new seal kit

- filter , added one on suction

- frame etc, repainted it
Need to push on and finish this project and see if I actually got all the metal fragments out !

Well yours looks great so far !
Does yours have the original Cross valve on it ...if so where did you find the seal kit for it ?
Im going to be working on mine today. I'm heading to TSC for some new nuts and bolts and they have the coupler for the motor to the pump .
What oil would you recommend I use ?
Thanks very much again....Ernie