direction of fall

[windthrown]

Naw...

show us a picture of this mighty kubota!

What, go down and snap a photo in the driving rain here, upload it to AS so that the AS group can blast me with more endless BS about the garden tractor? <blink blink>

:notrolls2:

Sorry, methinks not. Also the Girlfriend has the roll cage off and the tooth bar on the bucket to muck out the barn before putting her breeding groups of sheep together for the winter. The cage is too high to fit through the barn doors.

 

[theoldfarmer]

Robin Hood method

Thanks to those who kindly shared their experieces. On our farm our Blue Gum Eucalyputus trees border public roads over which they are often leaning. We have 40 each +/- trees as large as 48 + " Dia.

I attempt to shoot an arrow, with a light cord attached, over a high side branch. Then pull a rope through with a 1/2" Dia x 90' cable attached. Route the loose end so that it will tighten around the main trunk then attach to the main-line with a clevis.

Then hook to a tractor and put enough tension on the cable to encourage directional falling but not enough to split the trunk as the cutting progresses. Prefer to use our crawler tractor on the larger trees since our wheel tractor weighs less than 4000 pounds. Again, we use a 90 foot cable for safety.

Much appreciation for all that post on the Forum.

theoldfarmer
N. California

Not everone will have this advantage of an open farm field for
the pulling tractor.

 

[Monk]

the tree in question

I would recommend getting a climber to do it but if that is an option, and you say the rest of the trees are removed stand directly behind the tree from the powerline look up the trunk which ever direction it leans the most left or ight notch it to go that direction not completely that way but enough it will miss the line start in the tree at the bottom side and come around leavin about an inch of hinge at the bottom and slowly come around the the back of the tree away from the line until it starts to fall dont cut it off the hing on the back is what will swing it. If you use this method fasteniing a rope as high as you can get it and achoring it to another tree direct behind is encouraged. You can also use a wedge to help guide it but dont try to wedge it straight back.




Jeremy Hart
2-ms660, ms084, ms200t
2-JD440B

 

[Eppleton]

sight lines

Another 2-cents,

All newer professional saw models, regardless of brand, have sight lines embossed on both the rewind and sprocket (sp?) covers... they run perpendicular to the bar and allows a faller to make minute directional adjustments, if nesscessary, during the undercut (conventional and humbolt) process.

An analogy - similar to the sights on the gun - the bullet should follow the sights. Of course, there are numerous varibles that can compromise direction (ie. wind, lean, etc.), however the slight lines are another usable item to assist in direction.

Eppleton

 

[gitrdun_climbr]

windthrown, lol

I don't think that people in this forum set out to belittle you but I cringed when I read your post...and knew it was coming. I mean you cut an inch PAST your wedge leaving NO holding wood for a hinge? After cutting multiple wedges in the tree before determining which way the tree leaned? Using a saw you knew wouldn't stay running once warm? Then shoved that dangling spar forward with a Kubota? Claimed the 35' Alder produced two true cords of firewood, lol. Now if you had been writing about how NOT to take down a tree I could understand but to take the tone that it was just another highly skilled day in the office will bring the noise in this forum every time; degrees, girls, experience or whatever you 'said' you got.

Sorry to go off topic woodfarmer. I'm out.