direction of fall

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thoughts

A green tree that falls into an uninsulated powerline can conduct fairly well.
If that were to happen, let go of the rope etc.
Be humble and call the utility companies and don't take a chance.

Two thoughts on the leaner:
Pulling unnecessarily hard with a rope is one of the ways to sponsor a barber chair.
Not being careful and cutting off holding wood means loss of control that even a rope may not be able to counter.

There is a lot of talk on this forum about logging and wedging. Good things, you bet. But the impression I have based on that second photo is that I wouldn't touch it without a rope up high.

All the best
 
logbutcher said:
Most of the MS Stihls have "winter" and "summer" air positions for the carb air flow. Had the same problem with my MS260, until I read the manual :deadhorse: Also, check the kind of summer or winter filter you got. The fleece filter for warm weather cutting may look clean, but cannot pass air :clap: I did not say that Herr Stihl.:greenchainsaw:

I found the season position on the pre-filter and the spark plug flippey-thingey and changed them to winterize the Stihl. But it stihl would not stay running. So I took it into the small engine shop here and the guy said it was a broken fuel line. He is fixing it tonight. Says it is so easy that he will do it for free. Nice guy... now I will have to buy a new chain from him or something. :clap:
 
smokechase II said:
A green tree that falls into an uninsulated powerline can conduct fairly well.
If that were to happen, let go of the rope etc.
Be humble and call the utility companies and don't take a chance.

Two thoughts on the leaner:
Pulling unnecessarily hard with a rope is one of the ways to sponsor a barber chair.
Not being careful and cutting off holding wood means loss of control that even a rope may not be able to counter.

There is a lot of talk on this forum about logging and wedging. Good things, you bet. But the impression I have based on that second photo is that I wouldn't touch it without a rope up high.

All the best

I am with you exacly smokechaser. Thats an ugly one thats hard to call from a picture. It has quite a lean and there is hydro. I would want to see that one but looks like a rope high tied back to another high spot to pivot it away from the hydro. Best advice is given above.
 
leaner

we hired a "professional" a few years ago for a tree about the same size with half the lean over a garage, he shot the rope through a crotch in the tree, down the trunk and tied about three feet above ground level. on the other end was a chainsaw winch anchored to a tree aprox. 100' or more in the bush. the helper took up the slack, he made his notch, helper applied a little pressure, as back cut was being made, helper started pulling and tree came over very nicely, again only half the lean as the one pictured above.
 
windthrown said:
Not too experienced or too bright? I have dropped a few hundred trees in my day, and I have several advanced university degrees, but what the heck. I will leave this thread to you experts. :bowdown:

Adios and good luck out there...

Clearance, how many have you dropped??

As for degrees, they're great, but they don't mean you have practical experience! a BA or MA in art history won't help in you in the bush! (you didn't say what field your degrees were in!) :D
 
Art history?

PWB said:
Clearance, how many have you dropped??

As for degrees, they're great, but they don't mean you have practical experience! a BA or MA in art history won't help in you in the bush! (you didn't say what field your degrees were in!) :D

I was born in a forest in Oregon. I started cutting trees down with my daddy when I was 8 years old. Then later we got into knocking them over with a bulldozer. 100 ft Doug firs on his preperty up around Mt Hood. I had a landscape biz with my brother in California for 5 years. We made a lot of money felling a lot of trees down there. I got a degree in horticulture and landscaping then. After that I went back and got my engineering degrees. Then I designed computers for 15 years and made a small fortune in Silicon Valley. They have trees there too...

Now I have returned to the woods in central Oregon. For the last 2 years here I have been terraforming, road building, tree cutting (maybe 50?) and planting thousands of trees, fencing, clearing brush, landscaping, installing a 90 ft RR bridge, growing garlic, raising sheep and doing a lot of other stuff on this 105 acre parcel. I have also been working on a certificate in silviculture from OSU. No art history though... sorry. But who cares? I got the girl, a lot of bush, and I have the money. :laugh:

Not bad for someone that is inexperienced and not very bright...
 
That tree looks like it leans pretty bad to fell even with the use of rope. I would just hire a climber to get it on the ground. Doesn't't look to hard to get on the ground if you climb it. You could even tie into the white pine if the tree was to rotten to safely climb. But if you still want to do it your self could you get a rope in it and run a pulley to one or two trees behind it. If you can you could run the rope out under the power likes to a tractor or truck to gain the leverage that you would need.
 
woodfarmer said:
which way should this maple tree fall?, trunk of tree bows south, 20" dia approx 40', the branches all lean to the north side of tree, bottom branch to tip approx 30'
I would cut a nice notch, ( not too big ) and use a wedge and drop her where ever it would do the least damage . from the sonds of it ,it will go where ever you want it to !
 
clearance said:
Does your tractor have guarding, like a roll over protective structure with heavy screen and bars to prevent material, like say a huge chunk of alder from crushing you? I have done land clearing, me with the big saw and the guy with the big excavator that has a hydraulic thumb and most important of all (for him), the logging package (enclosed roll over protective structure, heavy guarding for the machine as well). I have seen snags break as they fell and come over backwards in pieces. I have seen all kinds of unexpected things, like the machine getting hammered by branches and tops, right over buddies protected head. Machines are great for treework, they have to be the right machines, take care of yourself.

Excellent Point. Murphy is always lurking when it comes to treework!:chainsaw: :clap:
 
Murphy's law...

FYI, :deadhorse: our Kubota does have a roll cage... and at times I even wear a hardhat and chainsaw chaps. I have seen big trees crack, roll, bounce, flip, twist, split open, gush water, and shatter. At the same time, I do not see the need to have an OSHA representative and ambulence on site just to knock a damn 40 ft alder over with a tractor becasue after it is notched and back cut, it just sits on the hinge going nowhere. Safety is one thing, but tipping a tree over with a bucket in a controlled drop is not the end of the world. The alder dropped and went exactly where I expected and wanted it to go. It did not roll or bounce or flip. Limbs flew a few feet and that was it. No dead bodies, missing limbs, or other tragic events happened. Dead calm day; I do not cut down trees on windy or even breezy days. Wind can easilly put a tree where you do not want it. :blob2:
 
windthrown said:
FYI, :deadhorse: our Kubota does have a roll cage... and at times I even wear a hardhat and chainsaw chaps. I have seen big trees crack, roll, bounce, flip, twist, split open, gush water, and shatter. At the same time, I do not see the need to have an OSHA representative and ambulence on site just to knock a damn 40 ft alder over with a tractor becasue after it is notched and back cut, it just sits on the hinge going nowhere. Safety is one thing, but tipping a tree over with a bucket in a controlled drop is not the end of the world. The alder dropped and went exactly where I expected and wanted it to go. It did not roll or bounce or flip. Limbs flew a few feet and that was it. No dead bodies, missing limbs, or other tragic events happened. Dead calm day; I do not cut down trees on windy or even breezy days. Wind can easilly put a tree where you do not want it. :blob2:
Windy, as you know it all, quit asking for advice, what I said holds, its true, roll cage, yeah right, on a garden tractor, you mean a bar, not the same. Anyone else out there, read what I said about this, people have been killed pushing trees with the wrong machine (or the right machine improperly equipped).
 
Experience doesn't mean jack damnit unless you have the correct habits and proper training in the beginning.

Candles (broken top snags) rarely fall with a standard face cut and no wedge. You have to change your technique, use a deeper face, wedge it over, and for god's sake DON'T CUT OFF THE HOLDING WOOD like you described doing. If you had quality experience, you would have talked about that like a screw up. I fall hundreds of trees a year without heavy equipment or ropes, just an axe and wedges.
 
Garden tractor???

clearance said:
Windy, as you know it all, quit asking for advice, what I said holds, its true, roll cage, yeah right, on a garden tractor, you mean a bar, not the same. Anyone else out there, read what I said about this, people have been killed pushing trees with the wrong machine (or the right machine improperly equipped).

A Kubota M series ~garden~ tractor? :ices_rofl:
I believe it is proper to call it a FAAAAAARM tractor.

Sorry, you are wrong "Mr Integrity." Our tractor has a full custom tube steel roll CAGE setup, like in a stock car setup. Not the stock flip-up roll bar. Welded tube steel, along with.. never mind. You people seem to love filling in blanks with pure BS to amuse each other or make up for small stature or something. I give up. I will take my degrees in what was it? Oh yah, art history, and my baby tree pushing garden tractor and evanesce out of here...
 
Crikey

A whole lot of egos getting slammed around this thread ...

... hey windthrown, buy a MS460 off that bloke, trade in that plastic saw ... you can afford it. :rockn: :chainsaw:
 
Stihl...

I was talking to the local Stihl/Husky dealer here today when looking at mid-range buzz saws. He was a sawyer for over 20 years. Anyway, he loves my tractor method for tipping alders... says it is probably safer, as he has cut a lot of alder and says that alders tend to split and split fast (faster than you can cut... or run). :yoyo:
 
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