dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

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That seems like a lot of work. I have done all of mine on the Earthquake and the GZ4000s the same way. I make an access hole through the back and clean it out with a die grinder, then make a cover and seal it back up with Ultra Copper. Then you can enlarge the outlet from the front. I did not mod the Earthquake muffler with the cat because I had another one to use, but it should have been possible to do that way.
2013-02-03_13-46-14-800.jpg 2013-02-03_13-57-15-800.jpg
 
A drill bit takes care of that Cat material in a real hurry, this is a 3/4 hole in one of the 45cc Mufflers from the backside, through the cat and out the front. You can use the little removable plate on the outside to hold a piece of screen in place over the hole if you like.

The remainder of the cat still glows nice and bright like a mean eyeball in the muffler.
Quake23_zps9a9a5287.jpg
 
Ya'll may have felt a tremor this afternoon if you live in the northwest Arkansas or southwest Missouri area. I went cuttin' and took ONLY Quakes. A 38 cc and two 45 cc's. The 38 is the one in my avatar, it has been mildly ported, I made the air intake area larger and added a larger / better filter and also gave it a muffler mod. I running the b/c it came with but the safety straps have have been lowered on the chain. It cuts very well for a 38 cc saw.

The 45's both have a muffler mod; one has the stock b/c set up and the other is running .325 full chisel. I really thought the 325 was the way to go but have changed my mind. The stock chain (with the safety straps lowered) did a dandy job. All three ran flawlessly. The only issues I experienced were some binding when I was noodling with the 325 chain and an excess of oil delivery. Those 45's will put out the oil like nothing I've ever seen.
 
What size solder are you guys using? 1 or 2mm? I'm about to eBay some from china for a few dollars. I hate going to town rather just order it.

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The solder I'm using is probably 0.032" (it's up at the barn). I fold it over and twist the end to make it thicker.
 
I took the Quakes out again this afternoon. 36° F with a little breeze, just right for cuttin'. I brought along my Shindaiwa 488 for some side by side comparison. The 488 runs .325 full chisel and is stock except for a muffler mod and fully adjustable carburetor. The Quake is running the stock bar and chain with the safety links lowered and also has a muffler mod.

The 488 beats it in the cut by a noticeable margin and noodles much better than the Quake. The 488 is a little heavier but the A/V is outstanding, a real pleasure to cut with. When I rocked the chain on the 488 I grabbed the 45cc Quake instead of changing the chain. The Quake is not as smooth as the 488 but is still fun to cut with. As before, it ran flawlessly and easily tackled everything I needed to cut. The wood I was cutting was everything from 10" Hickory, similar Ash, some Blackjack and some 16" Red Oak.

Although the 488 is stronger, faster and more comfortable than the Quake I still find the Earthquake outstanding for a running, nearly new saw under $50. I wish I had a dozen or so more...:chainsaw:
 
Guys, cant help but feel that the root of all problems (power, starting, ability to tune) these saws is in the mufflers (I know everyone that has fooled with these has said they were restrictive) Seriously these "mufflers" are nuts. Hands down, the most restrictive, heat producing, power robbing muffler that I could imagine on a saw this size. Maybe there is worse, but I cant imagine it.
I'm not bashful about welding on these things, been down that road a few times. I took a flap wheel and ground the crimp off the muffler, and opened it up. I removed the primary baffle, the cat, the outlet tube, and the screen. I also removed the restrictor, or secondary baffle plate... and we are just now getting this muffler to seem "normal" on the inside. I haven't even made the muffler port larger, and I don't intend to. No doubt this saw will sing a different tune, but I do not intend nor believe this saw to be loud after these mods. Will look stock just the same (well for the most part).
I was going to cut the base on this saw, and port it, but that just doesn't fit the bill on this one. That just isn't what I want this saw to be. Now mind you, I have two of these, and intend to stretch the next one out, but wanted to see how good this one should be, stock. Sky can be the limit on the next one I guess, just thought I could come up with something a little more useful on this one. Maybe I can get a vid of this one here in a couple weeks, too darn cold to be out screwing around this week.
 
Does anyone know if some other saw muffler will bolt on?

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Should be a tremor felt throughout the Midwest shortly. Just won a 38cc for $42.50. Tried several times and got sniped at the end. Today I was the sniper.

For that money, it should make a good truck saw. Probably should get another for the four wheeler. Hmm?
 
Should be a tremor felt throughout the Midwest shortly. Just won a 38cc for $42.50. Tried several times and got sniped at the end. Today I was the sniper.

For that money, it should make a good truck saw. Probably should get another for the four wheeler. Hmm?
They were $36 and change shipped to house before we hoarded them all up! They must be seeing an uptick in sales!

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Which Earthquake?
The 45cc. The 38 does not have a cat does it? I don't have the skill to weld a thin muffler with my HF flux core mig!! Was think if I can bolt a husky muffler I modded on it will be less restrictive still than modding this awfully thing.

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More outdoors was "out of stock". So I bid on one. Decided it was worth $45 at least in parts. And as long as this thread is, there still haven't been many quakes killed. (any?)

Without pouring through every page of this, is there any sort of standard muff mod for the 38 cc? Cat or no? Thanks to all who tested the waters. And 08, if your still here, how's that shoulder?
 
More outdoors was "out of stock". So I bid on one. Decided it was worth $45 at least in parts. And as long as this thread is, there still haven't been many quakes killed. (any?)

Without pouring through every page of this, is there any sort of standard muff mod for the 38 cc? Cat or no? Thanks to all who tested the waters. And 08, if your still here, how's that shoulder?

The easiest way on the 38 cc is to drill through the rear portion of the muffler with a 1/2" bit, continuing to drill through the cat inside. Chris PA put some pics up on page 134 toward the bottom of the page. After you have the hole through the back and the cat do NOT continue through the front. Seal up the back with a piece of thin metal shaped to the muffler and open the front of exhaust by drilling through the front where it will be covered by the spark screen. It opens them nicely and is the easiest method I've used so far.

On another note - I used my Quakes for a couple more hours yesterday afternoon. The weather was great and I took some time off work to cut wood. I fueled a 38 cc (ported and modded), a 45 cc (muff mod and stock chain) and a 45 cc (muff mod) with a 325 chain. The 325 setup is causing a few problems with the chain binding. I don't think it's an issue with the saw but probably in the bar and chain combo. I'll have to look at it more closely when I have some shop time. The 38 is set up very aggressive for such a small saw and runs like it's a larger saw. Burying the 16" bar in hardwood doesn't slow it down much unless the chain needs a touch up. I really like that little saw.

The 45's are rocking along nicely and I have noticed a significant increase in power in the one running the stock bar and chain. I can bury the 18" bar on it and keep right on cutting. It is a good, strong saw. I am more and more impressed with it each time I run it. As far as starting and running there have been no issues whatsoever. The 45's start on the third pull cold (second pull if I'm fast enough) and first pull when warm. They run strong and well over the 11,500 rated top RPM.

My only complaint with these saws is the hand guard. They function well and do what they're supposed to, but that cheesy red plastic is awful. I changed them on the 45's and I'm looking for a way to change the one on the 38.
 
Why can't you just drill through the back opening through the cat all the way but not through the front cover, then widen or drill another hole in the front?

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Thanks DD. had to read that a couple times before it clicked. Must be a stuffed up mess of a muffler. I'm looking forward to poking some holes in it to let some power out. Been reading that the 45cc quakes are running 200+ lbs comp. Are the 38's as high? And what is the stock chain size? I'd like to find another loop or two to go on it? Any cheap chain suggestions? I'm surely not putting $20 chains on a $42.50 saw.
 
Thanks DD. had to read that a couple times before it clicked. Must be a stuffed up mess of a muffler. I'm looking forward to poking some holes in it to let some power out. Been reading that the 45cc quakes are running 200+ lbs comp. Are the 38's as high? And what is the stock chain size? I'd like to find another loop or two to go on it? Any cheap chain suggestions? I'm surely not putting $20 chains on a $42.50 saw.

You won't think twice about the price of good chain once you get some cutting time in under your belt with a 45cc Quake, they are really nice firewood saws thanks to the original Redmax designs. I drank the big two Kool Aid forever and didn't know a thing of the Redmax line of saws, I like everything about their original designs the Chinese copied to make these.

I steered clear of this thread for a long time before I payed any attention to it, buying up a supply of these saws is best thing I've done in a long time. I have a lifetime supply of dependable firewood saws now that are completely pre EPA designs thanks to the simple muffler mods it takes to make them 100% with a minimal amount of money invested.

The fact the Chinese did nothing but EPA friendly muffler bolt on's to the original design is what makes these such a deal. I'm glad I read this thread and took it seriously.
 
You won't think twice about the price of good chain once you get some cutting time in under your belt with a 45cc Quake, they are really nice firewood saws thanks to the original Redmax designs. I drank the big two Kool Aid forever and didn't know a thing of the Redmax line of saws, I like everything about their original designs the Chinese copied to make these.

I steered clear of this thread for a long time before I payed any attention to it, buying up a supply of these saws is best thing I've done in a long time. I have a lifetime supply of dependable firewood saws now that are completely pre EPA designs thanks to the simple muffler mods it takes to make them 100% with a minimal amount of money invested.

The fact the Chinese did nothing but EPA friendly muffler bolt on's to the original design is what makes these such a deal. I'm glad I read this thread and took it seriously.
Well, they did change the porting too, especially the transfers, at least on the 38cc. They used exactly the strategy everyone does when not using strato, so it's no surprise. On the other hand, I think going to higher velocity transfers is a good thing and they can make good power by widening the ports, dropping the intake a little, unblocking the lower transfers and removing the base gasket (in addition to a muffler mod of course).

But yeah, they are real saws, not toys, and are certainly worth putting a good loop of lo pro on. There is nothing wrong with the bar and chain they come with though. Oregon chamfer chisel is fast chain if you keep it sharp, and the small drive link ramps of 91PX don't interfere with anything. My CS3816 retains all the goodness of the G3800 it was copied from, and I enjoy using it.
 
BTW, I thought I'd point out the bumper I made for mine:
CS3816Bumper.jpg

I'm not a fan of spikes for bucking or noddling, and the case on these (and my GZ4000s) has a sort-of spike arrangement cast-in that I find annoying. So I used the spike that came with it as a template and cut this bumper out of anodized 6063-T6 aluminium. It works quite well, but projects a little further than necessary so I lose a little bit more bar length. But it does keep the muffler further away from the wood, keeps the saw from getting hung up, and when noodling the added distance helps keep so much from building up under the clutch cover.
 
Thanks DD. had to read that a couple times before it clicked. Must be a stuffed up mess of a muffler. I'm looking forward to poking some holes in it to let some power out. Been reading that the 45cc quakes are running 200+ lbs comp. Are the 38's as high? And what is the stock chain size? I'd like to find another loop or two to go on it? Any cheap chain suggestions? I'm surely not putting $20 chains on a $42.50 saw.
Its worth repeating - A good sharp chain is THE best mod you can make to any saw. - attributable to any number of smarter guys than me on here.
 
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