dissecting an earthquake chainsaw

[roncoinc]

Opening up the muffler.
not much metal to unfold around the crimped edge.
looks like when heated enough it could melt or tear ?
would it be better to grind it loose at the seam then tig weld it closed ?
to many pages to go thru to find best post about it !
suggestions or link ?

 

[MasterMech]

Opening up the muffler.
not much metal to unfold around the crimped edge.
looks like when heated enough it could melt or tear ?
would it be better to grind it loose at the seam then tig weld it closed ?
to many pages to go thru to find best post about it !
suggestions or link ?


View attachment 376114

I ground mine open at the seam and welded it closed after surgery.

 

[Chris-PA]

So who else still uses their Earthquake on a regular basis?

 

[GrassGuerilla]

Still running one. MM and a decent chain and it cuts pretty well.

 

[Chris-PA]

I used mine yesterday, and have been regularly. I don't know why really - it s great saw to use with nice balance, and dead solid reliable, but the Ryobi is basically the same and has more power. I suppose it's because it's my most heavily modified saw and I get a kick out of running it, but also it just plain works well. Impressive for 38cc.

 

[Chris-PA]

 

[Jefflac02]

Used mîne all weekend for limbing and ground work. My ps-5105 gets most of cutting for rounds, but the 3814 is so light and nimble, it's a great, fun saw w just the muffler mod

 

[o8f150]

I never thought this thread would get 158 pages,, I figured it might have 10 pages then die when I started it

 

[echoshawn]

So who else still uses their Earthquake on a regular basis?

It's my truck saw.. Looks beat to hell now, but still screams!

 

[Butch(OH)]

So who else still uses their Earthquake on a regular basis?

I have the 41 and 45 and they get left at the farm which is away from my home. Both have been used heavily this fall as I stop by the farm on the way home from work to cut. The 41 is muffler modded and the 45 has a factory dual port from Fleabay. I treat them like crap intentionally, I start them up cold and wide open into the cut, drop them from waist level instead of bending over to set them down. I run old gas mix in them and let chips and dust go in the fuel and oil tanks. I have never looked at the air cleaners and only time the bars have bars off is to replace the chains and I cleaned nothing other than a quick wipe of the mount area. I want to treat them like the people that (mostly , none of you guys of course) buy such junk. The only thing I have done differently that Joe average yuppie saw owner is I kept the chains sharp. The result is they have put almost 8 cords of hardwood treetops in the woodshed without a hitch outside of the 41 leaks out all the bar oil when left to sit. I have nothing bad to say about them considering I have $100 in both plus the cost of the Pro 91 bars and chains. I must admit that when I am not in the mood to mess with EQs and instead run the 550 Husky or the 446 Shindaiwa I get a quick reminder of why I like high end saws . I do rate them a step ahead of the dime store Poulans if for no other reason they have some antivibe but they are what they are,,,, I wonder when they will come out with a 100CC version? haha/

 

[psjwi]

I’ve got a couple of the 4116’s and one 4518 all with muffler mods.
Those little 40cc saws seem to be real screamers compared to the 45 and I’ll grab one of those every time - if I don’t expect to be cutting anything real big. I use them almost every weekend.
Don’t get me wrong, the 4518 is good saw. But if I need something a little bigger than the 4116 I’ll grab my 345 Husky over the quake every time.
I really need to track down the bar oil leaks though. One or two of them leak like crazy!

 

[Chris-PA]

I’ve got a couple of the 4116’s and one 4518 all with muffler mods.
Those little 40cc saws seem to be real screamers compared to the 45 and I’ll grab one of those every time - if I don’t expect to be cutting anything real big. I use them almost every weekend.
Don’t get me wrong, the 4518 is good saw. But if I need something a little bigger than the 4116 I’ll grab my 345 Husky over the quake every time.
I really need to track down the bar oil leaks though. One or two of them leak like crazy!

View attachment 380492

Probably splits in the oil line - the design is pretty good but the rubber is lousy.

 

[woodeneye]

My earthquake is still going strong, too. But... It did start leaking oil and I can't tell where it's coming from. Took the clutch assembly off and was trying to get the side plastic off. I must have been missing some screws, because I didn't get it disassembled far enough to reach the lines. Any tips on dismantling to the point of getting to those lines? Haha, keeping the thread going!

 

[Chris-PA]

My earthquake is still going strong, too. But... It did start leaking oil and I can't tell where it's coming from. Took the clutch assembly off and was trying to get the side plastic off. I must have been missing some screws, because I didn't get it disassembled far enough to reach the lines. Any tips on dismantling to the point of getting to those lines? Haha, keeping the thread going!

Which one do you have? The 38 & 41cc are different from the 45cc.

 

[woodeneye]

I have the cs4116

 

[Chris-PA]

I have the cs4116

This is not an Earthquake, but the Ryobi is the same chassis and oil pump design:


There are two screws that hold the plastic cover over this opening. However, the plastic oil pump worm gear often gets stuck in there - it will just pull out, or you can unscrew it, but you need to get a hold of it. I usually pry them out with some small screwdriver or other similar tool. Sometimes if you just remove the cover screws you can pull the worm gear out with the cover.

 

[woodeneye]

Yes I got it open that far, plus took out the screws you see in the picture. But I couldn't get the big piece of plastic loose... I must be missing something. I just need to get to those oil lines I guess. Thanks for your help.

 

[Chris-PA]

Yes I got it open that far, plus took out the screws you see in the picture. But I couldn't get the big piece of plastic loose... I must be missing something. I just need to get to those oil lines I guess. Thanks for your help.

Well, there are two pieces of plastic - one is the tank/handle assembly, and the other is the rear case. These shots are of the two case parts, and there are two screws on each side that hold it together (possibly a 5th somewhere too?) two of which are behind the flywheel. Again the Ryobi:



But you should not have to disassemble it that far. You should be able to remove the A/V mount screws so that you can move the tank/handle assembly far enough to access the lines. There is a plastic plug in the middle of each rubber A/V bushing - once you pry that out you can get to the screw. I have replaced the lines this way - I had to remove the oil pump screws too.

I bought a couple of the lower oil lines for the Ryobi as they are much nicer and put one on the Quake.

 

[woodeneye]

Thanks for the insight Chris. As always, very much appreciated.

 

[Brian B.]

My two Earthquakes are still kicking. (Hell i dont cut as much as i have in the past.. For whatever reason this season we seem to be sitting in tall cotton for seasoned firewood)

I'll be cutting here soon regular again, i asked Sannie' for two new chains for my Quakes so it'll be fun to get back to cutting again,.. Nice to not HAVE TO either, but more just as entertainment/ exercise. Thats the only way i seem to cut deliberately and really keep my chains in order. No implied rush means more safety in general, and i can be more selective about what i'll cut vs what is just too dirty. I have a neighbor that gives me free wood, but he likes to roll it all around with the bulldozer so chains last... NOT REAL LONG.. Free wood but boy so much harder to buck up with all the chain abuse.