Do i need a special chain ????

[no longer collecting]

I cut a huge maple tree that was 36 inches at the base. The tree was dying and dangerous for the environment. I cut it in 36 inches lenght because of the weight. When i looked at it i found no rot in any pieces. It would be a shame to cut it for firewood so i think i will make woodboard 1x 10...get them planed and make my home staircase....i have someone who can plane the boards.
I was thinking about making a guide with a 2x8 board and using an iron angle in place of the spike and use my chainsaw to cut the pieces. My question is......do i need a special type of chain to cut with the grain?????. I have a Jonsered CS2150 with a 20 inch bar.
These pieces weights around 700lbs a piece...i used a loader to drop them on my trailer...so they cannot be moved now and there are no sawmill around my place.
Would appreciate any suggestions.........and the chain type???????????

 

[jack-the-ripper]

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi...iption/co=yes/sf=category/se=10047/op=eq.html Here is a link. You will need ripping chain.

 

[Lakeside53]

You're in for a work out... Maple is tough stuff... but worth it.

yes, you'll need a rip chain, but expect to sharpen it a LOT, and maybe you need more then one chain... You might want buy an Alaskan mill, or even just the "mini-mill". You can make your own chain if you hvae access to a grinder, or you local saw shop can help you.

I just spent the day cutting up a maple ("Big Leaf" Maple) - 18-20 inches on the base section... Used a 660 and a MK3 Alaskan mill, it was hard work. I used three rip chains, sharpened one once, the others 4 times (basically at a the end of every second 9 foot cut). I had cleaned the bark first so there was little grit in it -just tough wood.

On Sunday I did about twice as much Red Cedar - just sharpened the chain once (ignoring the screw I hit on the fist pass that toasted that chain.

But look what I got:

Just have to unload and sticker it... but first I need to find space!

 

[Newfie]

some nice grain in those boards.

 

[no longer collecting]

rip chain

Lakeside 53........i do have an Oregon grinder and some spare chains.
Question: I do i make my own rip chain.....?????

 

[Lakeside53]

Lakeside 53........i do have an Oregon grinder and some spare chains.
Question: I do i make my own rip chain.....?????

Make this... It's pretty easy to do - take of the side of every second pair (assuming a full comp chain) of top plates by holding the chain up to your grinding wheel, then sharpen to their spec..

http://www.granberg.com/ripping_chain.htm

 

[rbtree]

A bit of nice figure, Andy!

 

[woodfarmer]

saw

thats going to be a lot of work with a 50cc saw

 

[computeruser]

You should be able to read all about chainsaw milling in posts on the Chainsaw and the Milling and Saw Mills forums. That should pretty much answer your questions.

A couple thoughts:

1. Ripping chain is a good idea. Lots of posts on that topic that you can read.

2. A 50cc saw is not enough saw. Period. 75cc would be an absolute minimum, 90cc+ would be a better choice. This topic has also been covered extensively. Stihl 460/Husqvarna 385/Dolmar 7900 are considered absolute minimums, and Stihl 660-880/Husqvarna 395-3120/Dolmar 9010 are much better choices.

 

[Lakeside53]

thats going to be a lot of work with a 50cc saw

I missed that.... My 660 (066) was marginal in 18 inch maple... it cut but was pretty slow. Next time I'll break out the 880 (088)! I have an 30 inch maple to tackle next and I'm seriously considering taking it to a mill or bringing in a big band saw mill to deal with it. Not sure about your area, but out here you can get guy to turn up with band saw and if you help out, mill it for you in exchange for 1/2 the wood.

If you're only doing a little, have at it, but take care not to bog the saw a lot (real easy to do when milling) or you'll take out the clutch/drum by the end of the day. Unfortunately a staircase takes a lot of wood... Look at the cost of buying the wood, then the cost of a saw and you might be able to justify the purchase...

BTW, Drying the wood is a long term proposition (maybe a year per inch) if you don't have a kiln, and for internal joinery, air drying isn't likely enough.

 

[MS-310]

BTW, Drying the wood is a long term proposition (maybe a year per inch) if you don't have a kiln, and for internal joinery, air drying isn't likely enough.

Very true (air dryed) wood wont ever get dry enough for internal joinery. I live in west MI and have a kiln so bring it over. lol

 

[Lakeside53]

Very true (air dryed) wood wont ever get dry enough for internal joinery. I live in west MI and have a kiln so bring it over. lol

If you have the room, and an understanding wife, you can cheat a little... After a year or more of "outside" drying, clean it up, resaw/straighten the edges, then bring it inside and sticker it all again... for another year. The air in the house when heated is quite dry (particularly in the winter in most colder part of the county). I have a big room downstairs that's slowly but surely getting more and more wood in it...:taped:

BTW, you'll need to get a moisture meter..