Chainsaw tree crotches

[burnbug]

Im preparing to finish bucking a tree. It will be my first use of a chainsaw. (I've done my homework, have PPE, and am not stupid, I think) tree is on the ground. The arbors cut them into sections but did not turn the log and finish the cut. So that is where I jump in. The top piece is a big crotch piece. Anything special about cutting them I should know about? Planning to go down the center of the crotch to make them manageable pieces

I've picked up rounds in the past for axe splitting and they included crotches. I've split some and they are a PITA. I then picked up some black locust and was only able to get through a couple of the crotches. I should have told them to take those pieces away

 

[Seachaser]

Do you have a plan if your saw binds? Don’t cut in the dirt, roll the log if possible, use wedges, and have a big enough saw. Hard to tell without pictures.

 

[irhunter]

The top piece is a big crotch piece. Anything special about cutting them I should know about? Planning to go down the center of the crotch to make them manageable pieces

I've picked up rounds in the past for axe splitting

1. Consider buying a splittng maul. Get an 8# if you're somewhat large or atheletic. A 6# if you are otherwise.

2. Limbing-for-beginners, crotch or otherwise, can be surpirsngly complicated. Pinched bars, saw kick-back, tree roll-over, spring-pole issues. The very best approach is to survey your contact list for a friend who has more time-on-saws than you do...and, provide some inducement to get them to come over and show you, in person, the ropes.

Roy

 

[BeatCJ]

I'm preparing to finish bucking a tree. It will be my first use of a chainsaw. (I've done my homework, have PPE, and am not stupid, I think) tree is on the ground. The arbors cut them into sections but did not turn the log and finish the cut. So that is where I jump in. The top piece is a big crotch piece. Anything special about cutting them I should know about? Planning to go down the center of the crotch to make them manageable pieces

I cut all of the rounds off above and below the crotch, then "noodle" the crotch. Generally in the crotch, then each leg. In noodling you lay your bar parallel to the round with the chain flat on the bark. Don't cut down one of your crosscuts (ripping), it doesn't cut as well. You should end up with long stringy chips.

I've picked up rounds in the past for axe splitting and they included crotches. I've split some and they are a PITA. I then picked up some black locust and was only able to get through a couple of the crotches. I should have told them to take those pieces away

Don't do that, that wood burns the best! It's more dense, so ounce per ounce it has more fuel value. You just need to learn to handle it. @irhunter gave good advice above. I have both a 6 pound and 8 pound maul, and two steel wedges and the Fiskars X-27 splitting axe. Each has it's place.

 

[burnbug]

Yea, I dont plan to cut into the ground. I purchased a logrite cant hook. I can rock the tree and could have probably rolled it over but my back started acting up. I will be rolling it so I can have the uncut side accessable, so I don't envision a bind but I do have wedges, just in case.

I'll be using a 20" 562xp. I have watched lots of videos about preventing kickback. Ill be doing more but seems like, avoid the mid and upper portion of the tip, and be aware of where the tip is when cutting

I've been using the 6lb Fiskar x27 as well, and got the isocore 8lb for xmas, that I have not used yet. Looking forward to trying that out.

I read a little about noodling. I have to do some more. So is it basically cutting logs perpenticular to the tree, aka, making cuts up and down the tree rather than left and right to make rounds?

 

[Mike Ray]

be careful !

 

[slowp]

You are a beginner. Have extra chains. Learn to file. It's normal to hit the ground. I've certainly done that a lot. It'll happen. Pay attention to your footing. I would assume that there is no bind as it sounds like the wood is already in short lengths. However, when I have bucked in blowdown, I look to see what is behind me. It's a kind of escape route. Just be careful, cut and if you hit the dirt, no biggie. Change the chain or file it.

I'm a believer in being able to file a chain with just a file--none of that guide stuff.

As far as getting a bar pinched? It happens. Having a plastic falling wedge handy to put into the cut helps prevent that. Or shove a tapered limb into the cut to keep it open. Have a bar wrench handy to take the bar off the saw if all else fails. Often, you can do that and then the bar is easier to remove from the cut, if the chain can be worked off. You'll eventually learn to read a log to figure out how to cut it.

Kickback is also prevented by keeping your chain sharp.

Cut away!

 

[TheJollyLogger]

You are a beginner. Have extra chains. Learn to file. It's normal to hit the ground. I've certainly done that a lot. It'll happen. Pay attention to your footing. I would assume that there is no bind as it sounds like the wood is already in short lengths. However, when I have bucked in blowdown, I look to see what is behind me. It's a kind of escape route. Just be careful, cut and if you hit the dirt, no biggie. Change the chain or file it.

I'm a believer in being able to file a chain with just a file--none of that guide stuff.

As far as getting a bar pinched? It happens. Having a plastic falling wedge handy to put into the cut helps prevent that. Or shove a tapered limb into the cut to keep it open. Have a bar wrench handy to take the bar off the saw if all else fails. Often, you can do that and then the bar is easier to remove from the cut, if the chain can be worked off. You'll eventually learn to read a log to figure out how to cut it.

Kickback is also prevented by keeping your chain sharp.

Cut away!

It is not normal to hit the dirt! That is a choice, YAHOO... ( you always have other options) As far as beginner advice, I agree with the rest...

 

[BeatCJ]

"I can rock the tree and could have probably rolled it over but my back started acting up. I will be rolling it so I can have the uncut side accessible, so I don't envision a bind but I do have wedges, just in case."

It's a lot easier to set your wedge(s) before you get a bind. I missed tree size. Up to about 20 ", I place the wedge and smack it with my palm, unless I know it's on the compression side, then I'll give it a couple of taps with a boy's axe. Many times you can find a spot to get all the way through your log to give you a shorter piece to roll. I don't use (even/have) a cant hook or peavey.

"I'll be doing more but seems like, avoid the mid and upper portion of the tip, and be aware of where the tip is when cutting"
Awareness is most of it. I would still want to work with someone experienced with saws, if there is someone available.

"I read a little about noodling. I have to do some more. So is it basically cutting logs perpendicular to the tree, aka, making cuts up and down the tree rather than left and right to make rounds?"

Yes, using your saw for splitting. It works well reducing the weight of rounds, and in the case of stuff that is difficult to split by hand, can be the only way those of use without a mechanical splitter can do the job. Post #105661 in this thread https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/scrounging-firewood-and-other-stuff.252988/page-5284 shows some chunks that were noodled before being cut into rounds. Of course, doing that would increase your risk of a kickback, because the nose of your bar would be buried in the cut. That can also be managed. I may try that approach myself.

 

[BeatCJ]

I'm a believer in being able to file a chain with just a file--none of that guide stuff.

I'm not sure I agree with that. Not for angles, but I think most people can't hold a bare file in the correct place on the top plate of the cutter. If you can, more power to you. But I have seen several people take files out of the guide and proceed to completely waste their time. Evidently using a guide isn't "manly" enough for them? Then they complain about the saw not cutting, the chain is ruined, the saw is a POS, everything but the real problem. I know with only 45 years of experience, I do a much better job of filing with a guide for a crutch. It's enough easier that I make a pass with the file every tank of fuel and that's easier on the saw.

 

[slowp]

I'm not sure I agree with that. Not for angles, but I think most people can't hold a bare file in the correct place on the top plate of the cutter. If you can, more power to you. But I have seen several people take files out of the guide and proceed to completely waste their time. Evidently using a guide isn't "manly" enough for them? Then they complain about the saw not cutting, the chain is ruined, the saw is a POS, everything but the real problem. I know with only 45 years of experience, I do a much better job of filing with a guide for a crutch. It's enough easier that I make a pass with the file every tank of fuel and that's easier on the saw.

It takes practice. I learned to file free hand by doing it several times every day. No, it wasn't perfect. Now, I found out, my filing wins the 032 race.

Some logger advice was to hit the rakers a few times with a flat file about every third sharpening. Loggers know how to simplify things and communicate.

There was a chaser who was a very fast filer. He'd set the saw handle down on the ground, have the bar sticking straight up and hit every tooth without flipping the saw. No file guide, all free hand. Quoting one chaser while sending a saw down to the crew on the rigging, "I send it down sharp, they send it back dull."

 

[slowp]

It is not normal to hit the dirt! That is a choice, YAHOO... ( you always have other options) As far as beginner advice, I agree with the rest...

I've had it happen while bucking blowdown. One misjudges. Then one files the chain, out in the woods, by hand or puts a different chain on. Not a big deal in my mind. Filing the chain can be a nice break.

Production cutters carry extra chains around with them. But they generally use square file.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

I'm not saying it never happens, but it's still almost always avoidable, given better tip control or a better cutting plan. I don't like the idea of telling a new saw user it's normal.

 

[BeatCJ]

It takes practice. I learned to file free hand by doing it several times every day. No, it wasn't perfect. Now, I found out, my filing wins the 032 race.

Some logger advice was to hit the rakers a few times with a flat file about every third sharpening. Loggers know how to simplify things and communicate.

There was a chaser who was a very fast filer. He'd set the saw handle down on the ground, have the bar sticking straight up and hit every tooth without flipping the saw. No file guide, all free hand. Quoting one chaser while sending a saw down to the crew on the rigging, "I send it down sharp, they send it back dull."

Absolutely. I would bet you sharpened a saw more times in a year than many people will in their lifetime.

 

[Howsitgoineh]

I'm not saying it never happens, but it's still almost always avoidable, given better tip control or a better cutting plan. I don't like the idea of telling a new saw user it's normal.

Owner of our company still hits the dirt pretty often and he's been cutting for over 40 years

He prefers to let the crew do the saw work

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Owner of our company still hits the dirt pretty often and he's been cutting for over 40 years

He prefers to let the crew do the saw work

To me it's just laziness...

 

[pdqdl]

I read a little about noodling. I have to do some more. So is it basically cutting logs perpenticular to the tree, aka, making cuts up and down the tree rather than left and right to make rounds?

Nope. Noodling is cutting parallel to the length of the log and the grain.
There are 3 basic directions of cut, relative to the direction of grain.

• Crosscutting. This is the average cut with a saw on a log or a limb, and done perpendicular to the grain and perpendicular to the growth direction of the wood. This is relatively easy cutting with a chainsaw and produces square chips of average size.
• Ripping. This is mostly what sawmills do, and this is the most stressfull and difficult direction to cut. Chips formed from ripping are very small and resemble sawdust more than chips. It is perpendicular to the direction of the wood grain and parallel to the direction of growth.
• Noodling. This when the saw is laid in parallel to the growth direction and the direction of the grain. It is easy on the saw and generally produces very long strings of wood fibers that resemble noodles. If there is a better name for this direction of cut, I'm not aware of it.

Notice the huge stringy "chips" produced:

 

[Howsitgoineh]

Nope. Noodling is cutting parallel to the length of the log and the grain.
There are 3 basic directions of cut, relative to the direction of grain.

• Crosscutting. This is the average cut with a saw on a log or a limb, and done perpendicular to the grain and perpendicular to the growth direction of the wood. This is relatively easy cutting with a chainsaw and produces square chips of average size.
• Ripping. This is mostly what sawmills do, and this is the most stressfull and difficult direction to cut. Chips formed from ripping are very small and resemble sawdust more than chips. It is perpendicular to the direction of the wood grain and parallel to the direction of growth.
• Noodling. This when the saw is laid in parallel to the growth direction and the direction of the grain. It is easy on the saw and generally produces very long strings of wood fibers that resemble noodles. If there is a better name for this direction of cut, I'm not aware of it.

Notice the huge stringy "chips" produced:

I save a box of these noodles after drying them out in the sun, they make awesome firestarter

 

[pdqdl]

I won a fire starting contest at a Boy Scout Jamboree using some similar wood fibers called "Excelsior".

The challenge was to burn through a baling twine at 18" above the ground with a fire started by using flint and steel. My time was so vastly faster than all the other competitors, the judges demanded that I do it again to prove that I didn't cheat somehow.

No problemo... They mumbled and left, I got the award. Like you said, chainsaw noodles are great fire starter materials.

 

[Glenn50]

"I won a fire starting contest at a Boy Scout Jamboree using some similar wood fibers called