Does Firewood Have Different BTU Content Depending On When It's Cut?

[Wood Doctor]

One thing I find fascinating is that a standing dead tree that is even barkless will still usually have wood that needs to be seasoned prior to burning, unless its been dead for years. Somehow the roots keep feeding it moisture for quite some time after the bark has fallen off and no leaves exist. And, the top can be dead dry while the trunk is still moist.

A standing dead tree may not be instant firewood by any means.

 

[haveawoody]

Something interesting if you are looking for the fastest firewood is to cut them just before they start leaves or in late winter is just as good.
It's just that splits season much quicker spring/summer/fall than fall/winter/spring.
Cutting in very early spring or winter produces nice dry firewood in fall about 6 months ,but cutting in fall produces nice dry firewood in late next summer at a time when it's not used so really takes 1 year.

 

[1project2many]

Cutting in very early spring or winter produces nice dry firewood in fall about 6 months ,but cutting in fall produces nice dry firewood in late next summer at a time when it's not used so really takes 1 year.

Cutting in spring when sugar content is building can lead to faster decay if wood doesn't get CSS right away.

 

[haveawoody]

1project2many,

I've never noticed much of a difference as long as you catch them before the leaves start to show.
I'm sure some species with sap already running are going to be a negative for rotting faster but I think as long as you cut and split semi fast it won't matter.
Nice to cut before the leaves are out because cleanup in little to none and nice to do that when it's not -30 with blowing snow LOL.

 

[Philbert]

Nice to cut before the leaves are out because cleanup in little to none and nice to do that when it's not -30 with blowing snow LOL.

That was my assumption: that a lot of cutting gets done seasonally due to leaves, bugs, wet ground, etc.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

That was my assumption: that a lot of cutting gets done seasonally due to leaves, bugs, wet ground, etc.

Philbert

This year was the wettest summer in over 40 years in Nebraska. I cut only when I could and it's amazing that I was able to bring in 40 cords, only half of which is split today. Now things are drying rapidly and by some miracle the wood is splitting OK, drying very fast after splitting--especially the elm.

Bark is even falling off some oak in addition to all of the elm that I cut in April and May. Maybe the bark worms had something to do with it. They still seem rather healthy. I'll be burning the elm next month and most of the the oak next spring. Tomorrow I will bring in another cord of big oak, ready to split.

BTW. The answer to your post question is "I doubt it."

 

[sanaa304]

[emoji24]

 

[sanaa304]

[emoji320]

 

[haveawoody]

Philbert,

Well I know for sure it's no fun being a lumberjack up north mid summer.
Mosquito heaven.

I guess the cutting all comes down to when a tree appears that needs removing.
I think that is the biggest reason to cut and whenever it is, is when it gets done.
Lots of guys that generally don't have much room or time to cut will cut at the end of winter for little cleanup and firewood nicely dry for late that year right about burning time.
Guys with lots of room or lots of time to cut really are looking for stacks a few years down the line so a few extra months of drying makes no difference.

Me personally I like real early spring, no bugs, no massive heat to work in and everything on the tree gets used with no leaves to deal with.
A nice pair of sheers for the small for a years worth of kindle from just one tree, no fear of overheating so I tend to spend more time making everything just beyond kindle size into firewood.

 

[1project2many]

1project2many,

I've never noticed much of a difference as long as you catch them before the leaves start to show.
I'm sure some species with sap already running are going to be a negative for rotting faster but I think as long as you cut and split semi fast it won't matter.
Nice to cut before the leaves are out because cleanup in little to none and nice to do that when it's not -30 with blowing snow LOL.

I burn smaller stuff than most people throw out and it's the small stuff that really has the problem. Birches, Alder, Pin Cherry, and Maple are especially good for this. Small diameter pieces, cut in spring and left at 4' long for a couple of months can completely rot before I get to them. I'm processing some right now at about 4-5" round that were cut in spring and piled up. They're showing signs of starting to rot when looking at a freshly cut end and you can smell fermented sugar when they're opened up.

 

[Philbert]

I burn most stuff over 1" in diameter (fireplace insert, recreational fires, not heating the whole house). I cut them to length pretty quickly and they dry out pretty fast. If I keep them in longer lengths off the ground, they don't seem to rot, but they need additional time to dry out.

Philbert

 

[CTYank]

Something interesting if you are looking for the fastest firewood is to cut them just before they start leaves or in late winter is just as good.
It's just that splits season much quicker spring/summer/fall than fall/winter/spring.
Cutting in very early spring or winter produces nice dry firewood in fall about 6 months ,but cutting in fall produces nice dry firewood in late next summer at a time when it's not used so really takes 1 year.

Wow, that's an easy one. Notice which time span includes SUMMER.

It's the warm SW summer breezes that get it done, drying that is. Some think it's elapsed time. Not.

Nothing at all to do with seasoning, but if you must, I prefer basil & oregano, and maybe a touch of garlic powder.