Dolmar 421problem

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I found it on Google.
arboristsite.com/community/threads/what-to-replace-my-dolmar-421.289140/
 
Sounds like the 420 was fine but the 421 were prone to this high idle
I got a 420 that has been good so far but i dont have much trigger time with it.

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Woodbutcher I think you have more going on than just the saw malfunctioning. From the sound of it the people who've messed with your saw have likely done more harm than good at this point. My guess is carb tuning is the main issue here. And let me be clear, the vast majority of those that think they can tune a saw, can't! If the saw doesn't have an air leak, it has a new carb, good fuel lines, not much else is going to cause these symptoms IMHO. The 421 like many newer saws can be tricky to tune, adjusting poop off pressure is also sometimes required, no big deal.

The early 420 had some small issues mostly carb related, which is not uncommon right now. All models of saws can have problems, keep in mind people often post issues and complaints before anything else. The 421 has been on the market a while now and I rarely hear of any problems, this little saw is a tank for what it is, and simple as they come.
 
Woodbutcher I think you have more going on than just the saw malfunctioning. From the sound of it the people who've messed with your saw have likely done more harm than good at this point. My guess is carb tuning is the main issue here. And let me be clear, the vast majority of those that think they can tune a saw, can't! If the saw doesn't have an air leak, it has a new carb, good fuel lines, not much else is going to cause these symptoms IMHO. The 421 like many newer saws can be tricky to tune, adjusting poop off pressure is also sometimes required, no big deal.

The early 420 had some small issues mostly carb related, which is not uncommon right now. All models of saws can have problems, keep in mind people often post issues and complaints before anything else.
I'm not sure there is no air leak. Makita tech in Chicago did not do a leak test he said the seals looked good. Must have x-ray vision. As I said earlier there is no mention of an air leak test after the crank seal replacement. The dealer said he did it but it's not on the invoice. The only fuel line replaced was the in tank line. I asked the Makita tech if he replaced the rubber boot behind the carb he said no it looked good. I think the rubber should have been replaced with the carb and all the external fuel lines ( impulse line) cheep to replace should have been done!! The saw definitely does not idle properly. As far as tuning the last guy that tuned it ,you probably read about it, did not use a tach said he didn't need one been tuning saws for 38 years. Of course then he said the problem was the chain was too loose?????? I had to leave after that , hard to contain myself.
 
Why would you just start replacing parts without knowing what is wrong? Why replace the seals without vac/pressure testing the saw first? Why would you replace the intake boot if it checks out? You seem to be trying to diagnose the saw with limited experience, which makes things ever more confusing. IMHO you likely had a small problem, maybe a bad carb, now after 10 people have messed with it who knows.

Can seals go out that fast or be defective from the factory? Sure, but it's unlikely and you can damage the case "if your a hack" replacing the seals causing a large air leak. Anyway you need someone that knows the basics to have a look at your saw, I think you may have jumped the gun and had an incompetent dealer look at your. It really sounds like it's simply way out of tune. If you were near buy I'd have a look at he saw.

If I can help in any way just let me know.
 
Andyshine77 You could be right about the tuning . Is that what you do? Work on saws? Maybe you would like to take a shot at it! I think it's kinda dumb to have my dealer work on it send it to Chicago so someone else can tinker with it and now send it to Georgia so yet someone else can tinker with it and no one really knows what the other has done . It's the old too many cooks spoil the broth adage . I do construction work and I hate going to a job trying to straighten out someone else's mess
 
The dealer called Makita and they directed him to do everything he did. He called after each procedure and they directed him . He told me he just does what they tell him.I agree they should be testing before replacing. The dealer r said there was an air leak via the"hot" leakdown test. I'm not diagnosing I'm just saying if your gonna replace the carb on a year old saw and the rubber is a known weakness why not do it while it's tore apart . If your gonna throw parts at it why not replace the fuel / impulse lines for a couple bucks while you're replacing in the carb sure cheaper than shipping all over the country.
 
Why would you just start replacing parts without knowing what is wrong? Why replace the seals without vac/pressure testing the saw first? Why would you replace the intake boot if it checks out? You seem to be trying to diagnose the saw with limited experience, which makes things ever more confusing. IMHO you likely had a small problem, maybe a bad carb, now after 10 people have messed with it who knows.

Can seals go out that fast or be defective from the factory? Sure, but it's unlikely and you can damage the case "if your a hack" replacing the seals causing a large air leak. Anyway you need someone that knows the basics to have a look at your saw, I think you may have jumped the gun and had an incompetent dealer look at your. It really sounds like it's simply way out of tune. If you were near buy I'd have a look at he saw.

If I can help in any way just let me know.
Thanks ! I appreciate the offer.
 
The 421 has been on the market a while now and I rarely hear of any problems, this little saw is a tank for what it
is, and simple as they come
That's why I chose this saw!
 
send it to georgia and hope they send you a new saw. or get yours fixed correctly. messing with your carb isn't the answer. your saws symptoms when you first posted was an air leak. not fuel related. just because your dealer put new seals in doesn't mean there in correctly. makita should have pressure/vac checked the saw, the odds of the carb causing your symptoms is very unlikely.
 
I completely agree! I think the problem here is no good diagnostics have been done . If what the dealer told me is true he called Makita and they told him what to replace, I'm reasonably sure the same thing happened in Chicago , the Makita rep called and said change he carb . The guy calling the shots has never laid hands on the saw nor has he spoken to me about the symptoms !!!Frankly ,I don't know that it will be any different in Georgia. I'm about 98℅ sure they are not going to replace it. When I get it back if it's still not right I'm getting rid of it!!! I've already spent WAY too much time dealing with this.
 
This is unreal reallly. I thought this was over when it went to Makita for repairs. Expected your note to help slow the tech down long enough to give your saw a thorough look and repair it properly if not replace it. This shouldn't have happened. Talk about incompetence. Sad to say this has genuinely damaged the brand in my eyes.
 
Like I said a detailed video would of helped. Especially a before and after. No company would want that egg on their face. Hard to dispute showing a problem in ACTION.
 
When I try to post it message says file is too large. Bottom line when it idles it's rough and after use ,when it gets warm/hot it stays at a high idle after the cut sometimes higher than others very erratic. Usually a couple pokes on the throttle and it idles down but still rough. The warmer it gets the more it happens. It's pretty strong in the cut at wot. I checked the plug and it's brown not gray . Originally before the seals were replaced it would not idle down until it cooled off
 
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