Dolmar 5100s baskecase!

[sawinredneck]

We've all, or most of us at least, had that one saw that just kicked our butts! I thought I'd been there, done that, but I tell you, this thing is going to be the death of me!
I snagged this for a buddy of mine, he liked mine and wanted one, so when I found this deal I jumped right on it!
It had a lean problem, little scoring on the cylinder, that sanded out easily, and a stuck ring. Piston cleaned up, but he'd lost the original ring. Someone told him a Husky 50 was the same thing, so that's what I got with the kit. Then I had to go back again because the bolts weren't in the two boxes and three baggies included!:hmm3grin2orange:
Yes, the Husky ring is the right diameter, but it's .010" too thick! So I cleaned off the granite surface table and stoned it down. Now, DO NOT do this if you don't know what you are doing and are afraid of making your fingers bleed! But it fits right now!
Then the included roller bearing isn't for the wrist pin, order a new one and drive 30min each way for an $11 bearing.
GRRRR!
Go to check the squish, no base gasket, HMMMMM, wont turn over at all? Pull the jug off, the solder is down to .003"! Put the gasket on, .020", really odd on this saw, but OK!
Had to make a pop can ring compressor, first time I couldn't get the ring in with my fingers? But I got it, bolted it down. Get to looking, "CRAP!" have to put the intake on first! Pull it loose, get the intake on, but in my frustration, set the ground wire under the intake, so off comes the jug again!
GRRRR!!!!!
Get that all set and dig through the bolts to find the ones for the carb, only have one! So I check the rest, got most everything else but one of the side mount muffler bolts and I can't find one that fits the top anti-vibe mount on the cylinder, and ALL the bolts for the starter cover.
GRRRRR!!
BUT, I've had plenty of time to port and polish things, and I learned how to REALLY open up the muffler on these things!
Oh, well, I'm sure another one will be, or was, worse for someone else:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[SawTroll]

And the end result? :smile2:

 

[sawinredneck]

It's not done, another parts run after Christmas and hopefully? it will live. It's still a work in progress:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[rms61moparman]

I'd just as soon go 13 rounds with Mike Tyson as work on a saw that someone else took apart.
ESPECIALLY one that you haven't done enough to get a familiarization with.:msp_mad:

You WILL prevail...............eventually.


Mike

 

[angelo c]

I'd just as soon go 13 rounds with Mike Tyson as work on a saw that someone else took apart.
ESPECIALLY one that you haven't done enough to get a familiarization with.:msp_mad:

You WILL prevail...............eventually.


Mike

Luke Skywalker !!!!

the IPL is your friend....may the force (and the beg for manuals thread) be with you....

 

[sawinredneck]

I've had mine apart enough I know the basic drill, but with all the frustration with the other problems, I got a case of the stupids on the simple things! I'm not to proud to admit that!:hmm3grin2orange:
I'll get it, just not sure how much hair I'll have left when it's running!:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Bowtie]

You will git er Andy. I just built an 064 that did that times 5 to me and my pocketbook. But it's all worth it when its done.

 

[PA Plumber]

Good luck.

I just got a "boxed" saw myself. Even the carb is lying in bits and pieces in the bottom.

Lean siezed Husky 359. I sure hope enough parts are there to make it worth the $$ I dropped on it.

 

[Granite Stater]

I just acquired a 5100 S that needs some rehab also. Luckily everything seems to be present and accounted for after being torn down by the saw shop tech. Hoping the cylinder will clean up good and only need a piston.

Has anyone figured out what to use to remove the clutch? Searched everywhere and the only tool that looks remotely compatible is a 3-prong tool that Baileys lists for an Echo Model. Appreciate any advise someone can offer on this.

 

[mdavlee]

I made my own clutch removal tool with a piece of flat plate steel 3/16" thick. I drilled a hole for the end of the crank for inboard clutches and then drilled 3 small holes to use a small bolt to hit in the clutch hub with 2 or 3 of them depending on the saw. Works fine and was about 3 minutes of time.

 

[Mange]

Scoring and ring breaking is likely result of a problem, perhaps heat or fuel related.
You should find out why it is damaged and try correcting it before it does it in completely.

Make sure it is tight, no air leaks or other crap...

Set it a tad rich... and try it carefully...

I think the ring will pinch, if is the surface plated HVA ring. This is used in many saws from Partner/HVA/Jonsered/Poulan.

 

[Mange]

Running saws lean is common these day's.
It will develop too much heat and score on exhaust side of piston...

Setting saws with rpm limiter is not easy, tach won't help you hear. It just tells rpm...

 

[Granite Stater]

I made my own clutch removal tool with a piece of flat plate steel 3/16" thick. I drilled a hole for the end of the crank for inboard clutches and then drilled 3 small holes to use a small bolt to hit in the clutch hub with 2 or 3 of them depending on the saw. Works fine and was about 3 minutes of time.

Thanks, I'll give that a go.