Dolmar 6400 or Makita 6100 or Echo 620p

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From the distributor of Makita

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
I meant how much is he asking for the 6400? You probably have some negotiation power on the 6400 since not alot of people want to buy a 3+ year old saw. Plus he would have bought it under the old pricing.
 
Sorry but testing is possible without much of a problem. There have been posted test's on the Dolmar 421(=420sc in other parts of the world) in comparison to other saws, done in the stihl research lab. And as long as all saws tested are subjected to the same test routine, results do give one a pretty close idea of what is really going on. BTW the 421 needed, as a simple conventional 2 stroke, less fuel than a husqvarna 445 with "environmentaly friendly engine technology"...

7

between two saws with less than 5% difference in fuel consumption...

Nothing is going to be 100% consistent on fuel testing. Fuel, temperature, consistency of wood, idle time vs under load, operator, minor changes between each individual saw assembly, casting consistency in P&C, plugs having minor differences, break in time, etc etc etc (I could think of 10 more). Yes you can test them but there will never be a scientific test that will prove one over the other since they are so close (2% as previously stated?). I'm sure testing has been done... but I work in scientific testing field and to take all variables 100% out of the equation between both saws is impossible. One may be better at idle than under load and vice versa... Also real world testing is more realistic but no where near the a controlled scientific testing environment. Both will be close and even if the difference is 5-8% fuel consumption what will be the difference in operational time? 2-3 good long cuts, maybe if your lucky??? Oh wait, we still have standard and strato saws not to mention the differences in the learning curve on autotune vs standard systems... Arguing fuel consumption between an 20-30 year old saw and these new ones you definitely have a case to argue but not here, not as close as these saws are.

Also to say that the Stihl Research lab did the test... yea there is no brand bias coming in that report...??? Also proper research labs will assign a confidence coefficient to their studies, This basically tells you the margin of error for the testing. Lets not mention the variables not tested or assumptions made during the "testing." Does it give a reasonable idea between two saws, yes. Does it give a definitive answer between two saws really close together in fuel consumption... NO! If there is a fuel consumption study done on the 421 vs others saws, or stihl vs husky etc... Post the study I would love to rip it apart.
 
@nstueve
I also have done a lot of research in my life and understand quite a bit of it. And because of this it is one of the easiest things whatsoever to rip apart almost any study where variables cannot be defined perfectly. So your rant is for me childish! For me I am happy that any numbers at all are published in a field where members here are arguing over dozens of pages about something as simple as weight of the saws! And let us not forget whenaa member was trying to show real hp numbers with homemade equipment and for pages members had nothing better to do than critisize...

BTW the Test was done by a magazin, the top link pdf file.
https://www.google.at/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=shindaiwa+dolmar+husqvarna&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjT0qzz0ITKAhXJbRQKHUabBSgQFggcMAA&url=http://www.shindaiwa.de/presse/motorsaegentest.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGR5pf6NjuBE40c1D6K3tzVaxz_zQ&sig2=eQUB9zel5zs6RaeSTvjILA


7
 
For the OP, I think the 620P is the best all around saw, from 20" bar to 27" bar, half or 3/4 wrap it really does great. I have a fair amount of videos of it up here: https://www.youtube.com/user/JanitorMan432


I personally really like the 3/4 wrap even for limbing and firewood. I have a 620 with the half wrap for sale, muffler mod, and base gasket deleted with either 20" or 27" bar for sale if interested (I have a five COUGH a few COUGH of them :) )
 
@nstueve
I also have done a lot of research in my life and understand quite a bit of it. And because of this it is one of the easiest things whatsoever to rip apart almost any study where variables cannot be defined perfectly. So your rant is for me childish! For me I am happy that any numbers at all are published in a field where members here are arguing over dozens of pages about something as simple as weight of the saws! And let us not forget whenaa member was trying to show real hp numbers with homemade equipment and for pages members had nothing better to do than critisize...

BTW the Test was done by a magazin, the top link pdf file.
https://www.google.at/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=shindaiwa+dolmar+husqvarna&source=web&cd=1&ved=0ahUKEwjT0qzz0ITKAhXJbRQKHUabBSgQFggcMAA&url=http://www.shindaiwa.de/presse/motorsaegentest.pdf&usg=AFQjCNGR5pf6NjuBE40c1D6K3tzVaxz_zQ&sig2=eQUB9zel5zs6RaeSTvjILA


7

Well, if you really wanna be nuts about it, you have to collect/measure the exhaust gases under various load conditions, temps, etc. That will give you some idea of how well the fuel is getting burned and give you enough idea for a SWAG(scientific wild assed guess). But then you get real world factors, and that's where things go to hell. If the 6400 is too damned heavy for my spindly arms, I'm probably going to run that thing 15-20 min, take a break, restart, take a break, and so on. This temp cycling means the chainsaw is less efficient, even if it's cutting faster when on, I'm not using it as long, and getting more cuts done.

Now if the 6100 is a better feel, and I can run that sucker for 35 minutes(probably until the tanks are about to run out), and cut as much as I need before I have to clear out the area, stack logs, stack brush, refuel, re-oil, clear the gack out of the chain path, and give the air filer a blast with the air compressor.

If you've got a slightly smaller saw, better fuel efficiency, lighter weight, you'll get better fuel optimization, but it might add extra time to your cuts. The question is, how far to your fuel dump? If you're cutting a 2 mile long ATV/bike/horse/mule/donkey trail out to the middle of nowhere, this is a bit more important of an issue.

Ultimately, experience, instinct, and of course, scientific wild assed guessing plays a bit more of an important part there.

If it's cutting logs in your back yard/field lot or somewhere that's a short run to supplies, not as big of a deal. You'd look more into time spent cutting/ fuel over time spent, and then deciding which is more costly, time, or fuel, to figure it out. Also practical factors like bar length. Subtract 2 inches off your bar length, then double that number for some practical idea of how thick you can cut. But if you're cutting 20-24 inch wide trees all day, you're gonna want something that'll do a 26-28 inch bar.

So, you really have to look at the big picture to figure out your main workhorse saw. For work you might do less than 30% of the time, say big tree felling, or small branch trimming, you can always buy used. If you need a 90cc chainsaw for maybe 2-3 hours of run time per season, getting something beat to hell that only does 115 on a compression test and sets you back $200-$300 is not such a big deal.

And of course, it gets more complicated when you have a bunch of minions cutting up things, beating the hell out of saws, etc. Then you have to look at replacement part availability, ease of repairs, and god forbid, having to take it some 65-75 year old duffer in the boonies for factory auth service, and hoping it gets done before the sun burns out, or being able to find a network of dealers/repair centers able to bang out the repairs a bit faster(even if they look like meth'd out shop class rejects). :p

If you think that's bad, look into all the logistics of maintaining several million miles of paved roads in a state that has no real bedrock, is mostly sandy/swampy, uses insane amounts of salt/pot chloride each year, has countless freeze thaw cycles at various depths, followed by variable runoff. Which is why they kind of "cheated" and just had vans covered in cameras run up and down all the paved roads, and people to catalog the problems spots found on video, then worked form there. :dumb:
 
All great saws. As many have said, the 6400 leaves you options, and options are GOOD! I bought one and immediately converted it to the 79cc OEM package.



I've just read what the OP said, and I literally didn't see any what you've sort of quoted him as saying. He said he's leaning toward the 6400, but wants to know if he's missing something by passing over the other two. Matter of fact, he said, he wants a larger saw for felling and bucking. To answer the OPs question best, one would need to read the question better.


To the OP: if you are getting the 6400 for a killer deal and with full factory warranty, its a good choice. The other two are great saws, but are exactly what you get, unless you start throwing mods at them. The 6400 can be upgraded (identical chassis) to the 7900/7910 at a later date if desired. That is its biggest plus. As it is, the power-to-weight ratio of the 6400 is .333 HP per pound and the 6100 squeaks by it at .34 HP per pound. So, power-to-weight the Dolmars are nearly identical. Great saws and you can't go wrong with either. At this point, I'd be worried about the price you are paying, as you've already got your mind set on good saws and have dealer service for them.

Cheers, :cheers:
Hate to tell you but the OP probably bought something by now, thread was 2 1/2 years old.
 
We're +7 from Eastern time. Our bedroom window faces East without any obstruction, so I don't even really need an alarm....that first morning light does the trick!
 
We're +7 from Eastern time. Our bedroom window faces East without any obstruction, so I don't even really need an alarm....that first morning light does the trick!
You get up at 7, saw running at 7:30?
 

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