Don't want to fry my saw

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scogar

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I recently got access to 9 (qty) of 10 foot logs. Two are SYP and one is poplar. Each is about 12 inches at the small end and up to 18 inches at the bole not including the flare which can get me close to 20 plus inches. So I milled three of them on Saturday and all went well but it was a really long day as this wood was pretty dense especially the pine. I am using my MS460 with a 32 inch bar and a brand new skip tooth chain.

Everything seemed to be going fine and it was but I got to reading some more posts on this site and I got a bit nervous about what I'm doing. For starters I milled the 30 feet with two brand new skip chains - I didn't sharpen as I figured I would likely make them worse in the end. And the reality was they cut pretty well the whole time. So what my concerns are are as follows:

1) I'm assuming the chain is going to tell me when it needs sharpening - I'm pretty good with sharpening edge tools and as a handtool (Galoot) woodworker not a complete idiot about what sharp is vs dull, I just haven't figured out all this hoopla about rakers and the angles on the teeth etc. So I figured get the chain sharpened at the shop and use two or three fresh on the logs. But I am wondering if you all have some sort of expected number of square feet you think you should see in harder woods.

I did have an aux oiler - it was a last minute concept as the one I designed wasn't going to work - DAMHIKT. My buddy stood safely away from the blade and used a garden weed pump sprayer to spray anywhere between fast drops and a slow stream of canola oil right on the blade teeth/bar as it entered the wood. We didn't spare the oil.

2) I am running my gas/oil at 50:1 like Stihl tells me but I'm seeing recommendations of 40:1. Should I be using 40:1? or some other ratio? It's Stihl synth oil.

3) I let the saw run after each cut for at least a minute but I'm seeing that it should be 3-5 minutes? Really? On some of the smaller diameter cuts (as log cylinder had smaller cross section) I immediately started the next cut without letting the saw cool. We ran out of gas once while we were milling on the big pine - I found that I needed a full tank for each cut or pretty near-abouts. The bar oil and gas dropped about equally so I have my oiler maxed. But should I really let the saw go for another 3-5?

4) I'm really confused on the rich/lean issue. I understand that lean means too much oxygen and rich means it's getting more gas (and I understand that when one goes up the other goes down) but how do I adjust this and know that I have it right? Haven't seen too much written about that.

I bought this saw for about a grand a few years back and finally got into milling this year - I don't want to fry this baby because that means I'm paying $30-$40 a board foot. So what about the DETAILS am I missing and should I immediately change? I have 6 more logs to go, some pear after that, (a big pine log in the driveway I posted about earlier but haven't cut yet) and some serious downfall white oak in the Fall - sorry for the rambling just don't want to wake up some morning with a Dear John letter from my saw http://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/msp_scared.gif

Thanks
Scott
 
Sounds like you are doing things well. I personally would richer the fuel premix up to 40:1. (I run 32:1 with all my saws, and have no fouling issues or anything else). If you are going to mill a lot more, I would suggest setting up the saw with stihl 63PMX (picco) chain and bar. That will reduce the workload on your saw considerably. You will also see an increased feed rate, less waste/sawdust, and more yield per log.
 
If your really worried, get out a laser temperature gauge and watch your temps. If you see anything high or your saw is revving lean stop and see why it's revving that way. It should occasionally 4 stroke in the cut. Don't push on the mill, let the chain do the work and you'll do fine I think.

Run 40-1 in the gas and keep up the oil and you'll be ok up to 25 inches Of hardwood I think.

Others will respond I am sure. Mill on a slope too, saves your back and your saw.

Ian
 
Taking a chain to a saw shop doesn't mean it will be suitable, especially for milling. Most won't file down the rakers, and will only file to the conventional cross-cutting angle on the teeth. Make sure you know what he can do before dropping of the chain.
 
It won't hurt to run 40:1 or 32:1. Just tune it to say 13k for milling and run it. I wouldn't want it tuned right to the ragged edge or way too rich either.
 
Wow they don't file the rakers? That seems absurd. Reckon I'll need to spend some time mastering this filing. I did take my 20 inch standard chain and change the angle on earlier lumbering but I didn't mess with the rakers and combining that with some degree of sloppiness in my angles between 10-20 degrees my saw now cuts in circles...well maybe just doesn't track a line all that well...

I had hoped Ace sharpening the saw would at least get me 30 degrees and rakers taken down as they needed to be...not perfect but better than I was doing
 
Wow they don't file the rakers? That seems absurd. Reckon I'll need to spend some time mastering this filing. I did take my 20 inch standard chain and change the angle on earlier lumbering but I didn't mess with the rakers and combining that with some degree of sloppiness in my angles between 10-20 degrees my saw now cuts in circles...well maybe just doesn't track a line all that well...

I had hoped Ace sharpening the saw would at least get me 30 degrees and rakers taken down as they needed to be...not perfect but better than I was doing

They might file the rakers. My point was that you can't assume they will. You have to ask. Inconsistent tooth lengths & angles will cause cutting in circles. I usually get a lot of flack for recommending file guides, but I'll do it anyway. Even if a saw shop sharpens the cutters, you can always go back in with a flat file and do the rakers yourself, if necessary. The key here is to be consistent. With properly filed rakers, your saw will cut straight, even if the cutters are different lengths (but the angle still has to be consistent. It'll take some practice and head scratching to get everything right, but that's something everyone goes through on their way to proficiency. By the way, I use the Husqvarna file guide, available at Lowe's. Compact, easy to use, and very reliable. Just make sure to get one that matches your chain's size & pitch. I use mine every 3 or 4 filings-- or after hitting a rock, just to keep the geometry right. Good luck with the chain saw mill, & keep us posted.
 
thanks Dave - will be right near a Lowe's at about 4pm - I'll stop in. It's about time I tackled this once and for all. Save me a bunch of money too not to mention having a sharper saw. Next run is expected to be the weekend after this one. So I'll see where I get by that time
 
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