Double ender bar

[Trever]

What are the better double ender bars for a 14mm (stihl big mount)? I am looking for good used bars. My GB Double Mill is 44", but I can always longer rails. I appreciate all your input. Have a blessed day.

 

[woodsrunner]

Gb

I have a 60 inch GB double ender. I like the GB bars high quality. you can find them on ebay or from Stens and others.
Scott

 

[Trever]

Thanks Scott. I am leaning towards a GB 44" for my GB Double End Mill. I have looked at the GB and Cannon bars. I am looking for some good used bars.

 

[woodsrunner]

Trever my GB 66" double ender mill loses about 10 inches or so of bar length. So you may want to look for a bar longer than 44 inches if you need to get the full cut width out of your setup. I actually ended up buying a shorter set of rails for my mill so when I use the 42 inch bar I don't have the 2 long rails hanging out.
Scott

 

[dustytools]

In this picture you can see how much bar length you lose to a helper handle and aux. oiler port. View attachment 93477

 

[BobL]

In this picture you can see how much bar length you lose to a helper handle and aux. oiler port. View attachment 93477

DT, I'm surprised at the significant loss of cutting length - I was thinking of building a extra wide mill (>60" )and using a double ended bar arrangement with helper handle but I will probably change my design now.

Did you consider using the regular bar oiling points as a possible place to locate the aux oiler or are they too shallow? Or, what about mounting the oiler on the helper handle and having the oil drip into the drive link as it enters back into the bar as shown by the blue dot here. I'm finding the drip method almost as effective as the direct bar inject method - I just run a little more oil to compensate.

 

[Trever]

Thanks Scott. I am leaning towards a GB 44" for my GB Double End Mill. I have looked at the GB and Cannon bars. I am looking for some good used bars.

I have the 44" rails with my GB mill, and I am currently trying to rig my 36" bar to it. It does have some overhang with it. On my first run with it, I tried to saw without the bar's end secure to the GB frame (opposite powerhead side). Needless to say, that didn't last very long! I drilled a hole towards the end on my 36" bar, but have lost so much space because I had to drill behind the nose sprocket.

Trever my GB 66" double ender mill loses about 10 inches or so of bar length. So you may want to look for a bar longer than 44 inches if you need to get the full cut width out of your setup. I actually ended up buying a shorter set of rails for my mill so when I use the 42 inch bar I don't have the 2 long rails hanging out.
Scott

I will lose about the same once I do it right. I wish I could play around with it, but I have drill with the National Guard this weekend.

Anyone, know where I could get a .375 idler bearing for my double end mill? The mill came with a .404. I would rather use .375 chain. Thanks again and have a blessed day.

 

[Trever]

Stens

I'll probably open a can, but check with Stens on GB double ender mills and their rails!!! Evidentally, they are trying to get rid of their double enders and longer rails. Good prices.

 

[BobL]

I have the 44" rails with my GB mill, and I am currently trying to rig my 36" bar to it. It does have some overhang with it. On my first run with it, I tried to saw without the bar's end secure to the GB frame (opposite powerhead side). Needless to say, that didn't last very long! I drilled a hole towards the end on my 36" bar, but have lost so much space because I had to drill behind the nose sprocket.

Did you know you can drill a 1/4" hole right through the middle of the sproket without affecting the operation of the sprocket? Then you can put a 1/4" bolt though the hole and clamp onto the bolt. I get 39.5" of cut from a 42" bar this way (mind you I also have no inboard bar clamps. Full thread is here.

I did the same on the 60" bar and get 57.5" of cut with that bar.

I was going to change the mill rails from the 54" rails with the 42" bar to the 64" with the 60" bar but now I just leave the 64" rails on all the time.

 

[Trever]

Did you know you can drill a 1/4" hole right through the middle of the sproket without affecting the operation of the sprocket? Then you can put a 1/4" bolt though the hole and clamp onto the bolt.

Thanks Bob!! Great information. I was afraid of doing that when I drilled the hole. I will drill another now. :greenchainsaw:

 

[dustytools]

DT, I'm surprised at the significant loss of cutting length - I was thinking of building a extra wide mill (>60" )and using a double ended bar arrangement with helper handle but I will probably change my design now.

Did you consider using the regular bar oiling points as a possible place to locate the aux oiler or are they too shallow? Or, what about mounting the oiler on the helper handle and having the oil drip into the drive link as it enters back into the bar as shown by the blue dot here. I'm finding the drip method almost as effective as the direct bar inject method - I just run a little more oil to compensate.

Hi Bob, the oiler actually mounts to the mill just above the oiler port on the bar so any type of mod would be easy enough. I have always told myself that if I ever get ahold of a log wide enough to justify moving the oiler port that it will be easy enough to re-drill the factory points to accomodate the oiler port. The bar came set-up this way from the factory and so far it has worked out for me. I would like to try and encourage you to still consider using a helper handle set-up when you get ready to do so, the biggest advantage to me so far is being able to adjust the chain tension at the handle instead of the powerhead.

 

[BobL]

Hi Bob, the oiler actually mounts to the mill just above the oiler port on the bar so any type of mod would be easy enough. I have always told myself that if I ever get ahold of a log wide enough to justify moving the oiler port that it will be easy enough to re-drill the factory points to accomodate the oiler port. The bar came set-up this way from the factory and so far it has worked out for me. I would like to try and encourage you to still consider using a helper handle set-up when you get ready to do so, the biggest advantage to me so far is being able to adjust the chain tension at the handle instead of the powerhead.

I have tossed around a few designs in mind something that adjusts the chain at the outboard end but haven't settled on anything specific partly because I really would like to retain the ability to swap out chains without taking the saw out of the mill.