drying the milled wood

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There was some talk about putting cinder blocks on the top of piles. i once saw a few photos of a guy who used all-thread and compressed his drying lumber with a home-made jig. i started using harbor freight ratchet straps to smoosh all the wood together and hopefully keep it straight. can anyone with more experience with this attest to these methods actually reducing bend and twist? thanks

No way around the fact that wood by it's very nature is going to twist and move around at least a little as it dries, nature of the beast. Some wood twists more than other species. Forcing the boards as flat as you can as they dry helps SOME to keep them from twisting as much as they would if no weight at all. I will hereby "attest" to the fact that this does indeed work to some degree. :cheers:
 
There was some talk about putting cinder blocks on the top of piles. i once saw a few photos of a guy who used all-thread and compressed his drying lumber with a home-made jig. i started using harbor freight ratchet straps to smoosh all the wood together and hopefully keep it straight. can anyone with more experience with this attest to these methods actually reducing bend and twist? thanks

I have done both ways. The one thing you will find with using the rachet straps is that they will become loose fairly quickly at first and you will need to continually check on them and tighten them up.

I tend to use weights and also I always cut my good wood a little thicker so that I can plane and Joint it back square even with a bit of a twist when I go to use it.

The more weight the better and make sure that you line up your stickers one on top of the other.
 
There was some talk about putting cinder blocks on the top of piles. i once saw a few photos of a guy who used all-thread and compressed his drying lumber with a home-made jig. i started using harbor freight ratchet straps to smoosh all the wood together and hopefully keep it straight. can anyone with more experience with this attest to these methods actually reducing bend and twist? thanks

Short answer.... Yes.
 
Ex sawmill worker

Hi Guy's very interesting thread . I spent a few year's or more working in sawmill's , doing all sort's of job's from the logyard to green mill , drymill , green chain , moulder operator , tallyman , dockerman , timber grader , bla bla bla , you get the drift . Anyway when we stacked timber off of the green chain onto stack's for drying , each layer was stickered with kiln dried 2x1's , stack's were about 6' wide and about 7'-8' high and roughly 20'-21' long , once the stack's were finished , they used to put length's of railway iron on top of the stack's to weigh them down , eventually they got smart and used massive concrete block's to weigh the stack's down , about 2 ton each , there was a vast improvement in timber quality with the concrete blocks , then they were stored in an open shed until ready for kiln drying . I personally got a bit slack a couple of year's back , I stacked some pine in my large fully enclosed shed , in winter , so I had lousy air circ and low temp's , then I used wet sticker's , I also left my log's too long before milling them , so I had blue stain already , anyway long story short , I ended up with some crap wood , blue stained (it was still usable) lot's of mold sticker mark's as well as mold from wet sticker's , at least it was straight . I should have stored the timber in a well ventilated shed , with dry sticker's and plenty of weight on the stack . A bloke should have known better eh . Cheer's MM
 
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