Seriously, how does this effect our chainsaws and trimmers?
We had 3 gas stations within 15 miles that still sold real gas, but they all switched to E10 this month. I am worried enough about E10, now E15 will be on the way.
Does anyone use E10 in their Pro saws? My saws have seen nothing but 93 octane 100% gas. Will they get ruined with E10 or E15?
There's a few BIG concerns with ethanol gas. Some folks say it's not a concern.....and others (myself included) avoid ethanol gas entirely if possible.
First off.....Ethanol draws water out of the air. You DO NOT want water in the fuel, as it changes the effective gasoline/air (not gas/oil) mixture. Leans it out. The water displaces oil (and gas) in the mix, and of course doesn't do **** for the lubrication of hot metal parts. The engines killed in this fashion will show classic lean-sieze and/or lean-scoring damage.
It also corrodes brass and steel carburetor and engine parts (jets, needles, springs, screws, bearings, piston rings...). I've seen many burned engines that had lean-scoring on the P/C, and rust on the bearings. Some of these engines were brand new...
It also can ruin rubber parts such as diaphragms and fuel lines. The fue lines will rot from the inside out..........which means the line will look and feel fine on the outside, while rotting away and letting fine rubber particles clog your carb.
Ethanol is also not compatible with all 2-stroke lubricants. If you're gonna use ethanol blended gas, then you MUST make SURE that the oil you use is compatible with the ethanol concentration you're burining (E10, E15, etc). Redline Synthetic is. Can't remember if Stihl Ultra is or not. Check the bottle, or contact the manufacturer if unsure...
Now.............if we were able to buy freshly blended E10 or E15 that hadn't sat in some underground tank (drawing water out of the air) then we'd probably be all right. Run ethanol-compatible oil. Tune the saw for each batch of gas you run. Always run the stuff out of the saw. Don't keep mix for more than 90 days (I don't keep it for more than 30 if I'm forced to run E10).
The problem is........you can only control the storage and 'freshness' specifics of your fuel once you buy it. Before that, God only knows how long ago it was blended, how long it sat in a storage tank, how long it sat in the tank under the gas station, how much water has accumulated in the gas station tank, etc. Too much of a gamble for me....
Back in the '90s when I was working for Sears Service, we examined and water tested many many samples of fuel taken from burned out equipment (including equipment that had been bought the SAME DAY as the failure). Alcohol gas was just starting to be sold in the area as an alternative oxygenate (MTBE was still around, but was being fazed out). People were keeping gasoline in cans for many months (often over a year) as that practice hadn't hurt their equipment in the past (the pre-oxygenate days). The amount of water that was in that fuel was startling.
There were several customers that had bought and mixed their gas on the same day that their machines died. Mostly it came from the same stations. These stations were known to have lots of ethanol in their fuel. We had some test kits, and saw an alarming amount of water in that gas...
Fuel stabilizer additives, such as Sta-Bil address the corrosion issues with ethanol gas. They also keep the volatile compounds in suspension in the gasoline longer. Most of them have deturgents and cleaners which can help reverse some of the gumming up of the fuel system as well. However, these additives do NOTHING to mitigate the other issues with ethanol gas.
Because of my experience working on ethanol-gas damaged equipment, I WILL NOT run E10 or E15 gas in my 2-strokes if at all possible...