easy question for a pro.....or probably for anyone

[Insert_Username]

Hello,
I am sure a baby could probably answer this question but here goes anyway.

I have used a chainsaw only a few times to cut some small easy trees down and I am pretty comfortable cutting small trees with the size of chainsaw I used (16 inch). Once I get to the trunks of the trees I of course cut them in blocks but I have always cut them on an angle for two reasons. 1. to direct the falling, but more so it doesn't come back onto the saw. My question is: Apart from using a rope to secure it how do you cut a trunk (large or small) into blocks or otherwise without it coming back onto the saw bar?: Thanks for any assistance

 

[treeclimber165]

For one thing, cutting at an angle will not necessarily direct the falling, or prevent the wood from coming back on the saw. It just makes the pieces harder to stack!

When blocking standing wood, I like to cut straight through about 85%-90% of the way through then cut from the opposite side approx. 1/2" higher OR lower untill the cuts overlap. Then I put down the saw (or hang it on my climbing belt) and grab the log with both hands and snap it off. This is for chunks of wood small enough to handle, this cut should not be used on pieces more than a couple feet long. The wood can fall back on your head if it is too big to handle. I have a scar on my thumb to prove it!
When cutting a trunk laying on the ground, I cut most of the way through and roll the log to finish the cut with an undercut. This keeps the chain out of the dirt.

 

[rbtree]

Simpler is to carry a wedge, and insert it in the cut, a couple taps with the back of your hand is all you need to allow a cut straight through. A hammer works for large wood. Then push up on the wedge, the piece will move out a ways, making the saw easy to work out the end of the cut, away from your body. Then, if you have a quick flip line adjustment setup, shorten it up close, and give a quick, sharp push. The piece will fly off the stump a long ways, if you need it too. I've removed large trees, inside a deck, by raising the cut piece, fitting in a wood dowel, which allows you to balance the chunk on it, and then push off the chunk, making a very large side toss feasible. Another technique which gets around the two cut hassle, is to, as the kerf starts to close, back the saw up a few times, which opens up the kerf, till the start of the cut closes. The bar now has room to work without pinching- a slick trick. Takes a smooth touch, usually works, not always.