Echo cs-352 vs cs-370

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I ran a 370 for a few years with 0 problems,, cut many cords of wood with it,, the 352 is a good saw for limbing,,, 0 vibes to it,, both are easy starting and will run forever IF taken care of,, I have a 310 in my truck box,, great little saw for small stuff,, like all the echos,, it is easy starting and runs like a champ,,,, keep one thing in mind,,, and I STRONGLY recommend you decat either one of them and trim the limiters,, you will get a big gain by doing that,,,here is a few before and after mods,, couple of them I didn't do a vid of the before the mods but you get the point



 
Not sure if it is serial number dependent but the cs370 I have contains a lot of Phillips head screws. The fasteners that are not Phillips, are just hex.

It's funny because the CS310s I have worked on are almost entirely torx head fasteners.

Stuff like that makes a difference to me and as a result, I would never buy a CS370.
 
Raganr said:
Not sure if it is serial number dependent but the cs370 I have contains a lot of Phillips head screws. The fasteners that are not Phillips, are just hex.

It's funny because the CS310s I have worked on are almost entirely torx head fasteners.

Stuff like that makes a difference to me and as a result, I would never buy a CS370.
Click to expand...
the type of screws have nothing to do with the saw at all,, the 400 I have in the vid is a 2014 model and it is phillips like a lot of the echos,,, hell,, they can have thumb screws and still run
 
I didn't say it had anything to do with how it ran but it does have to do with evaluating the quality. I don't like phillips head screws, especially on saws, and IMO, they need to be un-invented. I also prefer torx head over hex head fasteners, and stainless over carbon. I am sure the 370 will be a fine runner once I get it put back together.
 
Raganr said:
I didn't say it had anything to do with how it ran but it does have to do with evaluating the quality. I don't like phillips head screws, especially on saws, and IMO, they need to be un-invented. I also prefer torx head over hex head fasteners, and stainless over carbon. I am sure the 370 will be a fine runner once I get it put back together.
Click to expand...
look at the vid of the 400 I did,,,,, the 370 is only 3cc's less and will be ALMOST equal to it as far as cutting speed,, you would need a stop watch to tell the difference,, they are equal in almost every aspect,,, the 370 is a great saw,,, I beat the hell out the one I had and run the piss out of it and it started every time,,,, as far as the screws go,, to me that does not make a difference at all,, they are just screws,, but on the other hand I can see where you are coming from
 
Raganr said:
I didn't say it had anything to do with how it ran but it does have to do with evaluating the quality. I don't like phillips head screws, especially on saws, and IMO, they need to be un-invented. I also prefer torx head over hex head fasteners, and stainless over carbon. I am sure the 370 will be a fine runner once I get it put back together.
Click to expand...
Interestingly Phillips screws were specifically designed to prevent too much torque being applied - they were an early attempt at making a torque limiting fastener. I really don't like them other than that they are self centering. On the production line at work we use anti-cam-out phillips bits, which is kind of funny as it is trying to counteract the intent of the design. In more recent years I've changed to hex and square drive fasteners.
 
I guess it makes sense for a one time (in) application. For wood work, I use torx/star or square exclusively. The only phillips head screws I still use are for drywall (sounds like a prefect application for them).
 
Just checked them out in Home Depot as I was walking by and to me the 370 just looks and feels like a better saw
 
Franny K said:
Are they phillips of pozidrive? Pozidrive has little hash marks between the indentations.
Click to expand...
I am going to say they are phillips,, I don't remember any hash marks on them,, I believe they where smooth,, I would go check but there is 2 feet of snow between me and the shop
 
I have both models. The 352 is great for limbing and small jobs. The CS-370 is built on a whole different chassis and I'm guessing it's an older design as well. It cuts and handles like a bigger saw. I prefer it over my Husqvarna Rancher 50 both with 16" bars. Like o8f150 says, get rid of the cat and the limiter tabs and you'll have a really nice little saw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
i have (2) cs370's the newest ones that came in to home depot had a plastic handlebars :(
i run the crap out of both of mine. good little saws. fast for 36 cc
will out run several muff modded 42 cc poulans. beat a bunch of saws to win 40 and under at the last gtg i was at
i tune mine both the same and have two bars and chains that match and we race each other with them at ft scott ... they run dead even :)
 
Well then maybe I need to find a used 370, the one I was looking at on the shelf was an old unit, metal handle and looks like a sturdier choke lever and other things I'm sure. Prob their display 370 until they stopped carrying them in store, was the only one they had no box no chain no oil or gas caps and when I ask if they could sell it at a discount..... They said 20 bucks off..... I said no and walked away :/
 
Looks like the early 370 and 400's did not have gas primers, is that a good or bad thing? I'm thinking its a good thing because I have a husky 350 and now a shindaiwa 488 both without primers and they both fire up on the second or third pull
 

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