I acquired an Echo 330t along with some other saws. Engine locked, cylinder scored bad, straight gas in fuel tank. This saw hasn't seen much use, drive sprocket looks new, bar still has most of the "Echo" on it. The short block costs around $140, used jug and new piston/rings is in the $80 range. Is the saw worth spending $140 to have a like new saw. I just bought a new Echo 271t for my own use so probably the 330 would not be a keeper--already have more saws than an old man "needs"!
Echo CS330t--rebuild or not?
- Thread starter GlynnC
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I'llbearealclimberoneday
ArboristSite Member
Sell it or keep it for parts. The 330is a pretty reliable saw when new, but far from a top performer. The CS355T is, but thats another 200$ over the repair cost. I'd bet with out a stop watch, you couldn't tell a difference in cut times between the 271 and 330 because the narrow kerf chain puts less drag on the engine. .43 doesn't hold up quite as well, but chains are cheap and sharpening is easy.
"Is the saw worth spending $140 to have a like new saw. (sic)"... yes
"The 330is a pretty reliable saw when new, but far from a top performer." This statement is far from true. cs330s are not "pretty reliable," they are rock solid and will outlast most (maybe all) other climbing saws, especially the stihls. as far as performance goes, do a search for top handle comparisons and you will find my comparison of the echo cs330, cs360 and stihl 020t. the 330 came out on top in timed cuts.
here's the link:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...oving-air-intake-time-cuts-comparison.280254/
"The 330is a pretty reliable saw when new, but far from a top performer." This statement is far from true. cs330s are not "pretty reliable," they are rock solid and will outlast most (maybe all) other climbing saws, especially the stihls. as far as performance goes, do a search for top handle comparisons and you will find my comparison of the echo cs330, cs360 and stihl 020t. the 330 came out on top in timed cuts.
here's the link:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...oving-air-intake-time-cuts-comparison.280254/
stubnail67
Addicted to ArboristSite
let me know if your parting it i have one and its always good to have parts...
I'llbearealclimberoneday
ArboristSite Member
By top performer, I meant Echo's CS355T, Stihl 200T/ nodded 201, Husqvarna 540xp and similar. The 360 is one of the slowest cutting top handle saws around its size I've ever used.
I never said it was a bad saw, and the CS3400 I have from 1995 still starts up and runs fine, that's been pretty reliable. But spending 140$ on a saw that cost 250 new and can be had in running condition for 75$ doesn't seem like a wise move to me. Maybe the market is different on the other coast
i used to use the cs 3400t's but that was more than 15 years ago. they were good saws but crude compared to the stihl 020t, and not always the best choice for working in the pnw. the air filters would get wet in the rain and clog up. 200t's and 201t's are fine saws but they do have that problematic carburetor and are typically good for a year of hard use before they fall apart. the 360t you used must have had problems, maybe a dull chain? check out the vid at the end of my post (link above.) all three saws are mine and are used for climbing and other worksite duties. all three had new chains, fresh off the roll. the 330 and 360 use the same bar/chain, mounted before the test. couldn't do that with the stihl because it has a 14" bar and echo bars don't fit. the results surprised me since i expected the stihl to be the fastest.
i can't compare the 330/360 to the new echo 355 or the husky top handle. I'd have one or the other if my echos would just wear out or break, no luck ther, so far. the 360 is nearly ten years old...
happy new year!
Thanks for all the quick replys--I should have included that I like Echo saws, my favorite saw is the Echo 346. I'm not into heavy cutting, but do a fair amount of volunteer storm cleanup as well as trimming trees for friends, family, and self. Bought the 271 to use out of bucket lift that I proudly own! Wish I hadn't bought it now, I would have gladly spent $140 for my personal top handle Echo! My personal makeup is to "fix" rather than junk!
for landscape trimming and orchard pruning a top handle will become your most used powered saw once you use it for a while. they're handy for storm cleanup too. looks to me like you could have a nearly new saw for $140. take good care of it and you might never need another.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
As others have mentioned, you're getting into the price range of buying a runner. I faced the same parts to repair cost versus value issue with a CS-440 (trashed P&C); it's still in a box in my garage.
For now, think that's what I'll do--cleaned it up today, put in in a box! With my luck, as soon as I ordered the short block, one would show up on CL. So for now, no decision is a decision!
Just couldn't leave it in a box--found the new short block for $117 delivered. Ordered it tonight! I've never been this deep into a chainsaw before--my speciality is string trimmers. Looking forward to the project!
Since this will be my 9th saw, I must confess CAD, and since I have more string trimmers than chainsaws, I must also confess TAD also!!
Since this will be my 9th saw, I must confess CAD, and since I have more string trimmers than chainsaws, I must also confess TAD also!!
glynnc-
good to hear you came to your senses, or maybe succumbed to your curiosities. a guy needs something to work on during these dark months. anyway, you don't have to go "deep" to fix this saw. you just have to remove the motor from the plastic case and install the the new one. i can't speak from experience for this particular model, which rarely fails. but i have done quite a few cs3400's, an older model top handle. i think you'll have to remove the carburater and clutch, and a few other things to slip the motor out. just be patient.
when you're done you'll have a great saw with a lot more frijoles than your 27cc saw. photos of your work would be great.
Speaking of clutch removal, do I really need to buy the Echo clutch removal tool or can one use something like a pipe flange and make their own? I'm well aware of the left handed threads.
Good job, you might be getting in the price range of a used saw but you will end up with a brand new engine and the rest sounds like new. A stated above with a muff modd , tuned good and maybe a little intake work these saws cut with the best of them. If left stock and not tuned right they can be real dogs as some have stated. Steve
drf255
BAD CAD
I've had my 330T for 14 years and it's cut more wood here than all of my other saws combined. Probably over 40 cords.
I got it new as my first saw, before I knew anything about them.
It's still running strong.
I got it new as my first saw, before I knew anything about them.
It's still running strong.
you can probably make your own clutch tool but i would purchase one. i don't think they are very expensive. if my memory is correct the tool has three cylindrical dogs that fit into holes in the clutch. the tool looks nice hanging behind your bench.
regarding mods, just a cautionary note, many on this site will differ with. i recently bought a used cs360t that was completely stock. it had been used to clear trails above los alamos, nm after the recent fires. i found that. properly tuned, it ran as well and maybe better than my modded saws. the best "mod" i've found for these saw is to replace the 14" bar with a 12". these saws do seem to run better after break-in.
also, just curious, did you buy a 330cc or a 360cc short block? if you got the 330, don't fret. i haven't been able to measure much difference between the two.
Bought the 330 short block--never thoght about 360 or if it would fit. I have the 14" bar that it came with, but also the 12" that came on the 271--extra chains for both. Will give both a try. I'm not into "speed sawing", but like a good dependable saw with a sharp chain! My muffler mod will be removing the catalyst.
as long as the 271 uses 3/8"x.50 chain, the 12" bar should work. i removed the cats from some of my 360's. it helps to have a die grinder (and a good respirator.) a sharp chain is a must. as far as i can tell there's no difference between te 330 and 360 except 2mm of cylinder bore. good luck, you're going to like the 330.
bikemike
loud pipes save lives
No you don't just use a flat nose punch and make sure you hit it clock wise it is a left handed thread
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