Echo CS360T dies

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Analyst Man

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Homeowner with seldom used Echo CS360T. I modified the muffler as instructed on AS and tuned accordingly. I run Echo red armor oil mixed 40/1 in all my saws and run them dry after each cutting session. I always keep my air cleaners clean. Lately the saw is dying for no apparent reason. I try restarting it and it fires up but dies as soon as I blip the throttle. Then I choke it till it fires, set it to run and it starts and will keep running and cutting fine as long as I keep bliping the throttle between cuts. But if I let it idle between cuts eventually it will stop just as I rev up for a new cut. It runs great at full throttle in wood and idles normal. Any suggestions?
 
Homeowner with seldom used Echo CS360T. I modified the muffler as instructed on AS and tuned accordingly. I run Echo red armor oil mixed 40/1 in all my saws and run them dry after each cutting session. I always keep my air cleaners clean. Lately the saw is dying for no apparent reason. I try restarting it and it fires up but dies as soon as I blip the throttle. Then I choke it till it fires, set it to run and it starts and will keep running and cutting fine as long as I keep bliping the throttle between cuts. But if I let it idle between cuts eventually it will stop just as I rev up for a new cut. It runs great at full throttle in wood and idles normal. Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
 
Store them full to the brim with non-ethanol fuel. Premium. Stabilized.

you have a fuel delivery problem, likely from deposits left from running dry. Or possibly some foreign material got into the system (carburetor, most likely)

occasionaly pulling the fuel screws and spraying in the holes with WD or something can clear a blockage.

a little seafoam in the mix oftentimes clears things up. Let it get in thesystem and sit for a while.

If those things don't work; check the fuel filter, and then clean the carb.
 
Store them full to the brim with non-ethanol fuel. Premium. Stabilized.

you have a fuel delivery problem, likely from deposits left from running dry. Or possibly some foreign material got into the system (carburetor, most likely)

occasionaly pulling the fuel screws and spraying in the holes with WD or something can clear a blockage.

a little seafoam in the mix oftentimes clears things up. Let it get in thesystem and sit for a while.

If those things don't work; check the fuel filter, and then clean

Store them full to the brim with non-ethanol fuel. Premium. Stabilized.

you have a fuel delivery problem, likely from deposits left from running dry. Or possibly some foreign material got into the system (carburetor, most likely)

occasionaly pulling the fuel screws and spraying in the holes with WD or something can clear a blockage.

a little seafoam in the mix oftentimes clears things up. Let it get in thesystem and sit for a while.

If those things don't work; check the fuel filter, and then clean the carb.
How long can you store a saw with non-ethanol fuel and stabilizer? Sometimes I don't use this saw for a few years.
 
And/or use engineered fuel like these. They claim to store longer and better in handheld equipment. I have been using the Trufuel brand for the last 9-10 yrs with no problems. My experience has been great. Equipment starts better, runs better, uses less fuel compared to ethanol free pump gas, runs cooler and almost always starts in 4 or less pulls when I grab the tool for the first time of the season.

Now, if I have a LOT of cutting or trimming or what ever... I may start with pump gas then end with the canned fuel when done for storage. Full disclosure, I run everything on 40:1. And as always, your millage/experience may very!

https://trufuel50.com/
https://www.husqvarna.com/us/fuel-oil-lubricants/xp-premixed-fuel-and-oil/
https://www.stihlusa.com/products/oils--lubricants-and-fuels/premixed-fuel/motomix/
http://www.smittysinc.net/catalog/2.../super-s-superfuel-2-cycle-oil-fuel-50-1-mix/
https://hw.menardc.com/main/items/media/CAM2I001/Prod_Tech_Spec/SuperS_SuperFuel_Oil_Gas_Mixture.pdf
https://vpracingfuels.com/product-category/outdoor/small-engine-fuels/
 
I'd say it's as simple as being too rich on the h screw.
I bought a new dolmar and was overly cautious about making it sure it was rich during break in.
Well it would die after each cut but restart easily.
I adjusted the h a bit leaner and it was fine after that.
Tom.
 
If it runs fine when cutting at full throttle, you do NOT have a fuel delivery issue. If the engine bogs when trying to accelerate from idle, it usually means the transfer ports aren't supplying enough fuel. There are up to 3 fuel ports under the low speed welch plug, two of them are meant to do the transfer from low speed to high speed and they are very small and get easily blocked, the first thing to try is to remove the L screw and spray in carb cleaner. If you have the carb off, you should be able to see the spray coming out each hole, if not the welch plug has to be removed and the holes cleaned. The easiest way to set the L screw is to slowly turn it in and out until you get the fastest steady engine speed while adjusting the throttle stop screw (LA) to keep the chain barely moving, then back the L screw out until the chain stops moving. If it still bogs, the L screw might have to be backed out a bit more.
 
How long will it keep running at idle? You said it idles fine, but also said it dies right after making a cut. Have you tried increasing idle speed a little bit?
It doesn't always die at idle I can be cutting wood for 10-15 minutes maybe and it'll idle down each time but then all of a sudden I go to make a cut pull the trigger to rev it up and it just dies. Then I have to choke it to restart it and it runs fine for a while but then ends up doing the same thing. Seems to cut fine in wood with no issues and generally idles fine. I did richen it up a little to see if that helps but haven't had to cut any more wood. I'll have to wait till the next time I run it to see what happens. Thanks to everyone for all their good suggestions.
 
Sounds like blocked progressive idle drilling’s or you’re just too lean on L.

Start with turning L out 1/8 of a turn. You may need to turn in idle screw to bring idle back up. If that doesn’t work, time to strip the carby!

Could also be that the H nozzel check valve is leaking.
 
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