Excessive chain stretching?

[Elmer Fudd]

I have a couple Husqvarna 359 saws with 20 inch bars. I have used 3 lots of chain over the years - Oregon, Husqvarna, and some unknown chain bagged in plain bags I got a good price on from a dealer in the PNW.

I notice that the Husqvarna chain I use now tends to stretch a lot, to the point where I run out of adjustment on the saw. Is this a common problem, or could I be doing something wrong from a technique/maintenance viewpoint? I have a box of stretched chains with life left on them. I have bought a chain breaker/rivet spinner tool to remove a link or two, but have not tried it yet.

The Oregon chain maintenance manual does not address stretching.

Thanks for any insights.

 

[SawTroll]

That problem often is related to an oiler not working properly, or set too lean. I am sure you need to set it at max on a 359 with a 20" bar.

 

[K5krawler]

Or a dirty bar that has a clogged rail and clogged oilier hole. Got to keep that clean on the saw as that can be over looked by many.

-K5

 

[w8ye]

If you are cutting dry or dusty wood or a lot of wood with rotten centers or with loose dirty bark, you will need more chain oil.

 

[SawTroll]

Or a dirty bar that has a clogged rail and clogged oilier hole. Got to keep that clean on the saw as that can be over looked by many.

-K5

If you are cutting dry or dusty wood or a lot of wood with rotten centers or with loose dirty bark, you will need more chain oil.

Surely that is possible, as this is not "normal" at all.

 

[Fish]

You need a new sprocket.

 

[Fish]

But putting the "stretched" chains on your new sprocket will damage it quickly.

 

[Hillbilly1]

+1 oil, sprocket or both.

 

[alderman]

What goes on here?

When a chain stretches is it physically wallowing out the holes on the links or somehow wearing out the pins? I'm not sure if this question makes sense, but I'm just wondering what is actually wearing on the chain that allows it to stretch. Figured you boys and girls might know.

Thanks

 

[Fish]

No real stretch, just wallowing of rivet holes and wear on the bottom of the chain, and gouges in the sprocket.

 

[SawTroll]

No real stretch, just wallowing of rivet holes and wear on the bottom of the chain, and gouges in the sprocket.

You got it right, as usual! :msp_thumbup:

 

[Elmer Fudd]

Thanks for all the helpful replies.

I frequently check to make sure the oiler is working by verifying oil spray off the bar tip when I start up. I have had to clean out clogged oil passages in the bar several times with a paperclip.

On the one saw I am able to immediately look at, the oiler was set on position 2 out of three. The manual says that for a 20 inch bar it should be set on position three, so that was one problem.

The sprocket was also quite worn, and I replaced it with a new one I keep on hand. I read in Oregon's manual today that the sprocket should be replaced every 2 chains, which is a quicker than I would have thought. Also, I think the last time I checked the sprocket, instead of replacing it I merely flipped it over on this saw, thinking (incorrectly?) that the issue was wear on the side of the sprocket that was pushing against the drive links. I guess that would work well with a two chain sprocket change interval. After the first chain, flip the sprocket over, then replace it after the second chain is used up.

I guess that means I should replace the chain now? New sprockets and used chains do not mix well?

Another thing I have not been doing that is recommended in the Oregon manual is soaking new chains in bar oil overnight prior to using.

One problem with this saw is that you need to use a piston stop and a special tool to remove the clutch drum to get at the sprocket, discouraging frequent checks and replacement. I notice that with a new 570 I have that the sprocket replacement is much easier.

 

[Anthony_Va.]

I'd say the sprocket was your main problem. I have seen saws do that with badly worn sprockets. Keep the oiler on max. There's ways to remove the clutch without using a stop but you may not want to try that.

Does the saw have a spur or rim sprocket? If it's a spur, I would convert it to rim. JMO.

 

[w8ye]

I don't think it is a good idea to turn rim sprockets around?

 

[Elmer Fudd]

I'd say the sprocket was your main problem. I have seen saws do that with badly worn sprockets. Keep the oiler on max. There's ways to remove the clutch without using a stop but you may not want to try that.

Does the saw have a spur or rim sprocket? If it's a spur, I would convert it to rim. JMO.

It's a rim sprocket.

 

[troutfisher]

I've seen the side chain tensioners go bad on 359's. Maybe the chain is fine and the tensioner is stripped or backing off or something.........

 

[Elmer Fudd]

I've seen the side chain tensioners go bad on 359's. Maybe the chain is fine and the tensioner is stripped or backing off or something.........

They appear to work fine on both the ones I have. I keep adjusting them until the screw is at the front of the slot in the opening and can't go any further.

 

[sbhooper]

Do not tighten a real hot chain. Let it cool before you tighten it and you will have far less stretch issue.

 

[PARTSWOODCHUCK]

Is your chain sharp? Are You cutting dirty wood?
We used to run into that a lot doing firewood that had been skidded though mud.

The heat generated is enough to stretch a chain a lot after prolonged cutting in those conditions.

We just take a link out.

 

[Elmer Fudd]

Is your chain sharp? Are You cutting dirty wood?
We used to run into that a lot doing firewood that had been skidded though mud.

The heat generated is enough to stretch a chain a lot after prolonged cutting in those conditions.

We just take a link out.

I sharpen the chain each tank of fuel. After running the tank dry, I sharpen the chain, then tighten it up. I assume that is enough time for the chain to cool.

The wood I cut is usually clean, consisting of assorted pine and hardwoods that have fallen across dirt roads and firelanes.