Extending Ignition coil wire - quick tip and help

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MartDalb

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hi everyone

Got myself a used Jonsered 2165, needs some work, a lot actually.

And to try and save myself some money, I could extend the "broken" wire on the ignition coil.

The wire has broken off about 2-3cm, making it too short to reach the spark plug correctly.

Can I just use a solid "joint sleeve" and some "shrink flex tubing?" (I don't know the exact English word for this, the stuff you heat up so it shrinks around wires).

Would that work, or should I just buy an aftermarket ignition coil? - it is not that expensive.
Picture below.

Thanks for all help - as always! :cheers:
 

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hi everyone

Got myself a used Jonsered 2165, needs some work, a lot actually.

And to try and save myself some money, I could extend the "broken" wire on the ignition coil.

The wire has broken off about 2-3cm, making it too short to reach the spark plug correctly.

Can I just use a solid "joint sleeve" and some "shrink flex tubing?" (I don't know the exact English word for this, the stuff you heat up so it shrinks around wires).

Would that work, or should I just buy an aftermarket ignition coil? - it is not that expensive.
Picture below.

Thanks for all help - as always! :cheers:
Best splice is to expose the centre wires, solder them together, fill the gap with silicone RTV and let it cure, then cover the area with shrink tube.
 
Best splice is to expose the centre wires, solder them together, fill the gap with silicone RTV and let it cure, then cover the area with shrink tube.

Interesting and thanks!
Is that the way you do these things?

My idea involved this kinda "joint". - see picture.
 

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Yeah. I won't budge out of the seat, afraid I'll make matters worse if I go too hard on it.
Doesn't seem to be one of those that unscrews. I may be mistaken of course.
Pull the rubber insulator cap off the coil and look for the presence of glue/epoxy. If glue is found the wire is non-replaceable. If glue isn't found try to find a service manual and confirm if the wire is replaceable or not. If that coil is made for several different saws with different lead lengths the wire is likely replaceable.
 
Best splice is to expose the centre wires, solder them together, fill the gap with silicone RTV and let it cure, then cover the area with shrink tube.
Other candidates to fill the gap in the insulation before covering with heat shrink tube are electrician's splicing compound (self-vulcanising rubber in a roll: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b00011941/) and flexible PVC hot melt glue. I've used the hot melt glue under shrink tube in a pinch for underground splices when I didn't have self-sealing heat shrink available. A couple in my yard are still in service after 30 years.
 
Interesting and thanks!
Is that the way you do these things?

My idea involved this kinda "joint". - see picture.
The problem with the crimp connectors is they are quite balky and don't permit the same thickness of insulating material (RTV) around the joint. When you are dealing with high voltage (over 20kv), insulation is critical.
 
Hi i myself would not extend the wire to many chances for failure.It will unscrew from the coil. Husqvarna and jonsered used that coil on probable 20 saws.Husqvarna 340,345,350,351,353,357,359,365,372,385,390 and possibly others.Jonsered used it on a bunch of saws as well. So you can unscrew it and replace it or buy a good used coil.I wouldn't recommend aftermarket, yes they are cheap but you get what you pay for.HL supply sells coil wire and probibly others as well.Fix it right once or not halfass it a bunch and keep throwing time money and effort at it your choice.
 
Sounds like I am going to try and pull the wire out of the socket. If it fails so be it.

The extension solution doesnt seem like something Ill try and do.
Rather try an aftermarket is that is the case.


Thanks a ton everyone!
Very helpful as always.
 
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