Facing a chainsaw bar

[snaggletooth999]

Can anybody give any opinions as to the best method to re face a chainsaw Bar?

 

[SawTroll]

Welcome to AS!!!

...but you have to explain what you mean by "re face"..........

 

[SWE#Kipp]

grind the rails maybe !?

 

[Gypo Logger]

The regular use of a palm sander and flipping the bar is the best way to keep a bar in good shape, not to mention a good sprocket and sharp chain.
Bars that show burns, large wire edges and chipping are usually a sign of abuse.
John

 

[SawTroll]

The regular use of a palm sander and flipping the bar is the best way to keep a bar in good shape, not to mention a good sprocket and sharp chain.
Bars that show burns, large wire edges and chipping are usually a sign of abuse.
John

That is of course true.

I have a habit of removing any sign of wire edges with an 8" raker file every few days of use - probably overdoing it a bit, but better than the alternative......

 

[Tzed250]

Can anybody give any opinions as to the best method to re face a chainsaw Bar?

Pferd and Oregon(actually a Pferd tool, I think) makes a hand tool for dressing the bar rails. check it out:

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1349?mv_session_id=wQBvUQUj&product_sku=UKF

 

[wood rat]

I just use a file

 

[rbtree]

For simple repairs, the Pferd tool works well to keep the rails square. I also have a Silvey bar rail closer, which is hard to use, and does a poor job. But recently, I had these guys rejuvenate 13 bars. http://www.chainbar.com/ They make sure the bars are straight, then squeeze the rails together and regroove them. This results in a bar groove that is as good as new, unlike the job the cheapo tool does. I paid $130 for the 13 bars, from a low of $7 to a high of 13, in lengths from 20-36 inches. They also burnish them to a nice looking polished finish. I delivered them to their Portland, Oregon shop and picked them up, so that saved a bunch on shipping.....

 

[Al Smith]

I use a 6 by 48 belt sander.

 

[Lakeside53]

When I'm not at work using the right tool (bar grinder), I use a 12 inch round woodworking sander (stationary) with a 90 degree table on it. Works perfectly...

I use the Pferd tool for the edges (burrs) only - it's useless for the tops.

 

[Buzz 880]

The regular use of a palm sander and flipping the bar is the best way to keep a bar in good shape, not to mention a good sprocket and sharp chain.
Bars that show burns, large wire edges and chipping are usually a sign of abuse.
John

What grit pad do you use?

 

[Indiana John]

I use a bench-mounted belt/disc sander. I use the belt to remove the burrs from the sides of the rails, and the disc (with table set to 90 degrees) to square the tops of the rails to the sides. I use a medium grit on both the belt and the disc. These machines can be bought very reasonably thru places like Horror Freight or Fleabay. I dress my bars about every second or third chain sharpening.

 

[joesawer]

When using a bar grinder or sander with a table, always dress the side first as the bur will cause the bar to tip up slightly.

 

[Indiana John]

When using a bar grinder or sander with a table, always dress the side first as the bur will cause the bar to tip up slightly.

Agreed! That's the procedure I use, then I go back and do a final touch-up on the sides to remove any burrs left from the squaring at the disc. So belt, disc, then belt again.

 

[Engineeringnerd]

I usually use a Sharpie and first draw the eyes on either side of the bar by the bar's nose. I then finish with a angry looking mouth. I guess you could face it other ways, but that always works for me.

Honestly I just use a big bastard file, put the bar in a vise, and try my best to keep the file level. After I finish the surfaces perpendicular to the bar, I file the edges off at a steep angle and usually finish by running all the edges across my stiff wire wheel on my bench grinder. I then use a jigsaw blade to clean out all the grooves thoroughly, and a toothpick to clean out the oil holes.

Welcome to the site. As you can see, some feedback is more useful than others.

 

[046]

if I had chainbar close by, I'd use em too!

silvey rail closer works well for me. it can be a pita to learn to use. easy to close too much, then you've got to open slot back up.

a flat file drawn has done a good job for me. proof is in the cutting. nice and straight with chain riding just rite in groove. maintains even chain tension during full rotation.

For simple repairs, the Pferd tool works well to keep the rails square. I also have a Silvey bar rail closer, which is hard to use, and does a poor job. But recently, I had these guys rejuvenate 13 bars. http://www.chainbar.com/ They make sure the bars are straight, then squeeze the rails together and regroove them. This results in a bar groove that is as good as new, unlike the job the cheapo tool does. I paid $130 for the 13 bars, from a low of $7 to a high of 13, in lengths from 20-36 inches. They also burnish them to a nice looking polished finish. I delivered them to their Portland, Oregon shop and picked them up, so that saved a bunch on shipping.....

 

[brncreeper]

I use the PFERD edge sharpener from Bailey’s. It makes a nice flat and square edge.

 

[PA Plumber]

Rail dressing and bar grinding? I haven't done either. I flip my bar over every now and then and call it good enough. I'm not sure what to even look for.

I do clean out the bar groove and oil holes occasionally.

 

[sILlogger]

i use a vertical belt sander, flatten the tops, grind the edges down

PA PLUMBER, look at the tip of the bar and along the rails and see if the bar rails are rolling back, can cause the chain to run cattywampus and the bar to bind in the cut, can also be razor sharp and cu the h*ll out of you, got a few scars are the knucles from them

 

[snaggletooth999]

i use a vertical belt sander, flatten the tops, grind the edges down

PA PLUMBER, look at the tip of the bar and along the rails and see if the bar rails are rolling back, can cause the chain to run cattywampus and the bar to bind in the cut, can also be razor sharp and cu the h*ll out of you, got a few scars are the knucles from them

They certainly can get sharp and do ya a mischief. Thanks to all the response, I have always left it to the dealer/mechanic to do these kinda jobs, until I stated working pretty much full time with the saws, and find it way too expensive to get these jobs done that one should be able to do oneself. Seems most are in favour of the belt sander.