Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
A block you can lay in to finish your cut
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Falling pics 11/25/09
- Thread starter Burvol
- Start date
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Ah, not sure I'm ok with that... nor do I think that I'll ever have anything big enough for me to fit in and not look damn silly
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's more about getting the job done then looking decent I don't care for it either but on a board sometimes there's no choice.
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sarcasm... i look silly no matter what I'm doing.
haven't met a tree I couldn't fall with a 32" bar, though I've used bigger cause its easier/safer, 5' is the biggest and probably the biggest I'll ever see, and that can be done from one side with a 32" if ya know what yer doing and are a little lucky.
haven't met a tree I couldn't fall with a 32" bar, though I've used bigger cause its easier/safer, 5' is the biggest and probably the biggest I'll ever see, and that can be done from one side with a 32" if ya know what yer doing and are a little lucky.
I shouldn't be posting here but the largest snag I have cut to date was a little over 6 feet. I used a 33" bar (guessing effective 30" due to large falling spikes) and a little Euro style flare removal. Not promoting this as a universal method given holding wood concerns. Also takes time that a longer bar could have saved. Ron
a guy can also poke the center out from the face side, gets all that wood ya can't reach with too short a bar.
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ron the big thing is you got it down safely to this day I hate when a Forester say I have to keep a dead snag for a wildlife tree it's a target to slow stuff down.
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As an amateur firewooder I have bucked a dozen or so 4' to 5' urban trees that the line clearing crews put down, but personally I have never felled a tree over 36" dbh (only a few over 30"). I have cut down a handful of 4'+ storm damaged snags - some were challenging and fun. Maybe one day, I'll make it out West and one of you fellas will show me how to put a nice straight and tall softwood on the ground where intended. Nothing fancy needed to get my adrenaline going - don't need a lean, a 60* slope or spring boards, and definitely don't need a block. Preferably the last standing tree on level ground in the middle of a clear cut. If you ever come across one of those save it for me. Ron
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
You would do fine Ron.
Well, get out here then.
Though i think there is less chance of destroying good timber if yer tossing em into some other trees, more dangerous though.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Had to make this one fall into the wind, started with 2/3 of the back cut first and set the wedges ,did the face ,then finished the back cut while pounding it over ,neighbors house was behind me ,it had to go where it was ,had to go between other trees also without hanging up in them . Got 70 feet of good millable wood was 18 inches at 70 feet ,maybe a 100 foot stick total. Finish the bigger one today , its down but need to buck it still it was 32 at the stump cut ,should be lot of boards in it ,couple more are down the steep hill ,those should be fun to get to the road.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
For you guys with rw bars- how much easier do they bend in comparison to a regular bar? I tweak and torque on mine a lot. I'd like to try one but I feel like I would twist it all to hell. I pop the face out with em, bend it to ride the bind out of a buck, bend to roll the chain over, bend when I don't want to let go of the saw on a low stump but I'm on my feet and I need to look up etc...
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
I know my 36 RW Oregon bar if you don't watch it it'll flex in a cut, I can still pop a face out with it or use the dogs to pop them.
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hseII
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oregon's are too flexible for me.
Stihl ES Lights I'm trying out seem to be the best choice.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
The older ones used to flex more ,and centers used to pop out of them ,i have never had one pop yet ,even if a tree sets back ,they must have stiffened them up in the last couple years ,don't seem to bow as bad ,the stihl light is a few oz heavier ,but stiffer ,i run big chain (.404 )that helps some too ,I use the axe to pop the faces out so the flex don't bother me much ,if you do a lot of limbing ,your back will thank you for the rw bar ,they make a difference ,toughest bar i have is a cannon with the stihl type tip ,you could double it as a springboard almost ,i use them on the mill to get straiter cuts .
Skeans
Addicted to ArboristSite
The only bad part about Cannon is weight and they're not exactly cheap either but they're worth it from a 42" on up. The only cannon I have that's floppy is a 60" it looks like a wet noodle when you're hiking out with it.
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The light bars flex a great deal more, which is nice if you need to out a chain back on or get the tip started in an awkward position, the trade off is you have to be more care with making straight cuts, limbing for example i flex the bar quite a bit and end up throwing chains 3 or 4 times a day, if ya pay attention to chain tension a bit more it helps.
As far as bending them its better that ya don't the oregon type with the aluminium panels can be straightened a couple times but the stihl honey comb type are pretty much ****ed, got a stack of dicked 32's if anyone wants em
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
It sounds like it may not be the bar for me. There's several 3/8 63 gauge rw bars on walmart.com for $134 a piece free shipping. I've had a few cannons and I like them but they are heavy I've had guys tell me sugiharas are the ticket. I've run oregons for years and they seem to wear out as fast as anything else. I've had carltons, cannons, and stihls in between.
