Felling Frozen Trees

[SINGLE-JACK]

It's peak harvest/culling season, here. The bottom where I'm working has been well below freezing for over a month - very rare in these parts - never seen it this bad.

So, all the trees are frozen, hard - very brittle, falling like snags, dropping limbs, hinge breaks early, etc.

No worries, haven't had any problem trees ... yet ... BUT, before I do:

I'm hoping to get some honest advice from the Pro's (up North) that are used to working with frozen trees. Have you got any helpful tips about what (if anything) to do different when falling a frozen tree: more (or less) hinge, wedging, face cut, bore cut, etc., etc.?

Thanks in advance, Jack

 

[Marc]

Disclaimer: not a pro, but have worked with some

The biggest thing on my mind: because frozen wood tends to split easier, and the splits propagate further and faster, be ever the more vigilant about the possibility of barber chairs. Especially in species prone to it (red oak comes to mind right away). So I'm very careful with leaners and/or unbalanced crowns.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

I fall them like normal, just be more aware of the lay because if they hit anything on the ground or on the way down there is more of a chance of splitting. Also be aware that frozen trees have more of a tendancy to spit out wedges. I have been clearing some bitternut hickories lately and have found boring in the face of the notch really helps with not only splitting, but really reduces the amount of fibre pull. Frozen trees are also more apt to barber chair.

 

[bitzer]

I agree, that they will tend to spit out wedges easier. The trees are less forgiving obviously because they aren't as flexible. When they go they go though. Boreing first is a safe practice and try to avoiding hard wedging when possible. Trees that you could wedge in warmer temps can be a real ##### to wedge when frozen. I've also had hinges break when wedging, but that was at about 20 below F with the wind blowing. Not exactly ideal conditions. I would not leave more hinge it will make it harder to get moving. As far as face it depends on the tree. Unless you have to, try to fell them with the lean, because they will be harder to swing or wedge. You may want a slightly deeper face. It just depends on the tree though. The limbs should hold onto a green tree well enough. Dead stuff in the tree, always look up.

 

[fmaglin]

Here in Ohio the temps have been not much higher than 20 degrees by mid afternoon. I bore cut the head leaners, and usually walk out the lay. So far I've only had one Walnut split when it hit the ground. Just this afternoon I was wedging a Maple when it spit the wedge and hit me right square in the face. Nothin like eating some cold hard plastic when your face is cold to begin with.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I know a lot of guys don't want to hear "bore cut" but there's a time and place for it around here. Bore the face to eliminate the heartwood and shorten the hinge, this should eliminate all spliting in most situations.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

I know a lot of guys don't want to hear "bore cut" but there's a time and place for it around here. Bore the face to eliminate the heartwood and shorten the hinge, this should eliminate all spliting in most situations.

:agree2:Thats what I meant when I said bore in the notch. It really works good. It can save your most valuable timber.

 

[371groundie]

we take advantage of the cold and drop softwoods onto eachother, or past eachother on purpose to break all the liimbs off. when bucking out your logs the wood is also more prone to split. cut halfway through from the top and then finnish from the bottom, or vice versa depending on the tension.

hitting wedges HARD tends to make them spit back more than gentle hits. i swung an 8lb maul with a short handle one year until i got sick of hunting for my wedges in the snow. ive got like a 2.5 - 3 lb ax that does alot better. lots of gentle hits will drive the tree over without the wedge parting company.

remember that snow and ice can make your escape path more of a challenge. lots of times ill shovel a donut around the tree so i can get every inch of good log but then forget to make an escape. its sucks to remember your escape when the tree is on its way over.

 

[tramp bushler]

I agree, that they will tend to spit out wedges easier. The trees are less forgiving obviously because they aren't as flexible. When they go they go though. Boreing first is a safe practice and try to avoiding hard wedging when possible. Trees that you could wedge in warmer temps can be a real ##### to wedge when frozen. I've also had hinges break when wedging, but that was at about 20 below F with the wind blowing. Not exactly ideal conditions. I would not leave more hinge it will make it harder to get moving. As far as face it depends on the tree. Unless you have to, try to fell them with the lean, because they will be harder to swing or wedge. You may want a slightly deeper face. It just depends on the tree though. The limbs should hold onto a green tree well enough. Dead stuff in the tree, always look up.

Ya , what he said .... Seriously . Especially the fall them with the lean . If you need to wedge , get some 10" and a 12" textured plastic wedge with the teeth on one side ... Maybe if no one around there has them you could have one of the saw dealers who is a member on here send you some ... If you need more than a 10" wedge , most of the time you really need to think about what you are doing ...

 

[tramp bushler]

Here in Ohio the temps have been not much higher than 20 degrees by mid afternoon. I bore cut the head leaners, and usually walk out the lay. So far I've only had one Walnut split when it hit the ground. Just this afternoon I was wedging a Maple when it spit the wedge and hit me right square in the face. Nothin like eating some cold hard plastic when your face is cold to begin with.

.

. I,m all together too familar with that feeling .OUCH ... I can feel your pain !!!. Get some hard textured plastic , with the teeth on one side ... I put the teeth on the stump side , as it is the tree that moves , the teeth don,t stick in the butt log and take off with the tree .. That or use a Magie ,12" aluminum wedge , but I really don,t recomend them . some guys still don,t wear eye protection . and a maggy will put an eye out quick ....I mostly use a 28 oz. framing ( rig builders ) ax ....If I have to lift a big tree then a 5 lb 36" long pole handled rafting ax ... Or a big mallet ......

 

[tramp bushler]

I know a lot of guys don't want to hear "bore cut" but there's a time and place for it around here. Bore the face to eliminate the heartwood and shorten the hinge, this should eliminate all spliting in most situations.

.

.

. Yup .I do this alot , bore the heart out from the face side leave a post of holding wood on both sides unless I,m using a swing dutchman ....

 

[dingeryote]

we take advantage of the cold and drop softwoods onto eachother, or past eachother on purpose to break all the liimbs off. when bucking out your logs the wood is also more prone to split. cut halfway through from the top and then finnish from the bottom, or vice versa depending on the tension.

hitting wedges HARD tends to make them spit back more than gentle hits. i swung an 8lb maul with a short handle one year until i got sick of hunting for my wedges in the snow. ive got like a 2.5 - 3 lb ax that does alot better. lots of gentle hits will drive the tree over without the wedge parting company.

remember that snow and ice can make your escape path more of a challenge. lots of times ill shovel a donut around the tree so i can get every inch of good log but then forget to make an escape. its sucks to remember your escape when the tree is on its way over.

I'll second the escape route issue.
Ya can't move too quick with snow up to your knees, and quite often you'll find limbs in the snow the hard way and at the worst time.

If ya don't get whomped, the next issue is falling on pointy stuff.

Last time I forgot to stomp a hasty route and needed one, I swore I would never do that again.
It takes an extra Min. but even if it isn't needed, saves time finding stuff ya dropped or tossed while concentrating upwards.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[bitzer]

Just this afternoon I was wedging a Maple when it spit the wedge and hit me right square in the face. Nothin like eating some cold hard plastic when your face is cold to begin with.

I thought for sure I knocked some teeth out the last time it happened to me. I felt like I got punched really hard in the cheek. The first thing I did was make sure I had all of my pearlies in there. Lucky it wasn't my eye!





I also forgot to mention the escape. Like the others said the path is going to be harder to find unless you plan and clear it before you do anything. There is always more prep work in winter cutting. Its hard to move fast in 2 feet of snow and see what you are steppin on!

 

[fmaglin]

.

. I,m all together too familar with that feeling .OUCH ... I can feel your pain !!!. Get some hard textured plastic , with the teeth on one side ... I put the teeth on the stump side , as it is the tree that moves , the teeth don,t stick in the butt log and take off with the tree .. That or use a Magie ,12" aluminum wedge , but I really don,t recomend them . some guys still don,t wear eye protection . and a maggy will put an eye out quick ....I mostly use a 28 oz. framing ( rig builders ) ax ....If I have to lift a big tree then a 5 lb 36" long pole handled rafting ax ... Or a big mallet ......

Thanks for the tip on the teethed wedges. I'll have to try some.Today I used a Hard Head wedge and it seemed to work pretty well.... something about having that steel head really made it drive well. I always wear eye protection which would be an absolute must with the Hard Head as with a maggy.

 

[hammerlogging]

Thanks for the tip on the teethed wedges. I'll have to try some.Today I used a Hard Head wedge and it seemed to work pretty well.... something about having that steel head really made it drive well. I always wear eye protection which would be an absolute must with the Hard Head as with a maggy.

I cut a nice black walnut today and thought of you. We don't have much BW in our woods. But I do occasionally pass tractor trailer loads of BW rough cut. I think, $$$$$$$.

Cut a 750 bf cherry yesterday, not bad not bad.

The hard heads, they drive well as singles but I think they squirt out like hell if you have to stack them. And, they're awfully heavy. Me, K&H 12".

Hope all is well.

 

[Turkeyslayer]

I cut a nice black walnut today and thought of you. We don't have much BW in our woods. But I do occasionally pass tractor trailer loads of BW rough cut. I think, $$$$$$$.

Cut a 750 bf cherry yesterday, not bad not bad.

The hard heads, they drive well as singles but I think they squirt out like hell if you have to stack them. And, they're awfully heavy. Me, K&H 12".

Hope all is well.

When stacking wedges I like to take a little of the dirt/sawdust combo I got going on in my pockets, and sprinkle it between the wedges. Helps them stick together.

 

[tramp bushler]

Thanks for the tip on the teethed wedges. I'll have to try some.Today I used a Hard Head wedge and it seemed to work pretty well.... something about having that steel head really made it drive well. I always wear eye protection which would be an absolute must with the Hard Head as with a maggy.

.

. When doubling I like a 12" Hard Head and a 12" toothed . and I put the teeth on the tree side and the Hard Head on the stump side .......

 

[wldrbob]

we cut our face notch then cut both sides then the back cut it will break of 10 or so inches sq but you never split the frozen logs im in canada and we cut poplar white spruce tamarack and birch mostly not real big nothing over maybe 40 inches at the most

 

[tramp bushler]

Ya that works

we cut our face notch then cut both sides then the back cut it will break of 10 or so inches sq but you never split the frozen logs im in canada and we cut poplar white spruce tamarack and birch mostly not real big nothing over maybe 40 inches at the most

..

But , I prefer to cut the heart out and leave a post of holding wood on both sides , it helps steer the tree into it,s lay ......Plus it is easier to see what you have for holding wood ...... Alot of heart rot in Alaskan timber ...

 

[tramp bushler]

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