Filing kits

[HEAVY FUEL]

The Husky roller files, fast,accurate & simple. Won't go back to a Granberg til they come out with one for square files.

Cutters

Rakers

DONE!

 

[WKEND LUMBERJAK]

So does she Know what she doing or was it just because you are camera shy?

 

[REJ2]

Plenty of tips and good advice her for sure, so i'll add mine. Most important, dont be afraid to try it freehand. I got the various sized stihl guides, oregon guides, and the husky roller guide, they all work. Tried freehand and like it better. As i've said before, you'll make a dull chain better even on your first attempt. Sharp files, save edge for example, good light, consistently smooth and straight strokes, follow existing angles. Examine your work after two strokes you can see what your removing.

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

So does she Know what she doing or was it just because you are camera shy?

She wanted to learn so I showed her then let her have at it. I'm more on the side of just "touching up" the chains vs running them so dull it makes it a total PITA to file them.

 

[beelsr]

don't think they're avail. in the us (yet). $50 from the UK.

oh, they're available. but in blue as the pferd cs-x chainsharp. bailey's has them for $40 a pop...

page 20, item C of the 2012 master catalog.

fyi...

 

[KiwiOilBoiler]

I use a Stihl kit for my 3/8" chains, and ages ago bought dad a Vallorbe set for his .325 stuff. Seem same to me, as in file bolts in with thumb-screws rather than clipping in ala Oregon. They work good in the field, quick and easy, but should really be combined with a stump-vice so your sharpening force goes into the chain rather than chasing the saw around the pickup deck or log!

Word of my chainsaw addiction has got around, and recently i was given both an old Granberg and an Oregon bar mounted jig system. I kept the Granberg, metal construction felt better to me, and passed the Oregon onto dad once i replaced a few thumb-screw bolts. He loves it also. We have used them only for bringing back chains that are damaged rather than blunt (92 drive-links into hidden wire grown within stump, you get the idea!!!) and they are fantastic for this purpose but way too cumbersome too carry and set up in the field.

After all its only a chain, not 'rocket surgery', give it a go, you'll be amazed. (Dont forget the stump-vice, i smash mine into a lump of 8"x2" two feet long to use it on the workshop bench as my engineers vice is badly situated to hold saws steadily)

My 2c

Adam

 

[F6Hawk]

Heavyfuel, if she is half as good at stacking wood as she appears to be at sharpening, send her over when she's done there!! Between her and my son, I might be able to sit back and just sip tea while they work!!

But as to the OP, and sharpening in general.... just do it yourself, as many have said here. Learn how to file properly, how to hold the proper angle (~25-30° depending on manufacturer specs), as well as the proper 10° handle-down angle (not parallel to the floor). If you take your time, you can do it. And as far as messing up a chain... so what? If you happen to screw up a chain or two while getting proficient, that is only about $30 down the drain, but not really, cuz you are using them while you are making mistakes. Still cutting wood.

I looked at and considered the Granberg, looks like an accurate tool. But IMHO, too much setup involved. Might be good in the shop, but not for me in the field. I just bought a new 346XP, and got the Husq Sharp Force (Pferd tool) 653000035 Husqvarna Sharp Force Chain Saw File 3/16" | eBay. Got mine with from the local dealer for $27. It is pretty fool proof, takes the rakers down with each sharpening, can be done QUICKLY on the bar... and while I have only used it on the bench thus far, I can see it being a quick and easy way to touch up the teeth when refilling the liquids.

Not everyone can be an expert at sharpening knives (or saw chains), but if you know how to use a saw, being able to sharpen your own chain is a great task to become proficient at. When I bought my saw, the dealer showed me the Pferd, and how to use it properly. He told me he would gladly sharpen my chains for me, but if I learn to do it myself, it's less work for him. And saves me $10 every time. Now THAT is a dealer I will send my friends to!! (He also talked me out of skip chain and gave me an extra 20LPX and a free annual tune-up for buying from him.)

 

[Angelos]

While I was waiting for the Granberg, I got an Oregon file guide, a file and a stump vice.
First I set the rakers , then I filed the teeth. My chain is 3/8 1.5mm. I used a 5.5mm file as recommended.
One thing I noticed is that the teeth were filed at an angle between 25 and 30 degrees at the shop.
I tried to adjust it to 25 degrees , and what I have get is a very sharp chain. It worries me though , that the teeth lost their hook like shape. I'll see tomorrow at the field.

 

[tdi-rick]

[snip]
It worries me though , that the teeth lost their hook like shape. I'll see tomorrow at the field.

Which is why I recommend the Husky roller guide.

The only other clip on file guide that holds the file at a decent height for good self feeding is the Vallorbe one.

 

[timber_horse]

Have any part numbers?

Stihl 2 in 1 file kit

3/8 P 5605 750 4303
.325 5605 750 4304
3/8 5605 750 4305

Spare flat file 0814 252 3001

 

[Currently]

Stihl 2 in 1 file kit

3/8 P 5605 750 4303
.325 5605 750 4304
3/8 5605 750 4305

Spare flat file 0814 252 3001

Not available in north america .... yet.

Dealer called corporate for me last week, they knew what it was and no commitment when it will be available here.


Hey, if I paypal money to you, can you ship me one? Let me know what cost and shipping is ... Sure would appreciate it!

 

[jeffbayne]

I use the Pferd CS-x. It is beyond foolproof, and in minutes makes my chains as good as from the factory. They're expensive, but I have one for each saw (different sizes).

Bailey's - Pferd CS-X Chain Sharp Filing Guide - 13/64"

jeff

It sure looks like Stihl is just rebadging it- looks just like the pics the others have posted.

 

[Currently]

I use the Pferd CS-x. It is beyond foolproof, and in minutes makes my chains as good as from the factory. They're expensive, but I have one for each saw (different sizes).

Bailey's - Pferd CS-X Chain Sharp Filing Guide - 13/64"

jeff

It sure looks like Stihl is just rebadging it- looks just like the pics the others have posted.

Sweet! Going to give that a try.

 

[jeffbayne]

Sweet! Going to give that a try.

You'll love it- I've found the key is if you file often, you can file fast- 3 strokes per tooth or so. When you need replacement files, get Save Edge files. The guys on here usually say they're the best, and I'd confirm that. It'll be a long long time before you need a replacement raker file.

 

[beelsr]

Not available in north america .... yet.

Dealer called corporate for me last week, they knew what it was and no commitment when it will be available here.


Hey, if I paypal money to you, can you ship me one? Let me know what cost and shipping is ... Sure would appreciate it!

see post #45.

unless you need it in white and orange... :msp_mellow:

 

[Currently]

see post #45.

unless you need it in white and orange... :msp_mellow:

But your post did not have a picture! :hmm3grin2orange:

Advice has been taken. Ordering one tomorrow.

 

[beelsr]

But your post did not have a picture! :hmm3grin2orange:

Advice has been taken. Ordering one tomorrow.

good deal. chain doesn't care what color the handle is... :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Da Nag]

Based on reviews here and elsewhere, I picked up a Pferd CS-X as well. Can't recommend it highly enough. That being said - this is coming from a complete amateur. Which to my mind, speaks even more to the great design and ease of use.

Just picked up a 24" bar and some LGX to update a 272XP given to me by my dad. I'm cutting up some really dirty stuff, and that combined with all the noob ground touches dulls things quickly. After my initial familiarization with the tool, it's taking me less than 5 minutes to bring the chain back better than new. Three quick swipes per cutter, and the chips fly.

 

[w8ye]

In 1977 I bought a new Homelite XL150 chainsaw and had a interest in sharpening my own chain.

I bought at the bookstore Barnacle Parp's Chainsaw Guide and followed the instructions.

It involved using a guide plate for the teeth which I bought the Oregon file plate and file at the local hardware store.

Chain worked fine and I have never ruined a chain yet in the last 35 years.

I got rid of the vibrating Homelite 150XL vibrator 15 years ago.

 

[heimannm]

In addition to an inexpensive grinder (Carlton), I have quite a few different types of file guides. It is easy to collect interesting jigs and guides, not all of them get used frequently.

I like the Carlton File-O-Plate best, keeps the file at the proper height to the tooth and allows me to adjust the angle if I want to. I like the progressive depth gauge on the File-O-Plate as well. The biggest drawback to the File-O-Plate in my opinion is it does tend to dull a file much more quickly since you are constantly in contact with the stainless steel plate. Except for this issue, the File-O-Plate would be my #1 guide for sharpening all chains. I have a pretty complete inventory of sizes and types so I can handle most chains that come along with the exception of those over .404 pitch.

I also have the Husqvarna guides and while I have used them, I find they to not fit a wide variety of chain types and in the process of collecting saws and such, I have a lot of different chains as well. I do not find the Husky depth gauge to be a easy to use as the Carlton.

In the past 12 months or so I have picked up several of the roller type guides sold as "Windsor" brand. I really like the feel of these, and I like the guides better than the Husky type. Like the Husky, they don't fit all types of chain. To be honest I don't even remember if the Windsor guide has a depth gauge of any sort.

I also have a couple of the Oregon and one Granberg for bar mounted guides. I have used the Oregon to try and make a more aggressive chain for "racing" but have to agree that is it not a particularly solid device. The Granberg is a vintage model still in the package, I don't know if I will take it out and use it, or just keep in in the box.

I also have three different types of file mounted guides:

One is a "V" shaped guide that does work very nicely on the large pitch chains (1/2, 9/16, and 5/8" pitch) but the small diameter files in the .325 guide seem to flex.

I also have several of the ones Rockcrusher sold on e-bay with a simple round rod with the file attached. I like the way it helps me to hold the proper depth with filing the teeth, but provides complete flexibility on the angles. If I only had one guide to choose from, this would be my choice since it can work with virtually any chain size or type.

Lastly, I have several of the flat type guides that the file attaches to and ride on the cutters to control the depth when filing. I like these the least and only use one if there is no other tool to help me.

I have filed a few chains free hand, but find that I need a guide every so often or I tend to get the file too low in the tooth, cuts quickly for a bit but does not hole the edge very long.

For depth gauges (rakers, drags, etc.) I like the Herr tool and have them in 0.030. 0.035, and 0.040". I have a couple of others in 0.020 and 0.025" but prefer the Herr for most of my needs. Keep in mind that I do sharpen a number of large pitch chains for the old gear drive saws so 0.035 and 0.040 are not excessive for regular use.

I have not tried the "all in one" type tools from Pferd or Stihl, perhaps one day when somebody lets me try one I will add yet another tool to the box of chain sharpening options.

All this to say to the OP: Your shop has really let you down regarding chain sharpening options. I have been in a number of places where they will not adjust the depth gauges when the sharpen chains; if they don't understand chain sharpening any better than that, well it would be best to use some other option.

Mark