Finally got me a splitter...

[DrewUth]

Picked this up last night for a song. Engine started first pull from stone cold. In super nice shape, stored indoors, lightly used, etc. However, the ram doesn't move in or out. Guy I bought it from was convinced it was the valve, however I am not sure. I'll be tearing into it after work today, I play to check the easy stuff first- is the motor turning the pump? Is the filter clogged with shyte?

Can these get airlocked? also...is it ok to pull a hose from the valve to see if the pump is pushing fluid?

 

[farmer steve]

View attachment 462432
Picked this up last night for a song. Engine started first pull from stone cold. In super nice shape, stored indoors, lightly used, etc. However, the ram doesn't move in or out. Guy I bought it from was convinced it was the valve, however I am not sure. I'll be tearing into it after work today, I play to check the easy stuff first- is the motor turning the pump? Is the filter clogged with shyte?

Can these get airlocked? also...is it ok to pull a hose from the valve to see if the pump is pushing fluid?

internet mechanic here. napa has filters reasonable. fluid level should be checked or maybe changed. air is usually purged from the system when the ram is cycled a few times. but hey what do i know? i just tore the pump off of mine this morning and it's laying in pieces on the shop floor. good luck Drew. the experts will be along shortly.

 

[DrewUth]

internet mechanic here. napa has filters reasonable. fluid level should be checked or maybe changed. air is usually purged from the system when the ram is cycled a few times. but hey what do i know? i just tore the pump off of mine this morning and it's laying in pieces on the shop floor. good luck Drew. the experts will be along shortly.

Thanks! I hope so!

 

[midwest_170]

1st make sure you have oil in the system. After that crack the fittings on the cylinder and operate if no oil comes out work your way back down the line till you get to the pump. If you don't have oil coming out anywhere then it's your pump.

 

[farmer steve]

Thanks! I hope so!

got my pump back on with a couple of trips to TSC and help from my buddy mechanic. i used http://www.daltonhydraulic.com/shop-by-category to buy my pump. they have most of the stuff you need for splitters.

 

[DrewUth]

The coupler was sheared completely. A quick ride to TSC and we are in business!


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[bigbadbob]

Great to see a cheap and easy fix!!!
BTW what song did you get it for?? LOL
BBB

 

[cmsmoke]

That will do it!

 

[Marine5068]

View attachment 462432
Picked this up last night for a song. Engine started first pull from stone cold. In super nice shape, stored indoors, lightly used, etc. However, the ram doesn't move in or out. Guy I bought it from was convinced it was the valve, however I am not sure. I'll be tearing into it after work today, I play to check the easy stuff first- is the motor turning the pump? Is the filter clogged with shyte?

Can these get airlocked? also...is it ok to pull a hose from the valve to see if the pump is pushing fluid?

How much was it? The splitter I mean.

 

[Yoopermike]

Id say that lovejoy has seen better days.

 

[DrewUth]

The song was to the tune of $450 just threw some red oak at it and they were popping apart. I gotta build catchers for either side next.


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[bigbadbob]

You did very good!!!
You should move this to the You Suck thread!!!
Enjoy the splitter!!!
BBB

 

[farmer steve]

The coupler was sheared completely. A quick ride to TSC and we are in business!


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glad to see it was an easy fix. looks like the same one i bought yesterday at TSC. my old one was good but the new pump had a different size shaft. curious as to what would cause one to shear apart like that.

 

[DrewUth]

As I was installing it, I noticed that after the previous owner replaced the engine, he modified the coupler to suit the fact that the end of the crank was about a 1/2" longer on the new motor. He drilled out the center of the plastic damper on the coupling to allow the pump side to be installed further into the shaft. By drilling it out, he substantially reduced the amount of material and the durability of the damper. I'm sure that once the plastic damper failed, with all the extra play in the metal parts it was only a matter of time before they wore away.

The replacement coupler uses a rubber damper versus a hard plastic one. I spaced the pump back a 1/2" away from the motor to allow the coupler to be installed properly, and that combined with the rubber vs plastic material I believe will provide proper longevity of the coupler.


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[Marshy]

I wish I came across things like that. Some people just shouldn't be allowed to own wrenches lol. Nice score, congrats, you suck.

 

[KARB2014]

I have the same splitter. My uncle bought it used back in 96. Since then that little guy has split over a thousand cords( There is three of us who us it non stop). We replaced the engine 3yrs ago with a Harbor freight predator engine and haven't had any issues.

 

[whitepine2]

The replacement coupler uses a rubber damper versus a hard plastic one. I spaced the pump back a 1/2" away from the motor to allow the coupler to be installed properly, and that combined with the rubber vs plastic material I believe will provide proper longevity of the coupler.

I think the so called plastic is much longer lasting than the rubber one and about bubble the cost but well worth it as it slows down downtime when they fail.

 

[olympyk_999]

The replacement coupler uses a rubber damper versus a hard plastic one. I spaced the pump back a 1/2" away from the motor to allow the coupler to be installed properly, and that combined with the rubber vs plastic material I believe will provide proper longevity of the coupler.

I think the so called plastic is much longer lasting than the rubber one and about bubble the cost but well worth it as it slows down downtime when they fail.

misalignment of the shafts will cause those to wear...if its lined up properly they should last a very long time...but this is a "cheap" splitter and they don't hold very tight tolerances...along with in store assembly from unqualified employees doesn't help

 

[farmer steve]

As I was installing it, I noticed that after the previous owner replaced the engine, he modified the coupler to suit the fact that the end of the crank was about a 1/2" longer on the new motor. He drilled out the center of the plastic damper on the coupling to allow the pump side to be installed further into the shaft. By drilling it out, he substantially reduced the amount of material and the durability of the damper. I'm sure that once the plastic damper failed, with all the extra play in the metal parts it was only a matter of time before they wore away.

The replacement coupler uses a rubber damper versus a hard plastic one. I spaced the pump back a 1/2" away from the motor to allow the coupler to be installed properly, and that combined with the rubber vs plastic material I believe will provide proper longevity of the coupler.


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the hard plastic is urethane. much more durable than the rubber ones.

I wish I came across things like that. Some people just shouldn't be allowed to own wrenches lol. Nice score, congrats, you suck.

that would probably be me Marshy. i bought some real good ones and the dang things didn't even come with operating instructions.

 

[DrewUth]

Well I can't say that I put real effort into ensuring the shafts were perfectly aligned- the pieces fit together, I just figured the flexibility of the coupler via the dampening material would allow some variation.

I split about 1/3 cord with it today, all fresh cut (green) white and red oak. I hammered it into some gnarly knots and Ys, and it pushed right through them all.


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