First post: Received varied comments re: MS260 Pro from the dealers

[Just Mow]

Because of the dealer support and the reliability of the 260, I would imagine that this is the saw for you. It is balanced fairly well and the power is very good for what you are going to be doing.
Go get it and be careful on the ladder.

 

[BostonBull]

I understand and appreciate your thoughts.

Am not getting up really high in the trees though the upper limbs do need some pruning.

At fifty four, and with years of big wall and alpine climbing, I trust my balance.

In ten years, I doubt if I'll be doing what I'm doing on the trees as I do now.

I do take it very easy traveling up and down the ladder and on the limbs with the saw.

This is a big reason why weight and saw balance are important.

Not to bash you but thats a pretty arrogant statement! What if a branch swings back into the ladder and kocks it out from under you?

Alpine/wall/rock climbing is NOT tree climbing........much different. I would hate to see us all not say something and then have you banged up real god and we all feel bad for not saying it.

 

[wood rat]

The only way I go up in a tree is with spiked boots. Ladders are a prescription for disaster . As you say you were a former climber you then know that a 16 foot fall can at best kill you at worst leave you brain dead or paralyzed from the neck down. Medical bills will be in the thousands ... now how much were those climbing spurs ?

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/1245?mv_session_id=G6ERmIDv&product_sku=WC 1003

 

[precaud]

Many on this site consider it their duty to talk everyone into a bigger saw than they need. In Denver, you'll be cutting mostly softwoods, so an MS260 with 18" bar/chain will easily handle the tasks you've described. Maybe even a 16" for more nimble handling.

 

[Climb14er]

Not to bash you but thats a pretty arrogant statement! What if a branch swings back into the ladder and kocks it out from under you?

Alpine/wall/rock climbing is NOT tree climbing........much different. I would hate to see us all not say something and then have you banged up real god and we all feel bad for not saying it.

Like I said before, I understand the comments on safety.

For the record, I don't cut while standing on the ladder. I find a position slightly above the limb on another limb/branch and then make my cut.

I appreciate the safety comments and if you knew me, you'd know that I'm not a man of boast or climbing ego.

It looks as if the MS260 Pro will be a good saw. And I will get some chaps and climbing hardware for the really high (and low) positions.

Thanks for all the posts!

 

[WRW]

Most have recommended going up a size, I'm going to recommend going down a size. Ask your local dealers about a rear handled 200. If it is available, it is lighter than the 260 and will handle the limbs you have mentioned.

 

[adkranger]

First off; go with the 260pro w/16" B/C and don't look back. Great saw, yes older design, but rock solid performer that will last a long time, durable. 16" Bar balances best, best ergonomics.

Second; you guys need to ease up on the ladder thing. I see plenty of ladders on arborists' rigs all over the place. While I personally detest ladders, they can be utilized safely for accessing a tree's crown/limbs if used with a bit of common sense(I think a former mountaineering guide that retired in good health has a bit of this.......) A few things to make your ladder experience safer, a tie off or lanyard for the ladder placed near top or upper third, separate safety system for yourself for limb walking(I trust a former guide would know a thing or two about fall arrest/prevention) and finally bring up your saw via rope after you tie in so you can use both hands on ladder and to secure same. Oh, to the spike/spur reference, I'm sure he doesn't want to poke all sorts of holes into trees he's pruning. While I have been trained on both, I fail to see how recommending he simply go to Bailey's to purchase a set of spurs mitigates his hazards from ladder crown access. I think sending someone up a tree in spurs w/o proper instruction is as hazardous or more so than ladder ascention.

Good luck and happy cuttin'.:chainsawguy:

 

[XJWoody]

Most have recommended going up a size, I'm going to recommend going down a size. Ask your local dealers about a rear handled 200. If it is available, it is lighter than the 260 and will handle the limbs you have mentioned.

I was wondering when someone would toss this one into the mix.

If I were contemplating the type of work the OP was (amateur arboreal pruning + small wood processing/clean-up on the ground) I'd want the something towards the light end of the spectrum. A MS200 rear handle would do that nicely. It might be a little taxed with dropping and blocking larger wood, but by taking ones time & keeping the chain sharp, it'd get it done...

Or look into the two-saw plan: One small/light 40cc-+ for the trimming and one 60cc+ for chomping up the bigger stuff on the ground (MS200/361, MS 192/290 etc) Even if the bigger saw was bought second hand...

Welcome to AS!

 

[BostonBull]

First off; go with the 260pro w/16" B/C and don't look back. Great saw, yes older design, but rock solid performer that will last a long time, durable. 16" Bar balances best, best ergonomics.

Second; you guys need to ease up on the ladder thing. I see plenty of ladders on arborists' rigs all over the place. While I personally detest ladders, they can be utilized safely for accessing a tree's crown/limbs if used with a bit of common sense(I think a former mountaineering guide that retired in good health has a bit of this.......) A few things to make your ladder experience safer, a tie off or lanyard for the ladder placed near top or upper third, separate safety system for yourself for limb walking(I trust a former guide would know a thing or two about fall arrest/prevention) and finally bring up your saw via rope after you tie in so you can use both hands on ladder and to secure same. Oh, to the spike/spur reference, I'm sure he doesn't want to poke all sorts of holes into trees he's pruning. While I have been trained on both, I fail to see how recommending he simply go to Bailey's to purchase a set of spurs mitigates his hazards from ladder crown access. I think sending someone up a tree in spurs w/o proper instruction is as hazardous or more so than ladder ascention.

Good luck and happy cuttin'.:chainsawguy:

Ladders should only be used when hand snipping/pruning or for accessing a tree!

 

[TREEWACKA]

A Big Texas Howdy Climb14er, welcome to the forum, I'm a junior member also. I ordered a ms 260 pro last week. Be sure you get the pro instead of the ms 260 that my dealer said was the only saw in that category that stihl made. Thank goodness I have a friend that works in the area distributor/corporate office. The closest one to you would be Intermountain Stihl, Aurora, Co. @ 303-340-2787. I ask my dealer (bless his heart, he's getting very old, and probably will soon retire) to call and he would find out that there are several different things about the pro. One being the decompression valve & adj. chain oiler. I plan to run 3/8 pitch chain and the dealer can change the rim sprocket to match. Another thing you might want to consider is the ElastoStart starter handle, part # 0000-190-3401. Superfire is right about the dawgs though, being a little rinkedink. As I saw left handed I need big dawgs. I hate to admit it, I also use a ladder from time to time, but through the years I have developed a special technique loaded with safety that works for me.

 

[gdn]

By now you must know the saw you need, just wanted to lend a little support to the ladder thing; all day long i sit in my chipper truck watch so called arborists throw their little balls around the wrong branches and then throw more balls up to try untangle the first ones and then climb the tree and untangle them by hand.
Many many times I ask myself why do we not use ladders like the forestry pruners do, why don't we use ladders like the apple pruners do.
+1 for avoiding cutting whilst on the ladder though, especially if a big limb.
Don't know if practical for you but we used to use 3 legged ladders, the middle leg swings out in front of ladder creating stable freestanding access. I think the forestry ladders go up to 18', maybe more. We had steel and alloy, alloy best.
A pole belt(??) is a good idea, rope you loop around tree and tie to waist when cutting.
remember if you're standing/sitting on the limb you're cutting it will kick back as soon as you drop the weight, my aborist mate always complains about his sore ass from doing this.
good luck

 

[logbutcher]

Ladder Sawing: Just Say "NO"

I understand and appreciate your thoughts.

Am not getting up really high in the trees though the upper limbs do need some pruning.

At fifty four, and with years of big wall and alpine climbing, I trust my balance.

In ten years, I doubt if I'll be doing what I'm doing on the trees as I do now.

I do take it very easy traveling up and down the ladder and on the limbs with the saw.

This is a big reason why weight and saw balance are important.

Eastern "small wall" climber here. Just is not the same, good balance or not.
Any chainsaw has torque and bite. When it kicks if you're on a ladder, where will the the force go and where will it slice ? ThiMk about how we put protection in PLANNING the direction and force of the fall. The ladder is unsecured, you are not tied in to the ladder (are you ? :hmm3grin2orange: )Pro arborists BOTH climb and cut with more and different protection than we use on rock. Smaller saws are used in trees, like a 200. And, never, ever cut from any ladder. Old fellas like you shouldn't be using a chain saw.:hmm3grin2orange:
Mommie has spoken :chainsawguy: :biggrinbounce2:

 

[RiverRat2]

Climbing gear!!!!

Like I said before, I understand the comments on safety.

For the record, I don't cut while standing on the ladder. I find a position slightly above the limb on another limb/branch and then make my cut.

I appreciate the safety comments and if you knew me, you'd know that I'm not a man of boast or climbing ego.

It looks as if the MS260 Pro will be a good saw. And I will get some chaps and climbing hardware for the really high (and low) positions.

Thanks for all the posts!

Yep since you are into climbing already, it would only make sense you get the complete set up, Climbing belt/harness/lanyard, (spurs probably not needed if accessing byway of ladder),,,anyway still need chaps, hearing and Eye protection,,,, helmet?? maybe your rock helmet will work??? sounds like ya already have the bug,,,,, or at least a belt and harness to keep ya from falling out of that tree!!!!!! LOL there is a ton of links on the site to get every thing you need,,, even a Silky pole mountable hand saw for the hard to reach and small stuff,,,, they actually make the prettiest cuts anyway,,,JMHO,,, Stihl makes one of them too BTW,,,check it out when you are at the dealer, they also have a PPE bag deal that includes chaps, gloves,eyewear etc its pretty decent,,
and I almost agree with the saw selection,,, taking nothing away from the 260 pro,,,, but for climbing,,,, when I still could,,, 020T now MS200T with a 14/16" absolutely freaking Rocks for its size,,,,, then,,, If I was needing a gound saw for what you are describing the 361 w/18 or 20" bar....

ahh man look now ya got two saws ????//@#!!!

Ha ha ha ha,,,, Decisions, decisions,,,,

Good luck and welcome,,,,

 

[adkranger]

Ladders should only be used when hand snipping/pruning or for accessing a tree!

And your point being?? That is different from mine and Climber's? I quite clearly stated the ladder was for access and to have separate system for climber. Further, he quite clearly stated that he used ladder for ACCESS only and made his cuts from the tree itself. Some on here need to learn to read the entire thread............ Several of the posters seem to have missed this important point, so I'll reiterate. He uses the ladder for ACCESS only, not cutting from ladder.

Ladders are not my favorite pieces of equipment, in fact I've probably only dragged one to a tree job as many times as I've got fingers. So it's a little ironic that I'm the one here defending their use, but this guy is clearly looking for input on saws, not ladders.

:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :monkey:

 

[2000ssm6]

Let's talk about ladders....Hey you can go into lowes and get your ladder and a chainsaw(if you call those a chainsaw). Knocking out 2 birds with one stone

 

[BostonBull]

And your point being?? That is different from mine and Climber's? I quite clearly stated the ladder was for access and to have separate system for climber. Further, he quite clearly stated that he used ladder for ACCESS only and made his cuts from the tree itself. Some on here need to learn to read the entire thread............ Several of the posters seem to have missed this important point, so I'll reiterate. He uses the ladder for ACCESS only, not cutting from ladder.

Ladders are not my favorite pieces of equipment, in fact I've probably only dragged one to a tree job as many times as I've got fingers. So it's a little ironic that I'm the one here defending their use, but this guy is clearly looking for input on saws, not ladders.

:deadhorse: :deadhorse: :deadhorse: :monkey:

I read the WHOLE post! I was the second or third poster in this thread, and then right after that when ????E hit the fan about the ladder the original post was edited. He made it sound like he was cutting limbs FROM his ladder.

I know th post was about saws, but if someone goes to a welding site asking about a welder and also mentions that he might use it to weld old oil tanks you dont think there wont be a couple posts about safety....especially seeing as how ths guy is new around here!

 

[Climb14er]

I read the WHOLE post! I was the second or third poster in this thread, and then right after that when ????E hit the fan about the ladder the original post was edited. He made it sound like he was cutting limbs FROM his ladder.

You've got some imaginary memory.

It's amazing that people could read into my initial edit which had nothing to do with what is being discussed re: ladder access.

I edited the initial post at 6:25

PA Plumber made his comment which includes the ladder thing at 6:28

I don't know what you're talking about or what your agenda is.

I've been courteous and appreciative the entire thread.

What more can I offer?

............................................

I kind of feel as if I want to buy three saws: 260 Pro, 361 and the Professional 200.

Plus climbing spurs, safety harnesses, the whole kit and caboodle.

See what this thread and forum is doing to my wallet.

 

[2000ssm6]

You've got some imaginary memory.

It's amazing that people could read into my initial edit which had nothing to do with what is being discussed re: ladder access.

I edited the initial post at 6:25

PA Plumber made his comment which includes the ladder thing at 6:28

I don't know what you're talking about or what your agenda is.

I've been courteous and appreciative the entire thread.

What more can I offer?

............................................

I kind of feel as if I want to buy three saws: 260 Pro, 361 and the Professional 200.

Plus climbing spurs, safety harnesses, the whole kit and caboodle.

See what this thread and forum is doing to my wallet.

I thought you were trimming from the ladder also...my bad. That 3 saw plan sounds like a dream. Those are the top saws in all 3 classes

 

[adkranger]

I read the WHOLE post! I was the second or third poster in this thread, and then right after that when ????E hit the fan about the ladder the original post was edited. He made it sound like he was cutting limbs FROM his ladder.

I know th post was about saws, but if someone goes to a welding site asking about a welder and also mentions that he might use it to weld old oil tanks you dont think there wont be a couple posts about safety....especially seeing as how ths guy is new around here!

...and considering he's new to the site I don't like to see him unnecessarily beat up over something he does not appear to be doing. Does not entice one to stay with the site........

People are still posting on the subject into page three.

No worries Climb14er, I "hear" you.

Can't we get back on topic now?

A two saw line up would be perfect. Say a 200 & 361 or 360, the 200 for limbing above and the 360/361 for felling/bucking firewood. Of course that's a pricey option. A 260 would fill the dual roll nicely in one saw IMHO.

 

[BostonBull]

I, like many others flt you were cutting limbs off the tree WHILE standing from the ladder.

I apologize, obviously you arent. I would rather have said my peace than have read about you messing yuorself up good and us reading about you in the paper, and then feeing bad for not saying something.

As for the saw choices. If all your cutting is 12" and under limbs a MS200 will do great, if thats a litle rich then save some cash and get a MS250.

For a compliment to this saw a MS361 is a gem, and a used 360, or 440 would be good also.