Lots of different ways to sharpen a chain. YOU have to decide what works for YOU.
Alright guys I picked up an inexpensive chain grinder, and oregon knock off.
There are several threads on 'tuning up' the knock-off grinders. Do a
Search for 'Northern Tool Grinders' (one of the popular brands) and you will find a lot of useful information. Some grinders need a little help out of the box, or when acquired used. As Lambs noted, don't assume that it is dead-on accurate until you have 'calibrated' it against a new chain, or with an accurate protractor and micrometer.
The Oregon 511A manual is not perfect, but can be helpful.
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http://www.baileysonline.com/PDF/Oregon511amanual_english.pdf
I am looking to see if there is a set of numbers most of you guys use for 50-75 cc saws running 3/8, 50 gauge, full chisel mostly and some semi chisel chains.
Manufacturers post specific angles for their chains, but these are starting points to cover a wide range of users. For most chains, I start with a vise rotation of 30 degrees (Right and Left) and a grinding head angle of 55 to 60 degrees. You can vary these if you want - the key thing is to get
both edges of each cutter sharp, and every cutter on a loop the
same (angles, cutter length, depth gauge height).
Again, as Lambs noted, some people tilt their vise 10 degrees for full chisel chain. Some people don't. Some vises don't tilt (so this may not even be an option)!
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OREGON Maintenance and Safety Manual
1. Take your time. Use lots of light taps - if the cutter changes color you have overheated (and probably hardened it) - go back and take just a little more off to grind this part away.
2. Press each cutter down in the holding vise with a finger or stick as you tighten the vise clamp - holds it tighter (learned that here on A.S.!).
3. Dress the grinding wheel frequently with a carbide stone to keep the profile/shape,
but also to expose fresh grit (reduces risk of burning).
4. Only take the wheel down as far as a round file would go - if you want to clean out the gullets, go back and do that on a later pass.
I check my depth gauges each time with an Oregon type tool. I hand file them if needed, because it is easier for me. Some guys like the progressive gauges - if the chain is not cutting aggressively enough, I just take a little more off.
Philbert