Flywheel from a really warm place.

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bugfart

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Well, after enjoying the benefits of being pushed into the pool, (my original reluctance to remove a cylinder) I figured it was time to get it together with some timing and milk some RPM's out of a Homie here.

I got a sxl925 that was owned by a municipality. They correctly claimed the flywheel was broken. What was eventually discovered was the fins and posts were sheered off. So I'm standing there with my new cheapie flywheel remover in my hand like a case of Alices'Restraunt blind justice with nowhere to put the screws provided...

So I improvise with other larger threaded screws with delight as I sheered the heads off of 3/8 coarse threaded bolts eventually to no avail. I apply heat... tighten screws... and I continue this timing the torch and slowly approach the snapping point of bolts... 4 days later it comes off when I reached my breaking point and smacked it with a hammer and bad-intent. I now had to remove one from another parts saw to repair it. The thing pops right off. I'm half elated at the success half pissed at the original ordeal. Figures...

So I decided to welcome myself to the world of small engine repair again...

4 days, just long enough for me to read about Homelites and advancing the timing. I have read that advancing them about the width of the keyway does wonders.

Anybody care to back that up here? My understanding is that it may become a tad more difficult to start so ... I'm thinking just a few degrees. The keyway was as difficult as anything but I am now the prahd (yinzer) owner of a hammer delligated specifically for chainsaws. I also have my own "special chissel" to go with it. So if the world goes down in a hand-basket I can always "chissel" these messages out on rock. Editting is a stinker tho.

What I'm wondering now... is the weight of these things. I think I have found some of the extra weight in the 82cc Super series. Flywheel weight is the emphasis of the post.
 
There are several ways to advance the timing on a breaker points system.
Ideally the spark is generated at the point where the center of the magnets align with the center of the coil pole pieces,as this would be the "hottest" area.
You can get several degrees of advance by simply setting the points to open sooner but they have to be in the area where the magnets and pole pieces are intersecting.Another method is by using an offset key.In other words the key has been milled where you gain a portion of the key-way space.
Too much advance will tend to make them "kick back".On that subject I have a 6-10 Mac that I had to take back closer to factory specs because it became too painful to start,ouch,poor fingers.
 
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