for those running points Stihl 028

[295 tramp]

Some of those 028 flywheels had 2 slots cut for the key depending on what type of ignition was on the saw.
Sounds like what I'm encountering on my stihl 07.
I have the same symptoms except for the jerking.
I stihl have points installed on mine.
Try starting it without the choke, if it still floods then it's probably a carb issue.

 

[junkman]

I'm running the original flywheel that came with points 30 years ago. A shop selling parts confirmed based on part number when I was researching the need for a different flywheel.
I have a pop off tester at the boat that I use for setting up that engine. Is there a specific pop off pressure for a Stihl Walbro carb? I can go to the boat tomorrow late.

Also, is the inlet lever for the needle supposed to be level with the shoulders? I've seen some where it is supposed to be level with the bowl but that would let more fuel in than the way it's set now.

 

[huskihl]

I think it's still flooded. Can you open the throttle and choke completely and pull it 5 times? And make sure the chain brake isn't on. Don't ask.......

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Is the fuel fresh? Air filter clogged?

 

[junkman]

Is the fuel fresh? Air filter clogged?

No. I blew it out with air. Also tried starting without the filter installed. I'm thinking carb because the plug will fire even with the gap increased to 1/4" for test purposes. I'll have to dig in & make sure that the needle is seating and that there are no air leaks out of the gaskets. Will also recheck the little orifices to make sure that they're clear. It's apparently something simple that I've overlooked.

 

[HarleyT]

Take off the muffler and look at the piston.

 

[PES+]

Have you checked to make sure ths crankcase is not loaded with fuel?

They can do that stored long periods of time.

Just flip it over with the plug out and pull it over a few times to rule it out?

 

[junkman]

Now I'm really confused. I ran into a friend of mine that used to own a small engine shop. The saw has a new carb kit. We confirmed that the lever for the fuel inlet is correct by using a gauge he had. We used a plug tester and got a orange diffused spark, poured gas through the spark plug hole & never got a hit. My friend said that were the saw in the shop, he would install a coil. I bought 1 from Lil Red Barn. They confirmed that it is the correct coil. The saw still won't hit regardless of what fuel I've used.

We can feel plenty of compression. I've pulled the cord many times with the plug out to clear anything in the cylinder. There is only 1 key way for the flywheel. The key is the one that the saw has run on before and is not buggered up. I've had the coil/fly wheel gap set at 1 business card. I have a brighter blue spark with the new coil. I'm going to try new gas but the gas that is there was bought during the time I've been messing with this.

I'm really just reporting since you can't see the saw & diagnose over the web but this is very strange. I would say frustrating but I've decided not to care and will figure it out.

 

[Rx7man]

Sometimes when i have a badly flooded 2 stroke I'll wash it out with a bunch of straight gas.. it's usually the oil that'll foul the plug, and since it's been sitting a long time there's probably lots of goopy oil in it. Then I crank it over (kill switch off, plug out) until it dries up.. maybe let it sit a while and let the spattered fuel dissipate, then warm it with a small propane torch, occasionally turning it over and blowing the torch into the cylinder to burn off that fuel.. a couple minutes of this, then put the plug in, remember to turn the kill switch back on, and they'll usually be cleaned out well enough to fire up again

When I get really cranky and desperate to start a small engine, I'll turn it over with a socket on the flywheel nut in a drill, but it's not a recommended method!

 

[HarleyT]

Look at the piston.

 

[Brushwacker]

What is your spark plug gap ? If its over .o20 that is often a problem. Try another new or known working plug at .020 if you haven't.
I didn't get if you switched to an electronic coil or another coil with points. Did you post you gapped the points with a business card ? You change the point gap, your timing changes. I believe it advances with a wider gap, if you have points may be they need gapped at the lower end of specs with a gauge. Or if you still use points are they old and worn or defective ?

 

[Rx7man]

Correct, wider point gap advances timing..

Bad crank bearings can make the timing jump all over the place too

 

[Mad Professor]

Do many people here still know how to work on points machines?

Correct gap is good, on new points. You also need them clean.

Then there is old pited points we used the snap-on flex hones to R + R................then a dial indicator and ohm meter to set the timing. You need to know BTDC timing spec

 

[Rx7man]

there might be a mark somewhere around the flywheel that should line up with a mark somewhere on the casing... I'd curse if there isn't one!

Then there is old pited points we used the snap-on flex hones to R + R...

The flex hones, I don't see how you're useing them.. did you put the stones in a vice and run the points over them to clean them up?

 

[junkman]

I thought this should be updated. I bought an OE key from the local dealer, installed it, took 2 pulls and the saw ran. Adjusted the carb, restarted it several times & thought I was done. Today it wouldn't start. I'm guessing that it is the flywheel jumping time again but perhaps not and I don't have an explanation as to why. I'll pull it back off tomorrow but at least I know that it runs when all of the current parts are in the correct place. Perhaps the key isn't the correct one or the flywheel wasn't on straight & came loose. I did torq it, tap with a small hammer & retorq.